Custom Menu H1-H2
John Greengo
Lesson Info
28. Custom Menu H1-H2
Lessons
Class Introduction
05:29 2Camera Overview
10:21 3Photo Basics
04:10 4Top Deck: Mode Dial
16:27 5Mode Dial: Exposure Control in P Mode
06:29 6Mode Dial: Manual Exposure
08:46 7Top Deck: Shooting Modes
22:35 8Top Deck: HDR & AF Mode
05:58Top Deck: Metering and Flashes
05:57 10Backside: Viewfinder Display
07:15 11Backside: ISO Controls & White Balance
04:37 12Backside: Focus Area and Controls
06:07 13Backside: Super Menu
20:50 14Backside: Playback Menu
06:15 15Left & Right Side of OM-D EM 1 Mark II
04:42 16Bottom & Front of OM-D EM 1 Mark II
07:50 17Olympus Lenses
05:05 18Camera Menu Settings Map
03:03 19Shooting Menu 1
08:30 20Shooting Menu 2
20:18 21Video Menu
17:41 22Playback Menu
09:04 23Custom Menu A & B
22:01 24Custom Menu C1 & C2
11:24 25Custom Menu D1-D4
19:31 26Custom Menu E1-E3 & F
13:35 27Custom Menu G
04:11 28Custom Menu H1-H2
07:20 29Custom Menu I
05:04 30Custom Menu J1-J2
05:45 31Setup Menu
05:32 32Camera Operation
12:52Lesson Info
Custom Menu H1-H2
Alright, on to the H tab, for recording and erase. Card Slot Settings. So this is where we get to choose how we save images to the cards, so lets dive in if we can to the sub menu. If the clicker works. It works, yay! Alright, so here is where you get to choose, what am I saving and where do I save it to. And so I am saving standard, just to one card. It will save it to whatever you want there. You can do it auto switch, where it switches from one card to the next. And what I would do, is I would use card one as your primary card slot, and card two as your overflow or where your second or your slower or smaller card is going. And so auto switch is for one card. Dual Same, with the arrow pointing down will record images to both cards, identically in there. You can choose which slot you are saving to. So, if you did only want to use card slot two. Let's say card slot one malfunctioned on your camera, well then you can specify that you want everything to go into card slot two. Use that fo...
r whatever reasons. Remember, number one is UHS2 compatible so that is the better, faster, reading and writing card slot. You can choose a separate slot for shooting video. And so the card slot number one is the faster card slot, and if you're shooting 4K video or really video of any nature because that shoots with so much data you're better off using video in card slot one, and then photos to card slot two. When you're playing back an image, you can choose which slot is playing back. But, remember the short cut for that, was just simply holding down the play button, and turning one of the dials. This may not be available if you have only one card in the camera or if you have the dual independent same selected, you may not see this option. Because, you're looking at images from both card, basically. If you want, you can create new folders. So if you have a folder say of personal images on the memory card, you can create a new folder, where all of the business images are going to go, or different projects. But, you can separate things on the memory cards, by either assigning them to an existing folder, or creating a new folder on the camera. So, it's just like being on a computer and creating a folder for information to go into. Next up, File name. The camera will automatically name the files as it creates them and it has 10,000 count that it will go through. If you want it to reset to zero, you can. It normally just counts up to 10, and then resets itself automatically. If you don't like the file name, those letters in front of the file system, you can change that to, perhaps your initials, or something like that. So if you want to get in there and change it, it is slightly different for SRGB vs. Adobe RGB, because they use slightly different file naming structures, but you can do that if you want to right in the camera. When you are printing from the camera, you can control the DPI settings. Not real important, but for printing purposes, a lot of people like printing at 300 DPI. Will only be important if you do actually plan to hook up a printer to your computer. This is really cool. Copyright Settings. This is what allows you to put your name on your camera. And so if you turn this on, your name, or your copyright creator information will show up in the metadata of the camera. So it's potential, if your camera was stolen, and somebody shot photos with it, and posted it online, you could just pull up the file data, and you could see that it's your camera. Might even be able to pull up location information about where they were, who knows. You can put in your artist name, and that's going to show up right there in the metadata. And so you can put your name, or your company name there. Copyright name, you could put additional information, like your email or your website. And so if the camera was picked up by the police, and you wanted to prove it was yours, it's a light level way. If somebody knows how to get in here and change it, they're going to get in there and change it, but most people aren't going to know about this sort of thing. It's a cool way to put that information right there into the camera, in the metadata. Lens Info Settings, so there's a number of lenses you can hook up to this camera that are not going to be read through the electronics. What you can do is, if you have an unusual camera, you can add that name and that focal length to the list and then, choose a focal length as well, the aperture value, and then you can add it to the list, and so you can select that right here, when you are using that lens and then that lenses information, will be added to the metadata. So this is not necessary with any of the modern, current Micro Four Thirds lenses from Olympus or Panasonic. All that information is already passed over. If you had some old, cool manual lens that you were adapting onto it, and you wanted that information to be part of the metadata, that's the time you would use this. Alright folks, we're getting near the end. H2 recording and erasing. The basic question that I have for you at this point is, when you delete an image, how many button presses is the correct number? Alright so, if you want to quickly erase images. For instance, the other day, I had about 40 images, that I just really wanted to get off that memory card, real quickly, but I didn't want to format the memory card. I knew that when you normally erase things, what you do is, you hit garbage, and then you gotta go up and select, yes I intended to delete this image, Yes, okay, delete that image. And so it's a lot of button pressing. And so by just going to on garbage, or the quick erase on, when you hit that garbage button, it is gone in an instant. It is gone very, very quickly. So if you're going to delete a large number of images, I recommend doing this, but I do not recommend using this for most users, most of the time, because images will get deleted too easily. There is a better option coming up in just a moment. I have no idea why it's next, but it's in a moment. Next, when you delete an image, do you want it to delete the RAW and the JPEG at the same time or just one? Most of us want to delete both versions of it, but you can adjust if necessary. Okay, this is a good one here. So this is going back to the whole, how many button presses to delete an image?. And so normally, it takes three button presses to delete an image which is too many for me. One is too little, two is just right. I like goldilocks. In this case, when you say, yes, is the default the priority of the camera setting? When you say garbage, I want to throw an image in the garbage, guess what I want to do? Yes, I want to throw it in the garbage. And so it's a little bit quicker, to get rid of your images.
Class Materials
Ratings and Reviews
a Creativelive Student
This is exactly what I was looking for - I really feel like I'm not able to control my camera, rather than the camera controlling me! :) I really learned a great deal - some of it was a great review, some of it was crucial information that will (hopefully) make me a better photographer. Thanks for a great class, John!!
Spyro Zarifopoulos
Great and very informative class.... John has done a fabulous job explaining all the simple and intricate details of the very sophisticated EM1 II. Thank you !!!
John Epperson
This is a great course on learning about the OM-D E-M1 Mark II. I have watched it many times to get to were I know it by memory the best I can. I like to go over it as much as possible because there is a lot to learn. I do wish that John would do an updated version since now it is up to Firmware 3.1. It is like a whole new camera with the new settings.
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