Lessons
Class Overview
09:24 2Photo Basics
07:09 3Top Deck: Mode Dial
27:26 4Top Deck: ISO
09:59 5Top Deck: Autofocus
09:32 6Top Deck: Flash & Focal Plane
05:42 7Back Side: Viewfinder Display
11:13 8Back Side: Live View & Movie Mode
19:52Back Side: Auto Focus and Quick Menu
18:28 10Left & Right Sides
05:43 11Bottom & Front of Camera
23:38 12Shooting Menu: Page 1
14:38 13Shooting Menu: Page 2
08:02 14Shooting Menu: Page 3
12:28 15Shooting Menu: Page 4
08:14 16Shooting Menu: Page 5
02:18 17Shooting Menu: Page 6 & Secret Menu
09:42 18Playback Menu
06:01 19Setup Menu
22:28 20Custom Functions Menu
28:13 21My Menu
04:23 22Camera Operation
10:40Lesson Info
Shooting Menu: Page 4
Okay, page four, first up is the intervalometer, so Canon has thankfully put in an intervalometer, they're a little bit behind the game with everyone else, but they finally put an intervalometer in the camera, and this is gonna enable us to shoot a photo every given period of time. And so you can press the info for detail set and you can go in and say how long of interval, every 10 seconds, or 20, or 30, or however long you want, and then you can have as many shots as you want. How many shots do you wanna go? And so this can be a lot of fun if you take these images and then turn 'em into a video, and let me give you a couple of examples, this is one of my favorite, this is from Mount Hood, down in Oregon. Now I did have one little extra thing goin' for me here, I was using the camera on a motorized slider, and so that was getting the movement from side to side. Another one of my favorite is from India, and here the slight zooming back was done in post production, I had more than enough...
resolution in the camera, so I was using a little Ken Burns effect to zoom back on this one here. And so these are pictures taken every 10 to 20 seconds. And you'll end up with a large collection of images that you kinda want to set aside to process in some sort of video type program so that you can create your movie from all the individual images, and so a lot of different, fun things that you can do with that. The bulb timer, we talked about this earlier in the class, when we're leaving the shutter open for longer than 30 seconds, it's really as long as you ever want the shutter release pressed down, and so it's any time one second or longer, and so, once again, info detail set will allow you to go in and set the specific time on how long you want the shutter open. I'll warn you that leaving the shutter open for long periods of time is probably not good for the camera sensor, and so I would not leave it open for two hours pointed at the sun. I think that would probably be very damaging to your camera. Even leaving it on for more than about 15 minutes could potentially be damaging to the camera because the sensor is heating up, and there's only so much heat dissipation that this camera can handle, and for most nighttime exposures, it's pretty rare that you're gonna go beyond five minutes. And so I think five minute is a reasonable limit that most people can find useful, and you'll rarely need to go beyond it, and so an example of a bulb shot would be something like this, and that's not fog, that's not mist, that's just water and waves rolling around with about a two minute exposure. So once again, a fun, nighttime mode that you're not gonna use all the time, but when you use it, it can be very interesting. Alright, anti-flicker shooting, and this is where the camera senses the brightness of a light and can time the shutter when the light is at its peak. So let me show you where this could be a problem. I found this light, and there was a painting in this tunnel, and I shot several photos, and we got image one, and notice the brightness difference as I switch these. Image two, image three, image four. Let me go back to image one, do you notice the brightness difference? I did not change a shutter speed, and I did not change the aperture when I shot those images. This is all caused by me taking the photo at what just happened to be a slightly different brightness of that light as it's flickering. So, let's go ahead and turn flicker reduction on now, and let's look at the difference between these four photographs. They're not exactly the same, you can see a very subtle difference, because these lights are a little inconsistent in how they shoot, but by turning this flicker reduction on, you're gonna be shooting at the peak brightness of these lights, and it's gonna come out consistent from one shot to the next. And so, I was a little unsure of this when this came out in the 7D Mark II, and I thought, well this might slow the performance of the camera, we should probably not use it unless we absolutely need to, and now I'm convinced, you know, you should just leave it turned on the whole time, because it doesn't really slow the performance. In theory, the seven frames a second could become six and a half frames a second, and I think the loss of a half second in frames per second is not a big deal, for the benefit of having all your pictures evenly exposed when they're supposed to be evenly