Lessons

Lesson Info

Menu Functions: Video Shooting Menu

this next section, we're gonna be talking about video. So we need to switch our cameras into the video mode once again by pressing the mode button and the info button on the back of the camera. And then once we're in the video mode, then we can hit the menu button and hit and get into all these special video functions. Now, some of these I'm gonna go by pretty quickly because we already talked about them in the previous section on still photography. I'm gonna concentrate on things that are unique to video in here. First up is movie recording quality, which leads us into a sub menu. And in here, the first thing you could do is, of course, recording size. And in here you're gonna have the resolution frame rate in compression. There's gonna be a lot of different options. We have the option of HD full HD and four K. So if you want to shoot in the highest resolution, that's gonna be four k. There will be a crop factor later on that I'm gonna talk about. So if you want the full image area si...

de to side with lenses as faras angle of you, you'd want to be in the full HD mode for that. There are many different frame rates, and this is gonna have to do a little bit, too, what region of the world you are in and what video standard you're working with but also what you want in your video. So if you want to double the rate that has a unique look to it on its own, it's also slow down the half speed very, very easily. And some people like to be able to have that impact. There are ways that you can record at higher frame rates, but there are limitations to that in this camera, and it's not available on all settings. I'll show you some examples coming up. We also have movie frame rates of 23 98 and then the true 24 frame rate. If you want your videos to have a little bit more of a cinematic field to the look of the shutter, at least the other option is the compression option. We haven't all I option, which is a larger file size that's recording mawr information. It's individually compressing each frame so that you have very good information when you go back and edit from one frame to the next. If you're not going to be doing a lot of edit teen and you would prefer to have a little bit smaller file size in your video files, you can use the I P B compression setting in what it does essentially is. It takes objects that do not move from one frame toe another. And rather than compressing them individually, it just does a copy. And paste, you might say, works very good for subjects that are more static. If you were to do a talking head shot with a big background that's not moving, it could save a lot of file size, and you may not see any difference in the image quality at all. So choose what is most appropriate for you here. Do realize that on the four k, there is a prop of about 1.73 times, and so it's a rather noticeable Klopp crop and will make your images quite a bit more telephoto. Next up is whether you want to choose the actual rate of 24 frames that separated that out from all the others. The high frame rate on this, you can record at very high frame rates and slow it down. And so it allows for shooting at 100 and 19.9 frames per second, and it's played back at either 30 or 25 frames per second. So if you want to slow something up to see it a little bit more clearly, you can do it very, very easily. And so this is gonna be in lower resolution. And here the limitations. No auto focus, no digital limit, states stabilization and no audio. So it is kind of for very unusual and specific situations. Next up is movie cropping. And so, if you want to enable an additional crop in the movie frame, this would probably be most useful for wildlife photographers or sports photographers who would like to extend the reach of their telephoto lenses to have a narrower angle of view. Not really gonna be losing image quality here, cause we're still using those pixels in there for what you're going to shoot. And so it could be handy for some photographers, and it could be a big pain for others, depending on whether you wanted to shoot it wide angle or telephoto sound. Recording leads us into another sub menu, where you get to control a lot of the different aspects of it. You can have the camera automatically control the volume levels, or you can go in and do it yourself or completely disable it so it doesn't record sound at all. If you are manually recording it, there will be a setting here where you can go in. This isn't available in audio auto. It's only going to show up and be available when you have selected manual control for the sound. Another sub filter in here, one for controls on the wind filter. If you are in windy situations, wind buffeting the camera can make a really bad noise, and so this will control that a little bit by dampening the sound. Same thing with the attenuate er. This will dampen really loud sounds like a fireworks display, for instance, and so on. Lee used these, if necessary. Next up is the time code, and so for those of you who are working and going to be editing your images and you're gonna be working with multiple cameras, those are the people that are most likely to get into timecode. If you are wanting to just record some basic video from your camera, you're probably not gonna need to get into time code. But this is gonna help align multiple cameras that are working together in controlling the clock and the data with the video that you are recording. And so this counts up when recording versus all the time. If you want to put it in free run, average user is just gonna put it in record run that tells you how long you've been recording. If you are choosing a particular time, you could go into the start time and control inputs over what the clock is reading. And so if you want to start it at a particular time, you can do that in here. And