Lessons

Lesson Info

1:30 pm - Live View and Movie Menu

So we're going to the next tab in the next two tabs deal with live view shooting so the camera works definitely in a different mode when we're working with the screen on the back of the camera especially the focusing system so that's one of the I mean things that were going to do so first off some people just never ever want to use live you and they want to disable the button on the back of their camera you can do so but I think it's a very handy feature to use from time to time especially with this camera because we have the flip out screen so that you can use this for low angle shooting you can use it for high angle shooting it's very handy to have that screen that flips around so I would leave it enabled the auto focus method this is the one that we have the many different options on I am not a big fan of face tracking but I can understand situations where it does make a lot of sense if you have a single person in front of you and you were wanting to focus photograph them and you wa...

nt their face in focus the camera can identify and track the focusing of that face and it does so in a pretty good, pretty pretty pretty good manner if you have multiple faces in this scene if there at the same distance things were work out pretty well if they're different distances it's generally going to choose whatever is closest to the camera and so it might work for some people in some situations I think the flexi zone single or multiple is a better choice, so with single you get to choose one small box on frame this is my favorite mode and then you can select using a little tap key in the back where you want that box with the multi it's using a much larger areas using a thirty one zone area thirty one points, nine areas and it's kind of going after bigger groups of areas if something was really filling the frame, then I would maybe go with multiple but for general purpose I leave it at single the last mode in the list is the quick mode and what this does is once the mirror the camera is in live you it pops the mir backdown uses the traditional phase detection system for focusing and then flips the mirror back up. What I don't like is that you can't see what you're focusing at at the time you're focusing and it's a very jarring thing to have your mere move up and down while you're trying to focus so play around with the four see which one works for you I think a good one to start with is the single next up is continuous auto focus so when your camera is in live, you do you want the camera to continually focus back and forth whenever the cameras turned on? If you're trying to take pictures, it might be a way that you don't have to press down on the shutter release, but the problem is, is it does burn through the battery's pretty quickly in some ways, because it's constantly focusing in that regard and I think it's just a z z to press halfway down on the shutter release, but it's there for a reason you'll know if you need it, but in general, I would leave it disabled touch shutter. What this does is it allows you to touch the back screen to fire the shutter, and some people don't want to have the camera fire when they touch the shutter, but other people love the touch screen, and you would want to leave it enabled I'm I'm a moderate fan of the touch screen, and I would leave it enabled because you can pick a point, you can focus on it and you can fire the picture just by touching the screen, so it gives you another option for firing the shutter release if you're ah fumble fingers and you're hitting stuff all the time that you could turn it off next up. He is we have what's called a grid display if I get this up on screen here there we go great display and so when you're looking through the live you do you want to see a grid over laid on your image? Once again, we've talked about this before really nice for architectural work for landscape work I tend to like to leave my image as a clutter free as possible, so I tend to want to keep keep these type of things turned off now the sensor in this camera has what's known as a three by two aspect ratio, which is the height versus whip size on this and that's generally what you're going to want to record when you are shooting pictures. However, you can change it to four by three or six by nine, which is the format of hdtv or you could shoot square images and the advantage here is that you get to see right in the camera's lcd screen on the back of the camera what the height thin with of your image that you're going to shoot and so in general most people are going to want to change it around, but if you know the final output of your photograph, these can be handy for help help visualize the exact framing of your subject next up is exposure simulation and I would leave this on enabled what happens then is as you change shutter speeds and apertures manually the back of your camera the screen on your camera will get darker or brighter that mimics what the final picture is going to look like if you're working in a studio with studio lighting and flashes that are going to fire, you don't want to use this but that's kind of the exception for everyone else you can look at the back screen of these cannon cameras and be a real good judge is this picture over exposed or underexposed discreet displays or that accurate on the back and in many cases I will judge an exposure not by the light meter by just by how bright it is and I know that's not the best technique but these cameras they're so good that that does actually work all right so let's dial on over to the second tab in the live you shooting than you and we have an option in here and it gets a little goofy in here let's bring in the extra information for most people I can tell you right now mode one is going to work just fine what happens here is camera uses an elektronik first shower curtain which means it's very quiet and there is no vibration which is really quite nice for anyone doing macro photography or a landscape photographer so you put your camera in live you the mirror goes up the shutter opens up and it initiates the photograph with an electronic shutter. The big downside to choosing mode one is that you will not be able to fire a flash offer your camera and so if you are working in the studio and you like using live you you want to disable this feature there is also a mode to which holds back the return of the mere until you release your finger off the shutter which could be a way of shooting pictures and being very, very quiet if you were going to shoot a picture, be very quiet and you'd have to hide the camera well it makes the extra noise of the mere moving back into position, so I think for most people mode one if you're working in a studio I would set it to disable metering timer so when you press down on the shutter release, how long is your camera? Actively meet oring the light sixteen seconds is the default time you can shorten it you khun lengthen it sixteen seconds I think it's fine for most people. All right, we're going to jump straight on into the movie setting section and so in order to do this, you need to flip that collar over to the movie mode and then hit the menu button to kick back into the menu and you'll see that the little icons up there have changed from live you two moving moment and there's a lot of things in here that are going to be exactly the same that we just talked about for the last three minutes or so, and the difference is is that when you go into the movie mode, you can have option a and when you're in live you, you can have it at option b. So for instance, in the focusing and that's, the first item that comes up here is the focusing is you can have your camera focus one way in live you you can have it do it another way in the movie mode, and so if you like face tracking in the movie mode but flexes own single in live you, you can completely separate those two features. And so once