exposed, and so this is something that I would just leave enabled, and you can just forget about it once you have it set here. Mirror lockup is a special function, let me go ahead and visually explain it to you. So when you press down on the shutter release of your camera to take a photo, the mirror needs to get up and out of the way, and when it does that, it hits the top of the mirror box, and it causes a shaking in the camera, right during the time that you're shooting a photograph, and so it's quite possible you could have your camera on a tripod, take a picture, and you're gonna get blur simply because of the mirror vibration going up and down in the camera. If you turn mirror lockup on, you enable it, the first press of the shutter is gonna lock the mirror up, and the mirror's gonna go up and it's gonna get the same vibration that it always has, but the shutter doesn't fire, it waits for a second press of the shutter, and you wait about three, four, five seconds, and then fire that shutter, and you're gonna get a photo when there is no movement within the camera. So you're gonna get sharper photos, in many macro, telephoto, and tripod situations where you are at slow shutter speeds. And if you think, am I being a little bit nitpicky, is this just goin' a little too far on things? Well I was shooting photos in Yosemite National Park, I was checking the results, and they did not seem very sharp to me, and then I realized, oh, I didn't have the camera in mirror lockup, and I put it in mirror lockup, and I got significantly sharper results. Now you'll find that this happens, typically, at what I call the vibration zone, it's shutter speeds around an eighth of a second, anywhere from a 60th, down to a second or two is where you'll have this problem, and it won't be much of a problem at any other shutter speeds. And so this is in the vibration zone, when you are using a tripod, a lot of times your handheld movement will absorb that sort of shock, but sometimes it kind of resonates around when using a tripod. And so, for certain types of macro photography, product photography, landscape photography, mirror lockup is a good system to use. Now I don't use it as much as I used to now that cameras have live view, and so when you put your camera in live view, the mirror is put in the upward position, it's essentially locked there, so you don't need to use this if you are using live view. So you can use one or the other. I'll use mirror lockup if I don't need live view and I'm trying to conserve on battery power. The camera's normal aspect ratio is three by two, and that is where most of you are gonna wanna leave your camera, but if you are shooting and the end goal is to have a image that has a different crop factor to it, you can have that crop factor in the viewfinder so that you can actually see what you're working with for composing your images, and so this is obviously a very special situation that you would turn on, normally it's gonna be three to two. Page five in the shooting menu, live view shooting. So the live view button on the back of the camera turns it into the live view mode, some people don't even wanna do that, they can just turn it off. The AF method, this is something that we saw when we were in live view and we pressed the quick menu to go in and change the different focusing systems. So this is kind of where it's buried in the menu system so you have two different ways to get to the same exact features. Do you wanna be able to use the back LCD to fire the shutter? And so if you don't like using that for taking the picture, you can kind of undo it and turn that particular feature off, and just use the touch screen for playback functions, or focusing, but anything but using the shutter release.
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Ratings and Reviews
Ashley McCarrick
I bought an 80D so I could have a good all-around DSLR and I was thrilled to see that John just did this class. This is my 3rd class of John's and it was just as great as the others. I now understand what each of the menu settings means and which ones are the best for me. John is an excellent instructor, no matter what your photography skill level is. Thanks, John!
Justin Brodt
Awesome class!!! First watched "How to choose your first DSLR camera" and decide on the Canon EOS 80D based on my needs and what I want to accomplish in the future. I have ordered the camera but have not recieved it yet but I still watched the class. Even though I didn't have the camera in hand I feel that I have a good understanding and feel for it already. The class is very informative and I would advise it to anyone who plans to or has purchased this camera. Great job John!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
Scott Ace Nielsen
I just purchased my Canon 80D and also this course, and I am so glad I did. It is truly a perfect virtual owners manual that I can watch any time. John Greengo is am awesome presenter and this is the second course of his that I have purchased so far. ..Well worth the cost, thank you!
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