then, of course, resetting it if you want to match it to the cameras time. Another option movie record count. And this is what is displayed when the movie is on the screen. What type of counting do you want to see? Do you want to see the time code or how long that clip is that you're watching movie play count what is displayed when the movie is in the playback option, and when you have the camera hooked up to some external device through HTM I This is going to control what the time code is added onto those movies that on that external device. In some cases you're using as a monitor, and you want to see all that information. In other cases, you want to record a clean image without any overlays. Drop frame doesn't exactly drop any frames. What it does is it. Adjust the time code labelling and sets it to other devices. And so it makes editing a little bit easier, and most people gonna want to leave that enable to make for easy editing. Next up is movie Digital I s and so digital image stabilization is generally a no no, because you start losing quality and resolution. When you do that, there are two options here where you can have it enabled and enhanced. And if you wanted to add some stabilization to your video and you don't mind a little bit of loss and resolution, a little bit of Lawson image quality, you can gain it in image stabilization. So there's a bit of a tradeoff going on, and you'll have to be the judges to whether it's worth it. And so normally you would want to leave this disabled. It would be better to use a lens that has image stabilization or some sort of gimble device to steady the entire unit that you were using. Moving on to Page two in the video shooting menu is a lens correction. We've talked about this before, but now it's applied when you are shooting video peripheral illumination. CORRECTS for darkening of the corners. Distortion correction. Corrects for white angle lenses that might have a little bit of white angle bent line distortion. Next up, we have time lapse movie. This camera can record time lapses, which is a lot of fun and could be very interesting recording a picture every 10 20 seconds and then compressing all of that into a 12th little clip. And so we can do that in camera with us. And so normally, of course, you'd leave this disabled, but you could do this either in four K or full high definition. Choose your resolution options first and most important, setting is the interval between the shots. How much time are you trying to compress? 10 seconds is a good starting time. It depends a little bit on what you are shooting. And then how many shots do you want and remembering how many frames per second you are shooting? So a lot of basic video is shot at 30 frames a second. So if you shoot for 360 frames, that's gonna give you 12 seconds of final footage. Do you want the camera to control the exposure by matching it on the first frame? I would say most people should probably be in manual exposure for most all the time lapse, unless there is a rapid light change in that. So you may need to work with that. To see which works best for your situation, I would recommend turning the screen off after each image. If you're doing a time lapse, it's gonna be very hard on the batteries, especially if you're shooting a long time lapse, and you probably don't need to look at every image that you shot after it was taken. It's better to just turn that off, conserve the battery power so that it can shoot for his long a period of time. You don't want your camera stopping mid shoot because you ran out of camera. But battery power and one more item under time lapse is, Do you want the camera to beat each time the camera takes a photo? In general, it's unnecessary. It's annoying. That's gonna waste battery power. It might be helpful in some situations where maybe the cameras in a position that you can't tell if it's still shooting. And so in those situations that might be a good time for leaving it turned on Remote control Option. There is a cannon remote the B R E one that you can connect up using Bluetooth to trigger the cameras. So if you want to start that recording from a distance, you could use this. Or you could use the WiFi app, which is free, by the way. But if you just wanted a regular device, you could use this third page on video shooting menu deals with exposure compensation. So we've talked about the sport for if you want to make the picture a little bit brighter, a little bit darker. This is where you can do it for shooting videos for controlling the I s O speeds. We're gonna go into a sub menu here. First up is the speed that you are shooting at for your exposure. Obviously, setting this lower is better, Higher as needed according to your needs. The next up is the speed range, and this is the range that you can select from. So you probably want to have this set pretty whites, that if you need a high, I s so it's available you for you to select without having to dive back into the menu system. Next, you get to specify which range you have available in different types of shooting notes. So we have arranged for four K which once again probably want to have that in a large range. Be able to make that adjustment anytime you want. The eso auto range This one a little bit more important. If you have the cameras set to auto eso, how high of I s O. Will it go on its own and pick out the top setting that you think is of reasonable quality for what you're doing and set that in here? Then we have the same thing when used with four k, so that way you can kind of separate your four K settings differently than the other resolution. If you have slightly different needs, you notice a different image quality. You want to have it a little bit different. You could do so And then. Of course, you have another one when used with time lapse and using auto s So what is the highest isso? It'll go