Lesson Info
9. Front of Camera
Lessons
Class Introduction
13:59 2Basic Camera Controls
02:51 3Top of Camera
32:21 4Back of Camera
29:57 5Live View Menu
22:14 6Movie Mode Menu
09:03 7Left & Right Sides of Camera
16:38 8Bottom of Camera
05:44Lesson Info
Front of Camera
Next up is the Function 1 button. And so this is a button that you get to program to do whatever you want, and right now, it's not programmed to do anything by just pressing on the button. But there's a lot of buttons on this camera that you can program to do something while you press the button AND turn the dial. So right now, this is choosing the image area when you press down on the button and turn the dial. So let me give you a little live demo here of this. So in order to do this, what I'm going to do is throw my camera into the live view mode. And we're going to be changing the image area, so what I'm going to have to do is I'm going to have to reach around the front of the camera and press the preview button and turn the dial, let me make sure I have this turned on, and it's not working right now because I'm in the video mode. That's why that doesn't work, so let me try it in the live view mode. There we go. Okay, so we have, as you can see up here in the right hand corner, we h...
ave the FX, which we are getting the full frame from side-to-side. And as I'm pressing in on the button in front and turning the dial, I've gone to a 1.2 crop, so if you want just a little bit of a crop you can get that. We have our DX crop, five by four, which is the same aspect ratio as eight by ten. A lot of people use that format for framing and so forth. And then we have a one by one square, so if you want to see what life looks like square, you can just put it here. But I think most of you are going to leave it there in the FX mode. You will also see this information when you look through the view finder itself as well. And so this is something that can be reprogrammed in many different ways, and we will talk more about in the menu section where we get under the customizing the button control on the camera. So if you do want to jump ahead and do it, it's under the F1 controls, custom control assignment. Over on the other side of the camera we have a couple more rubber doors which allow us more ports and things that we can plug in. We have our flash sync, so if you want to use your camera with traditional flash equipment that uses that old sync system, it's got that on there to trigger the flash at the right time, and it can do so at 1/250th of a second or less. Next up we have Nikon's 10-pin remote, and this is going to be used with a variety--a large variety--of different remote control devices. So if you just want to trigger your camera, and you're on a tripod, the MC-36 will do a good job at it. It's actually got a few extra features that you may not even need on this particular camera. If you want the most basic one, the MC-30A will do a good job of just allowing you to trigger it, and also to lock it in if you wanted to do a bulb exposure for a long period of time. If you want an extension cord, if you need just a little more space between you and your camera, there is an extension cord that you can get. There's an adapter cord that you can use older, different cords as well, which is going to be the MC-25 that goes from a 2-pin to a 10-pin connector, and then there's also a remote cord with banana plugs so that you can create your own triggering device. If you wanted to hook it up to a foot pedal or a sound device, or laser system, or something else, you can figure that all out on your own with that banana cord system. You can also hook up Nikon's own wireless adapter, and so you'd plug in the WR-A10, and then for your triggering device you'd have a little handheld remote. And if you want a flash to be fired simultaneously, you would use the WR-R10 on that. And if you want, you can get a whole kit of all three of them purchased together so that you can trigger your camera, your flash all together and you can hook this up on multiple devices if you want. Nikon has another infrared remote control system that they still have in their system, the ML-3 Control Set, and you'll have one set that plugs into the 10-pin remote and clips onto the top of the hutch of the camera, and then you'll have a remote that works 10, 20, 30, 40 feet away. It doesn't work real well over great distances because it's just an infrared system. You can also hook up a GPS unit to it. The GP-1 will allow you to add GPS information to the metadata of your photographs, or you can hook up your own special GPS unit and plug it in with the MC- adapter cord. We have a little white mark that lets you know where to align your lenses for mounting, lens release button there, nice and large, easy to get to, there's a lens locking pin and you'll hear that spring into position when you have mounted your lens and fully turned it the way you're supposed to. There are a number of CPU contacts on the body and on the lens, so you want to make sure they're not broken or obscured in any way. That's how it's communicating, focusing and aperture information back and forth. This camera is outfitted with an AF Drive Shaft, which will allow you to use older, pre-AF-S lenses with the camera, and so all the way back to 1986, you can use all the original auto-focus lenses on this camera. There is a little focusing tab upon top which will actually meet up with the Meter Coupling Lever on the older manual focus lenses, and so on this camera they've built a number of devices so that you can use much older lenses. And so if you want to use many of the older lenses, you can't use lenses all the way back from the early-early days without the indexing mark on them, but any of the more current manual focus lenses from the more current '70s and '80s, you'll be able to use them on this camera as well. And so great, great ability of this camera to utilize a very large span of lenses. This is about as close as we get to the sensor, and so I'll just mention that it's a 45 megapixel sensor on it, full frame sensor in size, it does not have an AA filter on it, and so there's a potential that you could have a great problem if you were shooting a fine fabric or a detail with a very fine weave or pattern to it, but it's doing that so you can get the sharpest photos possible and it in general will not be a problem with a 45 megapixel camera.
Class Materials
Bonus Materials with Purchase
Ratings and Reviews
Susan
This is a great class with an exceptional instructor, and I learned so much about my new D850 camera! I especially appreciated the opportunity to follow along at a perfect pace with the instructor while being hands-on with my camera. The content was understandable, logical and enjoyable. This is my first class through CreativeLive -- thank you!
a Creativelive Student
Excellent class. Very fast paced which I loved. I have had my D850 for a few months and thought I had it all figured out. I learned some awesome tips and tricks that I am eager to start using. Thanks John:-)
Francis Sullivan
82 yrs old. Been an avid photographers since 5 yrs old. Read and listened to all types of photo teachers. Greengo is the best of all. Every so called photographer can still learn from a master on the D850. Fantastic camera and fantastic teacher.
Student Work
Related Classes
Camera Guides