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Lesson Info

Using the Satin Foot

Well, when we stopped for the break, we were just about to start a neat little stitch that I wanted to talk to you about called the hand look quilt stitch and what that looks like um is on both of these heart apple I'm gonna demonstrate for you on this smaller one, but on both cases of this you'll see um what looks like a little pink thread where it looks like you actually took a hand needle and went in and out and in and out and in and out of the fabric to this echo quilting and what that actually is is called the hand look, quote stitch and it surprise you how you set up for it but in this case in both of these cases are going to demonstrate on this one is the thread that goes in your need I've already set up for it while we were on break. The thread that goes in the needle is actually the same color as thie upper fabric and the thread that goes in your bobbin is the colored one in this case pink c b how does it do that? Well, it just does the machines set up to do that for you you j...

ust have to thread properly so I like to put thie thread color to be something the same color or really blends well with thie fabric and then the color that I want to look like the hand pick running stitch that goes in the bobbin so in this case again I have the pink in the bobbin and it's a stitch on your machine over here, it's stitch number two and it looks like three bars and then a single bar and then three bars in a single bar. So that's, how that's the one it's stitch number two on your machine, right next to this there's straight stitch. And then the straight stretch stitch and then the hand look quilt stitch so too, so that it will just start another roll around this heart. And you can maybe just use the edge of your presser foot as a guide and you can change the length of it to you could make the stitches looked like tinier picks like this one or longer picks, and it has a very kind of organic, old fashioned kind of look to it, but we'll just go ahead and get started on some of this, but it does like a bunch of little tiny stitches, and then the skip looking one is the top threat, and then the little stitches air from the bottom side. It's crazy how it does it, but it's really, really fun way can already see the little picks happening. Here on the back side like to call him picks, they look like handling can look pick stitches now I've heard people say that stop right there so you can see, but look how how great that is and you can lengthen your stitch linked to make longer ones like this or shorten it to look like tinier pics. I've heard people say that they use monofilament nylon thread in the needle when they do this, and I tend not to like to do that. I find that the quality of the stitches looks better when I use a regular threat instead of the nylon thie other thing is that if you're doing this with quilting and you're ironing at those higher temperatures because you're working with cottons and things that the nylon thread you know it's not good to put super high heat on the nylon thread, and sometimes it also it's a little shiny and it catches the light and it doesn't have that really quilty look that I want, so you probably want to use a thread that blends really well. If you've got a print, maybe just find like a very maybe get a fine wait or some some kind of color that really disappears into the print and then have your hand pick stitch goes in the bobbin, so that is stitch number two on you. A machine and I thought that would be a really fun thing for you to know. You can also use this. I've done several projects over the years where I've used a stitch like this where I have navy blue thread in the needle white thread in the bobbin and I've worked on dark, dark, dark navy, even some denims, but a really dark up to dio japanese sasha co looking patterns and that is a wonderful stitch for that. You don't need to get one of those big fancy sasha co specialty machines you khun just use your hand look, quilt, stitch and get that look right on your machine here so that I wanted to show you. And the next thing I want to do is I'm going to show you thesis at foot. I know somebody was asking about satin foot. Is that right, cana? Somebody was asking about satin. Satin applicator? Yes. Let me go. Can't that question again? Wondering about accurate sentence ditching. Ok, so when we do applicators a couple different kinds of applicator let me pull my pieces out of here. I did it. So I took him out already. Great there's, different kinds of applicator theirs. Satin applicator there's pins to chapel k there's blanket stitch application and there's all kinds of different applications a well set up for satin stitching and I'll show you that in a moment but when you do that you want to change to a satin foot and that a satin foot for this model happens to be now we're talking about optional accessories for your machine, so the's would be attachments that you can by separately to enhance what your machine can do for you. But the reason you would want to change to a satin foot for doing satin stitching here I have my general purpose foot that comes on the machine and here's the satin foot now when I'm doing satin stitching generally what happens is you're you're