Finishing the Ring with Patina & Polish
Bonnie Heras
Lessons
Lesson Info
Finishing the Ring with Patina & Polish
Now on my design over here we have to finish is we have a patina and a polish both things that we've already spoken about today at least she can reference the other classes for that information I will talk about it briefly though so may notice that the actual line structure here in this piece also has a patina in it so I and when you're going to do a combination of finishes you're going to start with a patina because as you may remember when we're doing a patina you drop it into the liver sulfur chemical the whole piece gets black and so if I pre polish this and then decided that okay that I might add a patina my whole polish is gonna get covered if I did that if I did it out of order so you do the patina first take off the material now since I know I'm in a polish it later I'm going to go through all my standing steps as it before so that's the two twenty three twenty four hundred to six hundred um now let me show you how to clean the inside and the outside of your ring really quick w...
ell that's sitting in the pickle um since we have our other ring here safety glasses safety first so we're not polishing at the moment so like to take this out of here grab our split mandrell now when you're prepping tio doing any file detail? We're clean up on your ring itself. You can use your flat file here, tio, clean up the outside. You can use your half round needle filed, which is, or your double sided rounds that's, another one you confined in one of these sets. If you purchase of set and see that it surrounded on both sides and that's for kind of filing the inside of your ring and see here you want to do a rock motion. Now this particular wire stock already had a smooth edge, but sometimes it can be a little sharp, because when you do a little cleanup on your piece, you can be. He might need to stand this edge, let's say, when you saw that it didn't meet up quite right, then you can stand it. You couldn't take a piece of sandpaper and tape it to the table top. We can use your standing stick and then just see ended on edge like that. You can see how it's starting to kind of take down that that joint there's, you can hide it. Well, ideas of all about hiding it what's look flawless in the end how did you do that? How is it connected? It looks so perfect. Well, it's no secret so and you do it by cleaning up they actually see there it's practically gone you see they can see a little bit of hair of it right there with that joint is but it's almost gone and then I would go through what steps? The thing though is that that starts to sharpen this edge here on the inside so if you want to do the comfort fit we're gonna go back to the half around file I was just talking about and you're gonna file inside just in an angle like the bevel edge so I'm not going straight on like this I'm angling my file rocking it back and forth so that it creates a nice curve comfort that you could really go to town on it into a strong bevel that's what used their scenery? Things that have come into dome effect on the inside that's a really dramatic comfort if it and it feels really great when you put it on and you can file it down that way if you'd like but just to clean it up so it's not going to cut your finger when you put your finger on or scratch your finger I should say there you go all the way around like that so on the outside of the ring you can use these standing sticks as I've mentioned before and go through all the grits this basically why you mounted on the paint sir here any flat surface it just allows you to maintain a flat surface on the medal that way because your fingers can create david's if you're actually going over that area multiple times and you can see here it'll create a knife smooth area like that and so to be a consistent finish so using the split man role again waken slipped this in here safety glasses on start with our to twenty sandpaper and work our way down now this slips in here noticed the width of this so this could actually be trimmed down so sometimes if it ends up being too why when it gets cut I'll just like rip it like that because it will flop in the wind if you will, you know? But when I get what if it's not if it's too long and getting away and sometimes I'll hit your finger so you want to make sure that it kind of sits on the manual itself, so placing on the inside make sure it's properly supported and then you're going to just kind of do a circular motion like that I'm gonna angle it a little bit and hit that beveled edge I just did just to maintain that switch sides all the way around like that, and you could see it starts to get a nice, smooth edge on the inside the quick way. Jin the inside, you can use that on the outside, but honestly, if you're not really, like, skilled with affleck shaft it's, a curved tool that's on a curve surface, if you're not gripping this properly in a roll into your hand, so that's, why I always suggest using sanding sticks because I was have that question. Oh, why it's so fast, why can't we use it? And I'm like god's. Great, trust me, but you really need to be a feel comfortable with the tool before you go there. So that would be the cleaning prep that you need to do on the surface of everything else. And then you would, um, do your patina. You would do your polish, and then you would set your stone.
Class Materials
Ratings and Reviews
user-305b18
The content was good but could not see some of the techniques. Maybe use of the overhead camera positioned over the work space would have helped. Overall a good class.
Maggy Mason-Hughes
The instructor was excellent but the camera work was not! This is a detailed technique, suggest the camera person get an idea of what they are filming and do better close ups of the important techniques. If I didn't know a bit about bezel setting, this video would rate very poorly. For those that are new to this, I'm sure they missed a lot by not having the correct close ups / over shoulder shots. Maybe refilm those and insert into the class course?