again in the movie mode, I don't like focusing while I'm recording video I focus before the shot is taken. I do the quick little shot and went to a lot of long cuts, and then I'll focus reed again for the next shot after I'm done with the first one. Now, if you're shooting something long in time, you may need to change focus, in which case you would be refocusing, but the camera doesn't focus very fast and smoothly, so be aware that it's not a camcorder even though it's got the duel pixel seem a sensor on it movie servo a f now, this kind of goes to what I was just talking about focusing during the exposure during the recording of the movie mode, and so do you want to be able to adjust focus while you are shooting? The more advanced users definitely don't want to do it at least automatically, to the cameras, so they're going to disable it if you're just more of mom and pop shooting your kids and it's pretty simple, and it doesn't really bother you that much, that it goes out of focus for a quarter of a second, then you could leave it on enable, and it will constantly readjust so that you don't have to manually focus depends on once again as we talked about earlier how much auto control versus manual control you like to have in your camera? Silent live you shooting? This is what we just talked about a moment ago. I'd recommend mode one if you decide to take a still picture while you are in the movie mt. Next up on this. So movie shooting menu number two if you have it in the movie mode, do you want to see the grid? You saw the grids before once again. Leave it off. Leave it clutter free unless you really need it for something. All right, this is one that's actually pretty important. This is the movie recording size, and so in here you'll be able to choose the frame rate as well as the dimensions of pixels thatyou are recording. Most people are going to want to record in the full hd, the largest quality setting possible. And I think for the basic consumer, I think the nineteen twenty at thirty frames a second using the I p b compression system is going to be perfectly suitable for day to day. For me, you're not going to get overly large video files, which you have no use for. If you are going to be doing critical editing, you want toby, get it editing to the frame, the exact frame and have it easy to work with. Then you would want to choose thie all I option. The all I option would mean your files are about three times larger in size than the I p b formula, so choose accordingly. And if you have any desire to play something back and see it in slow motion, then you might want to look at some of the sixty frames per second option, albeit it is at a slightly lower resolution. Next up is digital zoom. Now, normally, digital zoom is something you avoid like the plague. You do not want digital zoom, but digital zoom on this camera works a little differently, so here's a visual for you. The full sensor area on your camera is five thousand four hundred seventy two pixels by three thousand six hundred and forty eight pixels. When you shoot video, it records an area that is pretty much the full frame, with a little letter boxing at the top and bottom, and it reduces the size of that down to nineteen twenty by ten eighty. When you employ the digital zoom, it simply looks at the middle nineteen hundred twenty pixels by one thousand eighty pixels, so there is no reduction or magnification of the image in any way. You're getting really good, clean, clear information, albeit in a very telephoto system. So if you wouldn't want to record telephoto video, digital zoom was a great way of magnifying your telephoto lens by about three times without any cost in quality and so it's the same image quality, just a much, much narrower field of view, not something you would normally leave turned on, but something you could turn on with very good effect sound recording the camera will automatically pick up sound and automatically adjust levels accordingly and for those who want to get in and do professional quality video you'll probably want to go in to manual recording because you can go in here manually set the levels you can go in you khun just wind filters on the built in mike so it picks up sound a little bit differently and tries to reduce some of the wind noise as well next up for anyone who enjoys high and video you're going to know more about this than I do probably which is time code and this is when you want to synchronize your camera with another device sometimes it might be another camera it might be an external audio recorder and you want to synchronize what's happening here with what's happening in that other device and so you'll be able to go into time code and run into this other sub menu it's a little bit of a rabbit hole in here as to what type of time it shows you doesn't show you the time of day doesn't show you a number that starts at zero you can have it control a number of areas that we're not going to get into because it's actually fairly high end video stuff and most of you who know about that stuff we're gonna know exactly where you want it set if you're an average consumer this is of no concern at all they want to see is just the recording time as your years you're doing this and so moving on video snapshot this one I don't understand, I know how it works, but I don't understand it. I think it's something that is popular in japan and just doesn't translate well here. What it does is it records video in a limited to four or eight second burst that's it so your video will only be four seconds, for instance, and it can't be any longer, and it can't be any shorter and have fun with it. Enjoy. I haven't used it yet on the camera, but I would probably leave it it disabled, you know, this might be a good time at taking a few questions. There is a question earlier. You know again, a lot of these questions, john, are sort of like throughout the morning and nish akane wanted to know about recommendations for filters, and I know it's not part of our menu system. But do you do you use filters? And do you recommend people use filters with stuff camera? Well, there's, different types of filters and let's just generally categorize them into two categories. There's protection filters and then filters that change the light. And so filters that changed the light, like a polarizing filter is something that's very valuable that serves a purpose very well, I think she might be getting to the uv filters. And that's, one of those hot bed debates that will have a lot of photographers arguing about what's the correct technique, some photographers will say, I got lots of money, I could buy all the ones I want if I drop this landslide cracked this lands, I get this front elements dirty, I don't care, I'll just go out and buy a new lands, and so if you have lots of money and you want the best image quality, don't put any filters on your lenses. Yeah, you said, I don't know that I could go up by another thousand dollars lens at the drop of a hat I want to protect the front of the lens from excessive cleaning or dirt or dust or anything else that might come around ah, uv protection filter is a very easy way to protect the front of berlin's it's, an insurance policy in many cases, and I do use good quality uv filters on pretty much all my lenses because I don't like using lens caps, and so I put my lens with no lens cap right in my bag and I have a uv filter on it in case there's something in there that might scratch it and it has simplified my life quite a bit because I never worry about lens caps, I've never lost a lens cap, I don't worry about landscapes and I just have the uv filter on there. They get dirty from time to time when I clean it off, don't worry about it, and after about, I don't know, five or ten years of cleaning, it gets scratched, and I get a new unity filter, and you'll find other people that think I'm absolutely nuts. And they're probably right. But it works for me.