win Onley shooting in time lapse photography Auto Lightning optimizer This is the feature that the camera will lighten up the shadows and hold back the highlights in still photography. Not that big a deal, because if you shoot raw, this isn't gonna matter at all. But here in the movies, it's a little bit more important because it might be getting you some information that you did would not get otherwise. And so might be, ah wise investing in setting this to standard or so See what works for you. It will give you a little bit more exposure latitude to work with in post production. Same thing goes with highlight tone put priority. This is prioritizing the highlights. Now, when you do enable this, it is gonna limit what your low I eso is, and so I don't like leaving this turned on unless you know that you're actually going to need it. Auto Slow shutter. So if you're recording a movie, do you want the camera to automatically slow the shutter down to accommodate for lower light settings? If you're pretty casual and you're not too worried about your specific settings on your camera, this might be really handy. You go into a dark room the camera just by shooting in a slow shutter speed. If you're more serious about what you're doing, you probably don't want that shutter speed changing unless you make that change. So it depends on what you're doing and how serious you are about having your settings stay fixed. Where they are metering timer is how long the camera stays on and active. When you press down on the shutter release one of the nice new things about the camera and the slimmed system from Canon is it allows very precise control, and so now we have not only third stop but eighth stop control over the aperture. And so one of the things that's very important in video it's not quite as important. Instills is getting a very exact brightness amount. You might be matching this with another camera that's shooting, and you want to make sure that the levels air just right. You can go in and do eighth stop adjustments on the aperture here for getting a very precise opening to control the amount of light coming in the camera. Page four with Video Shooting Menu We have our white balance, same as we've talked about in other parts of this class. But here you can have it set differently for shooting video than when you are shooting stills. And we could, of course, do our custom white balance that we talked about before. If you were you under unusual lightings, you can take a test photo and calibrate the light with the custom white balance. If you do want to adjust or tweak with the white balance that you can do so here, probably don't need to do. This is not a common setting, but it is available if you need it. Picture styles, as I mentioned before, not really important for the raw shooter, but for somebody shooting video, this is a little bit more important. This is going to determine the look of the actual video that you get in the video that you're getting out of these cameras is not raw where you can go back and make a very wide range of adjustments. It is a compressed video. There are throwing out there, throwing out information that you may not get later on. And so you'll have to decide whether you want to try to get something out of this camera that just looks pretty good on its own or something that is very flat, not contrast, that you're gonna color grade and set exactly the way you want. And so, if you are shooting a lot of footage from this that's important. You're probably gonna want to go in and do some testing to see what looks good. And so, for standard video shooting yep, standards gonna work fine. But for a more serious photographer, they might shoot it in neutral or faithful, or go down to one of the user defined modes and set it up themselves with fairly low contrast and fairly low saturation in low color tone, so that they can color great it later exactly to the parameters that they want. Canon log settings allow you to adjust the signal going out of the camera being recorded by an external device. You can set that to be eight bit or 10 bit. You can Onley record 10 bet on an external recorder, and you must be in a manual movie exposure mode for this to work. So within here we have the option of setting the log on or offer choosing eight bit versus 10. Bet the view assessed. We'll give you a nice contrast image to look at in the viewfinder, even though it is recording that very flat image. That log image to the external device. And this could just make viewing. And composing your image is a little bit simpler and easier and more realistic, but not to worry. The actual image recording is thief latter image that will be graded later. The color matrix is kind of unique. It's just matching up the color space when you're shooting video to other cinema cameras. Cannon has a whole line of very serious and expensive cinema cameras, and if you're using this to match up is part of one of those systems. You can match up the color system for that. If you need to adjust those characteristics of that color matrix. You can do so here. The HD my color space has two different options that canon uses. And if you are using these other products, you can match these. But you must have the cannon log set to 10 bit for you to have access to this particular feature. So those are your log settings, Highest eso speed noise reduction. So if you're gonna be using really high, I esos you can come in here and adjust your noise reduction. Be careful about going to hide because you can start losing detail in the edges in the fine texture areas of your subject. And then with the HTM I display, you can choose what is displayed and where do you want to see it on both of these screens? Or do you want to just going onto the monitor so it depends on if you're going to use the monitor of the camera when you are using external devices