Lessons
Class Introduction
06:16 2Two Exposures Explained: Ambient & Flash
09:13 3The Triangle: Aperture, ISO, Shutter
10:00 4Overpowering the Ambient Light
07:30 5High Speed Sync
11:26 6Shutter Priority Mode
04:13 7Manual Mode
12:24 8Color It
06:55Lesson Info
Click It, Zoom It, Remote Control It
Okay, let's talk about click it. Click it. So we have this. This is the click noise. Get your flashes. Because this is one of my favorite ah ha moments. Um, so this when you, uh if you look on the back, your camera, please do this at home. There's this, uh, zoom right here and the zoom. What that does is it matches the angle of view. In fact, I'm gonna sort of jump ahead on our clicking Zoom it slide. I want to show you the zoom first before we do the click it. So, um, let me see who can get really, really close on this. I'm gonna go over to this camera here. Had to get really, really, really close. So when you zoom your lens in and out So if you can get this right here really close when you zoom your lens in and out and you guys can try this, look at the end of your lens and then zoom your lens. What you'll see is that this element is moving inside of your flash. So can you see that in the Okay. So what's happening is the flash is matching the zoom of your lens. You might have to push...
your show to release halfway to make this work. Oh, yeah, We have somewhere that just took a picture. Their face. Nice. Hobie. So you guys see that happening? Yeah, You have to make sure you push the shutter release halfway and you can see that this is zooming out. So inside of here, there's this element to people have not done that. This element is zooming in and out and what it's doing is and this again, is why I think you should stick with Canon. Canon, Canon, Nikon Nikon Night Gone Sony, Sony, Sony, Whatever. Because a lot of stuff is happening here. Remember, the color Tim thing is telling you the zoom thing, all kinds of stuff. What's happening is, if I'm a 24 millimeters, this has to go a nice angle of uto light that if I'm at 70 millimeters, it can zoom in. It can focus that flash farther if I put a 200 millimeter lens on here so you're going to focus more so you can get more punch at a great distance because it's actually focusing the light from the flash and with the the newer flashes that matched the brand. Not only are they focusing, but they're smart enough to know the sensor size of your camera and focus it accurately for that sensor size. So what you can do is there's a button on here that's called Zoom. You can push that, and you can set the zoom manually for bouncing so you can say, Hey, bounce but bounced with a really wide angle of light or bounce with a really narrow beam of light for more punch. And so you can tell the flash how to control the output of light from its angle of you when you click it up and down. Pretty cool, huh? Yeah, there's another. Click it. So get clicking. Going up right All these clicks click, click, click, click and it stops right? But no, there's more if you push. Listen to this. It's a little teeny click of the very end. Little teeny extra click. Barely there. Okay, not all flashes have these. Okay. Not all flashes have these. The 5 80 x to the 600 does the SB 900. I think the sp 800 the 9 10 has this just little teeny click the very end. And on this camera on this flash and on Nikon flashes, there's this little warning. Sometimes it's like everything flashing. There's this little guy here flashing. It's saying, Hey, you have the extra little click on that extra little clique is if you're shooting something really close, okay? You're getting really close to somebody you want to take a picture and there, six feet away, four feet away, three feet away. Something like that. A flower, whatever. That's your way of telling the stupid flash. Hey, we're really close. So ninja take it easy. That's what you're saying. Take it easy, ninja. When you do the pre flash, take it down a few notches and we're gonna expect that we don't need so much to come back. And it's gonna make sure that this understands that we're really trying to shoot something really close, so that extra little teeny click there can really save you some pain. Also, if you don't know that, click is there and you've accidentally click that and you're trying to shoot something 10 feet away. It's a world of hurt because your flashes going, you told me. Take it easy. Okay, that's the extra click. Let's talk about, um, this other thing. It's not on here. It's the focus. Focus, the auto focus. So one of the things that you can get and I don't know this will show up here on this really, really low light, But we'll see if it will. It is not going to show up. We cant see if you do this at home, you can, uh, if you pulled your hand in front of your flash, you can actually see if there's not a lot of light, a red little square that shows up in front of your flash. And what's happening is there is an auto focus assist being that's being shot out so normally. How your lens focuses have your camera focuses is it looks for contrast. It looks for things like lines like this that are very, very contrast. You white dark, quite dark, and it can click onto those. That's why when you focus your looking for edges, glasses, hair, stuff like that, that's how you can focus. If you have something that's just like this, there's no contrast. It's just sort of no difference from the dark and light cameras have a really tough time focusing in low light when the light drops. What happens is the contrast everywhere drops. And so your camera has a really tough time focusing because there can't see. Just like you can see, you can see it. So what an auto focus assisted being does on your flashes doesn't send out a big, bright beam of light by. You know, there are cameras that do that. This actually sends out a beam of light that's infrared, and it measures the distance between the flash and object and tells that to the lens. And then that just focus is based on distance, sort of like a bat's radar, right? And so it's really, really fast, and it works. Terrific. Now, one of the things that you'll find out if you have your focus mode into in a continuous focus mode, it doesn't work, because if you put this on continuous focus and you try to focus if that beam was always on, it's gonna run your batteries down and so on. Most cameras, if you have it on a I servo ai focus or on continuous focus on a Nikon, are other brands that little beam doesn't work. So it's just on a single focus mode. That's if it's not working for you. And you're like, Why doesn't it work? Check your focus more. That's probably what did this. Okay, last but not least today, A preview of tomorrow and that is remote control it all right? Now, there are a lot, and I mean a lot of different ways to take your flash off your camera and control it. I'm Lee. Walk through the Nikon canon way. So on your canon camera, there's a little button. It's got a little flash. There might be something that says Slave Master, it might say, um uh, this guy right here there is master and slave in remote control. There's all different words for that. So on a 5 80 x to let me show you how this works. 5 80 x to you Push and hold the zoom button. And when you dio you're gonna get this little thing that starts flashing, says Master. And once it just yeah, and if it says off, that's okay, because let me push this again because you can roll this and change it between off Master slave and some other things. So we're gonna go into detail on this tomorrow. But you can put this on, master. And now this flash on your camera can control other flashes if you put it on slave. So I'll put this. Hold that down. Put it on, slave. Now, what will happen is that flash on your camera is controlling this. We can also do things like put it on a channel and set it to his own So you can have one that's on Zone A and one on Zone B and you can control those independently. That sort of what I did with that picture that just went away or that picture over there. We said we want a little bit more light filling the surroundings with less light in the front so we can do all that kind of stuff. So that's on a cannon there all sorts of things that you can do by just pushing the zoom button and holding it in. You concede the channel in the slave. This is one of those things that is vastly different based on your flash and brand. So if I went through how to set this up for every single, uh, flash, we would just never go home. So that's how you do it on a 80 x to let me quickly show you How do you do it on an SB 900? One of these things that I love about Nikon Flashes. It has a switch that says on. Then it has a switch that says remote. Okay, I know pretty easy, huh? But what if you want this to be the master, then you flip it over to master, that's it. And then you can control. So I think in the space of, uh, controlling external speed lights and the ability to dive into your speed light and turn the custom functions on and off and really see what's happening with your flash. And I think most photographers that you speed lights would agree with me. Nikon speed lights are far superior.
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