Mirror Lockup And Dust Delete Data
John Greengo
Lesson Info
21. Mirror Lockup And Dust Delete Data
Lessons
Class Introduction
12:55 2Photo Basics
04:03 3Basic Camera Controls
03:33 4Exposure Modes
20:29 5Top Deck Additional Features
05:29 6Exposure Bracketing
04:14 7Exposure Compensation Metering And Flash
18:50 8Viewfinder
12:31Live View And Movie Mode
23:52 10Autofocus Area
10:16 11Quick Menu
03:48 12Play Back
06:13 13Memory Cards
06:33 14Left And Right Of Camera Features
04:48 15Bottom And Front Of Camera Features
03:23 16Lenses
07:35 17Shooting Menu
10:45 18Lens Aberration Correction
04:31 19Multiple Exposure And Image Type
07:06 20ISO Speed Settings And Noise Reduction
10:22 21Mirror Lockup And Dust Delete Data
03:43 22External Speedlite Control And Anti Flicker
06:36 23AF Method Shutter And Metering
04:45 24Movie Menu
11:36 25AF Menu
23:09 26Playback Menu
07:43 27Setup Menu
24:13 28Custom Functions Menu Part 1
14:28 29Custom Functions Menu Part 2
19:48 30My Menu
05:04 31Camera Operation
09:47Lesson Info
Mirror Lockup And Dust Delete Data
Next up is mirror lockup and so, we have disable, we can enable it, we can also put the mirror down when press the set button. So, let's talk a little bit about mirror lockup. So, the SLR has a mirror that needs to get up and out of the way when you shoot a photo. When it gets up and out of the way very quickly, it causes a vibration that might vibrate, move the camera, and cause blurriness in your photos right when the shutter is firing. This'll be most common when you're shooting on a tripod with a relatively slow shutter speed. With mirror lockup turned on, it changes the way your camera works. What happens now when you press the shutter release is the mirror will pop up, you'll get the same vibrations, but you wait a few seconds for them to dissipate, and then you fire the camera again while there is no movement and no vibrations and you will get a sharper image. And so, this is a good safety thing to do when you are shooting landscape photography, product photography, architectura...
l photography and you're at slower shutter speeds. Now, because you don't actually wanna be pressing the shutter release itself that's when you wanna be using the cable release that TC-80N3 and that will allow you to fire the camera without touching the camera. And if you think I'm being a little bit picky and neurotic about vibrations in the camera, let me show you an example of this camera not being in mirror lockup causing a problem. And so, shooting a picture here of the Space Needle at an eighth of a second from a tripod, a good tripod, that mirror causes a vibration which causes a loss of sharpness in the photograph. How much sharpness did we lose? Well, let's look at the sharper version of that image used with mirror lockup. It can have a huge impact, especially at these slower shutter speeds in what I call the vibration zone. And so, this is gonna peak out at around an eighth of a second. It depends a little bit on your set up, but can happen all the way up around 30th of a second and down to one second. You don't have it at the other extremes either because the shutter speed is so fast or because it has time to fade out during that particular amount of time. It settles out in a ten second exposure and it's not a problem. And so, in and around an eighth of a second, from a tripod, you're gonna wanna be using mirror lockup in many cases. Normally, it's gonna be disabled though. Next up is dust delete data and so if you are taking photographs that look like this that have lots of black spots or streaks on them, that may be because, may be because by dust on the sensor which is blocking light from getting to the sensor. What you can do beyond the automatic cleaning, beyond the manual cleaning of the camera, is you can electronically clone that data out by photographing a white sheet of paper so that you're camera has a good, clean view of where all the data is and then using the Canon software to have that information applied to an actual photograph so it just clones over that data. Now, in order to use this, you're gonna need to use the software that comes from Canon on their EOS Digital Solution Disk. There's a piece of software on there called the Digital Photo Professional and that's their editing software. And, some people use that and if you wanna use this particular feature of it, you'll have to use that particular software to make it work.
Class Materials
Ratings and Reviews
Fred Innamorato
John does a great job as usual. He provides so many visual aides and demonstrations which really helps you understand how to operate and set up your camera. His step by step explanation of the entire menu and each tab is excellent. In addition to his many photography tips and instructions. What an excellent class and a great value for all the detailed instructions provided. Much better than the manual you get in the box. Plus you get to watch this as many times as needed. I highly recommend this course and all of John's other classes.
Joe Berkeley
I quite enjoyed John's course on the 1DX mark ii. To be frank, I should have taken it 122,000 shots ago when I bought the camera. I learned quite a bit. There were only a few occasions when I thought my cranium could explode. But I walked away from the course with some great tips and in the grand scheme of things, the money I invest in education is always more valuable than the latest and greatest camera strap, lens, or bag. It will probably take a few months for all of the information to sink in but I'm feeling good about what I learned and the price I paid for it. All in all, a good value.
Ian Sherratt
Great video. Loved the clear explanations, great views and mixture of video and slides. Iāve read a lot of manuals and books on settings and use of various Canon cameras but this is the first time Iāve really understood the full range of functions.
Student Work
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