you're taking your stitch each length very short so it's very, very dense and an example of that might be somebody go grab me that b that applicator board that I have with the be on it and that that's a really good example of satin stitch application perfect thank you so here you'll see is my initial and I have very, very, very close together zigzag stitch around this edge and it looks really pretty I've gotta use ray on thread and it just gave a beautiful effect with that shimmery get that in the light it almost changes with light those ray on threads but the reason that you use a satin foot to do that is because if I was sewing these really close together stitches with a regular presser foot, I contend to get a ball of thread just kind of building up in the whole of the presser foot, and the reason that happens is because the bottom side of this foot is flat, this this foot is designed for construction and for sewing seems and things like that it's not designed for decorative work, what you need for decorative work is something like this where the underside has like a little cut away or hope I hope you're able to catch that at home, I kind of move it in the light a little bit, but there's like a groove or a tunnel under here, so when you're sewing these really thick stitches, they can just pass freely underneath there with no obstruction and it's transparent here, so I can't even watch my work is ongoing, so the satin foot is the one you want to do that kind of stuff you've had your stitches jamming up on you that's probably cause you're just not using the right kind of foot ok? So let's snap that on and again this just kind of just wiggle letter until that clips on great and I'm going to change my thread no, I'm going to take a let's go ahead and we're going to do this heart design really like hearts here today and we're going to do a satin stitch in white thread around this heart I had pink thread in my bob and so I'm going to change back to my white bobbin so again let me just show you put that in drop it in so it turns that's the wrong way we wanted to turn clockwise perfect snap it in that little groove around click great pulled the latch the arm is at twelve o'clock we put that in and just seat it right in there now we're going to use our white ray on thread slide that on and you should have in here, eh? How do I put this one on and just turn it the other way? That will help that'll work too okay? So it's feeding the threat off like so and excuse me this way so it doesn't get caught down in that group, okay? And then we're going to snap it in here like this bring it down again. We got to make sure that take up lever is all the way up bring it around, make sure it slides into that I tuck it around that little thread guide and we'll use that automatic needle threat er and we're ready to start our satin stitching, draw up our bob and thread good to go well, threads go underneath the foot slot for the opening of the foot is right there in the center way used a few zobel web there's different types of it on the market I think there's wonder under and misty fuse and all kinds of different kinds of that you can use whichever is your preference and we've bonded our shape onto the base fabric. Sometimes what I like to do is test my stick john a little scrap first because with larger apple case you might like a larger width of zigzag with a smaller applicator you might like um a narrower zig zag so you might want to test set out on a on a swatch first, so for our purposes I'll just kind of do that over here on the side and you'll still get the idea and that's a zigzag stitch so that stitch number three and I'm going to use my my stitch with came up a five point o and I think that's a little wide for this heart's going to bring that down to about a three point oh maybe to start and just see how that look x and then my stitch length is at three point oh and that's way too long will probably be a zero point something for applicator so let's just try and go point five and just see how this looks first hold on. Just a little sick zagging way wanted a little wider. Maybe we wanted a little dancer. Just kind of depends on your personal preference. There's no real writer. Wrong answer for it. And so that actually looks really nice and dense, but it's a little thin, like little narrow, so I'm gonna widen that back out. Maybe let's start with a four a four point. Oh, and well, just continue testing that gives a little more coverage because it's wider get a little a sample of that and that actually looks pretty good. If you wanted it a little dancer, you could even bring that down one more notch on your stitch length. I think we're good at five for this one. So that looks good. We've determined that that's our setting. Ok, and so now we're going to start stitching around her heart. Now, when you applicator, if you found, by the way, just a little tip if you found that the thread you're working with that you're setting this up for. And you you want that even denser than that look, but your stitch length is already is short. As it will go, you can switch to a heavier weight thread, so for example, right now I'm working with a thirty wait ray on maybe you want to move to a forty weight. It would be a thicker threat, and it will be more kind of filling in