Actual you would find the exact same sliders that I used here to adjust this picture and so these changes could have been made in light room instead. So let's taken image that's a tip file one where if I just double click on it, it wouldn't usually open it in camera let's go to the file menu and let's say opening camera and let's use a new feature, a brand new feature that's only in the newest versions of photo shop and camera I should mention the images that I'm using here are all once that have been submitted by people at washing class these are ones were in the past have had a retouching classes and people submit images or people that work in creative live have submitted images for us to fix and that's the source of most of these there will be also be a few of my own pictures, but I just don't have a huge volume of images that need to be restored, so I'd like to use the ones you guys send in. In this particular case this image looks to be rather hazy where there's not a great deal o...

f contrast, if you look in the left side of the image I can see in the upper left some areas that are close to black but if I look towards the right side of the picture you see similar content over here but it's nowhere near black whereas if we didn't have the hazy look that's in here, this area would look just like what's in the upper left corner well, there's a new feature in the newest versions of camera raw, but I think I want to use here if I go under the f x tab in camera, there is a new slider you'll only find if you've updated your camera onto the newest versions and it's called d hayes d hayes is good any time you have an image that looks foggy as if literally was taken on a foggy day or there's just a general feeling of haziness, which is usually where the darkest part of the image is not near black and so let's see what happens if I bring up d hayes in this case as I do, you will find the darkest part of the photograph getting darker in those areas and once I bring it up there a bit, I'm starting to get some of the contrast that I think this was lacking, but now what I don't like about it is some of the color in here, but d hayes is the new feature we're going to use to fix color issues we could go to a different feature, what I'll do is in camera over here I'll go to the basic tab and that's where we'll find temperature intent they're designed for correcting color and in general, if the image looks to be two yellow I just push this away from yellow if it's to magenta I'd push it away from magenta and so on there are three different ways of adjusting your white balance one is to choose a preset from this menu and depending on what kind of file you have it's a raw file you'd find a long list here if it's j peg file you only find these choices so we can either choose a preset we can move the two sliders or in the upper left there's an eyedropper this one here the eyedropper is designed so if you confined within your image anything that should be a shade of gray in a shade of gray means any brightness level I don't care if it's near black near white or somewhere in between but what's important is the area that you would click on should not contain any color so that means they're not looking for skin tone I'm not looking for a red car anything else I'm looking for something that would contain no color regardless of how bright it is and if I look in here do you see the shoes that are being warned? Those shoes were possibly white shoes and if so have they shouldn't contain any color by moving my eye dropper onto the shoe in clicking what's going to happen is photo shop is going to look at that area and if there is any color in there let's say it looks yellowish, it'll make the entire photograph local got less yellow, last yellow intel there's no longer in a yellow in that area I clicked on, and so by clicking it might improve the image. I'm not sure, though, these shoes, though if this person was running through grass or anything like that could have some green residue from the grass brushed up on it. If they're old shoes, maybe they're starting to turn a little bit brown and so that might not be appropriate so I could look for other areas in this photograph there is a white line painted on the road I could try clicking on it. There are some wheels and tires here that I could also try, and all you're going to do is try clicking on these various areas to see if the color and the image improves as a whole then you confined to in the end result by moving the temperature intent sliders because when I was clicking with his eye dropper, all it was doing is figuring out where to move the temperature intense sliders. So if you watch those sliders and ignore what I'm doing, just look at the sliders when I click on the shoes you see him move a click on the stripe on the road you see temper insurance tent moving it's just trying to figure out what settings would cause this particular area that I'm clicking on to look neutral to have no color. So I click around in various areas that look like they might be able to be shades of gray, and if I want to, I confined to in the end result by simply moving these sliders a little. The next thing I would do in this particular image is fine tune the colors if you ever need to find tune the colors, I'm going to come up here to the various tabs in one of them is this one that's called the h s l tab and that's, where you have all these different colors that you confined tune? The main thing I'll be doing is working with a setting called saturation, and I could come in here and say that I want to have various areas become or less colorful to do that you can either move these sliders around. The problem with that is you have to guess too may what color is that skin? Is it or injures a yellow it's? Not this straightforward as to which one you could use. So is long as you have these features open to make it so you don't have to figure out which slaughter would affect various areas in the image you can go up here. And grab an icon that doesn't look very obvious if you look at this one and just click on it what that's going to do for years if you move your mouse on top of your image and you just start dragging up or down watch what happens to the sliders on the right side of my screen it figures out the right ones to move so I can say make that skin a little bit less colorful maybe make the closing clothing color a little less or more colorful and so on you know you could do this for three different kinds of changes one is called hue which means basic color so if somebody's face looks to read or to yellow that's where I go you could go to saturation which is how colorful the area is where you can go toe luminant switches how bright or dark it isthe and it's a matter of using those to figure out what you need for this particular image this is the first I'm going to take it it can look much better especially if you get rid of this area in the upper right that I'll still have some haze in it but for now I just wanted to show you that d hayes slider and then do a few more things to it we might come back to this image later to fix the upper right corner but we need to learn about more features first before, I could show you how to do that. But for now, let's, look at the before and after a ce faras. How hazy the picture was. That was the main thing. I want to show you with this particular one, because we're talking at the moment about tonal changes done.

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Ben Willmore

As a photographer, Ben Willmore has shot in all 50 states and explored over 80 countries. He has been pushing Photoshop and Lightroom Classic to their limits since the beginning.

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topics covered in this class

Fundamentals Adobe Photoshop Beginner Photo Editing

Ratings and Reviews

a Creativelive Student

Wow! That is pretty much what I thought about the course. It was my first live studio experience and it was fantastic! Ben is a great instructor because he presents the information in a straight forward manner that is understandable, detailed, and concise all at the same time. I have a couple of his other classes and the handbooks his wife creates are exemplary and make going back and reviewing the rebroadcast so much easier. Also, I want to give a shout off to the Creative Live team...Kudos! They are an excellent host...they are professional and fun at the same time! The content they produce has helped me tremendously to expand my knowledge and skills and mostly importantly they are affordable!

Old_Redeye

Ben is one of my favorite instructors on CreativeLive. (That's saying a LOT because they are all so good!). Besides being very thorough and understandable, Ben sets himself apart with two things. 1. He thoroughly demonstrates a process, then does a recap of all the steps he just took. That makes it much easier to remember. 2. His wife takes notes during the broadcast and creates a handbook which is available to download when you purchase the course. Some people find it easier to learn by reading than by re-watching the video. I like it because I can find information by using a word search. I feel so fortunate that I was able to sit in the audience for this class. It was great to be able to talk directly to the instructor and interact with the other students.

Wilson Blackwell

Super class! Ben is the best at explaining Photoshop and how to make full use of it. This class included techniques I've never seen or heard explained in other photo restoration classes I've taken. And the accompanying book, while I've only glimpsed through it so far, is expansive, well laid out, attractive, and looks to cover everything Ben went over in the class - it's a valuable resource as well (thank you, Karen Willmore, for all the effort you put in to produce a worthy complement to what Ben teaches.)

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Retouch a Hazy Image in Adobe Camera Raw

Retouch a Hazy Image in Adobe Camera Raw

Lesson Info

3. Retouch a Hazy Image in Adobe Camera Raw

Lessons

Class Introduction

Tonal Rescue & Noise Reduction in Adobe Camera Raw