ish because the threat is thicker, so you could try that if you're already got your stitch, length is short as it will go, and you still want it denser, so just a little tip there. So now we're going to start stitching around our heart and when your application, what you want to do is, um, as you doing yours, zigzag stitching you don't want to be, like stitching way over here into the background area. I like to say when music to the left and zag to the right. So you wanna when you needle comes over to the left, you want to be, you know, well on your application, and as it zags over to the right, you go just off the edge of the fabric. So you're really in closing that raw edge, and as you come around this shape, you'll be on this straight away here, and you can just go. But when you start coming around these, um, curves that are a little more, they're smaller curves, you know, might be had these big, long, sweeping curves on it, and I could just kind of drive around it, but these are much shorter so what we'll have what I'm going to end up doing here is I'm going toe see eggs, eggs, eggs, eggs, eggs, eggs and I'm going to stop with my needle down lift the presser foot lifter and just pivot a little bit so I can get get a little more straight away here and I hear already see I would come and it would be time for me to pivot again leave the needle down on the right lift the presser foot lifter pivot a little bit and continue going around so that's how you negotiate the curve like that so let's give this a try and I'm going to put this back on the machines so I have a nice flat level in front of me and will start stitching so when you put the needle down in the fabric see which great case it will start selling that foot controller I can reach it at home I saw with their feet not used to sewing in heels way so you just want to enclose that rock edge applications really fun no I mean there's so many things you can do it can embellish store bought clothes you can mix fabrics I mean you could do beautiful silks and I mean really have fun it's a great way to use scraps and when you start getting around this curvy area let the needle down on the right hand side lift pivot a little bit, let you negotiate a tighter occur without having delight, turn this yourself really tight, and then sometimes you end up it's too tight and you start veering off in your apple cake it's distorted and so just work with it. Just what it! What the needle sink over into the right hand side, drop it down, lift and pivot a little bit. You just keep going way probably need tio stop again, too, but the needle go down on the right left and pivot, and you just carry on around your piece like that, getting a little tight up here. So I'm going to stop people with this down. When you're doing outside curves like this, you let the needle sink down into the right hand side. If you were doing an inside curve, you would sink the needle over in the left hand side before before you turn. It kind of makes sense, because if you think about going around a shape like this, when you stop with it down and you pivot, you're not going to end up with a gap where pivoting made you open it up, so it just kind of makes sense now this thread looks a lot different from my original threat, because it's a it's a standard thread instead of a reon thread the marais on thread had a nice sheen to it and it looks like this one here that I'm working with I didn't get my stitch the same with that's a little wider than the one I started out with so you can play play with your thread with play with your thread lengths to achieve the look that you want drop it down now when you come to the corner you would just stop pivot and resume around and come on the straight away too finish and then you can use your reverse button to tie that off okay now there's some other stitches for applicator to besides the satin stitching I don't know if you can see on this apple here um this is a pin stitch um it looks like it goes over over and then down the cross like this and then over over down across like this and we did this apple here you see it a little better maybe on the green where there's more a little bit more of a contrast but this would be called like a pin stitch application and this has won. This is really cute when you do like teddy bears and children's clothing as a little bit more sort of old fashioned look to it than a satin applicator that you would have that looks more dense like this and there's, another one that you can do here. This looks because of where we set the length and width that looks fairly similar, but this is blind stitch applicator, and you can actually take your blind hem, stitch and make your width of it very narrow and your length of it kind of short. And then your fabric edges, you actually turn them over. These aren't raw edges like these are and, like our heart was raw edges, thie, these air like little shapes we cut out, impressed under, and then you can use your blind stitch, too, so blind stitch applicator. This is a good place where maybe you could use invisible nylon thread as well, but so they sometimes you hear referred to his blind stitch, apple cape in stitch, applicator, satin applicator. It's really has to do with stitcher using, and you have all these stitches in your machine.