Lessons

Lesson Info

Live Makeup Session: First Model

So we're just going to do a beautiful natural makeup to start with and I'm just going to turn you this way have a seat so that's a before and an after and that's the glamour I that we sort of heading towards depending on what suits each person so first I'll talk about preparing the skin I always start with some I asked my clients to actually come with moisture I skin but always have a feel of it and I clean my hands first so very important everything's clean, clean hands and did you more stressed this morning a citizen you did and I feel of your skin it's always like to do this because I want to see if there's any dry patches that are going to grab the makeup that I might not see by just looking so I won't have a feel of the skin and if I'm going to put a little bit of moisturizer on which I will do just for my purposes um just a very light oil control lotion you can work this in with a sponge or a makeup brush, but I actually like to use my hands because it feels nice for the client t...

o get a little bit of a mess aj and this is also a good time to fairly kind skin feel whether cheekbones sit and this is the time also when I ask them how they would like their make up what they were day today you know what the idea of a smoky ice everybody's got a very different idea off what smokey's um and that's why sue has her makeup cards which you can use to refer to your client you can say you know do you like this and they usually point to what they feel attracted to so I start off with that and then maybe build it up through the chute to even a dark rye now next slide is contouring which too doesn't like but I think it's really important that you do know where to contour and then it's up to you to use it or not um too high to make the cheek look high and to make it look more prominent um I measure from the corner of the mouth to the top of the exactly it's the diagram and then from the corner to this soft part in the middle of the year and this is where the darkest color would go to make the cheek book work it's receding contouring is all about dark and light it's like imagine you've got clay and what you want to make a lot lighter stand out you lighten and what you want to push back and make recede you darkened so it's I think fairly common knowledge this but it's a really important thing to keep in your mind because that's how you shape the face that's a contour the eye with dark and light him I should does and also the face you can also slim the nose down you can make the bridge of the nose look a little bit more prominent you can open up some people have sort of a deep creased there you can open that up by lightning at um so it is important to know how to contour I think especially the side of the cheek if you wanna make it you won't get more prominent and also um had a shave the note make it look um a little bit slimmer um if someone has a bump you can also straighten it out a little bit so then we'll go on to foundation yeah, just so you guys can go ahead and start prepping um your client's a nice sweet either a primary or a moisturizer whatever you like. Um now foundation I always match my client's foundation to the deck latasha doesn't matter what color their faces I want this to be uniform um susan's actually a little bit lighter there then chews on her face so I'll probably go somewhere in between my number one rule with foundation is taking down the neck don't just stop he so this all blends naturally we shade out this part of the neck with our chin so you always been a bit light of this I end up going down with my foundation and blend everything blend blend, blend okay, let's see what way I'm going to use a liquid foundation um I used this most of the time I find it quick and easy to work with in the studio usually gives me enough coverage I like to use a liquid where I couldn't build the coverage and you contest that by putting a layer of your liquid foundation on your hand let it dry and then do another layer if the second layer doesn't start to remove the first layer that's a good liquid foundation that you can layer and build your coverage as you need um I also like to still try and keep the skin looking like skin, so I do a sheila and then maybe spot conceal if I need to, um rather than doing it thick and heavy everywhere, so leakage what happens when you travel? You're things leak everywhere, so I'm going to mix thes to foundations for susan teo get her color and I do test it on the side of the face and blended in with my brush she would go a bit lighter actually that's better so you can use your brush to buff the foundation into the skin I find for some reason on some skins with the foundation, I tend to rabbit beck, wilton forwards, and when you see that it's really moving on the face and not thinking in, then I sometimes go to my fingers and work it in, um or I grow my sponge, and I do love thes beauty blenders because they're just a really quick way to work the foundation into the skin. It's also quite nice for the client it's a really soft kind of massage, isn't it? Feels really nice. That was called a beautyblender it's called the beautyblender. Yes, thank you and make sure you go around the nostril. We tend to be a little bit right there few capillaries, some sort of applying the foundation as I go and then working it into the skin. Okay, now I'm gonna go over the islands as well, and I will probably go in and add a little bit more concealer over the leads. A lot of the times, we've got quite a lot of discoloration on the leaf, so you want to neutralize all that and make it nice, and even so, I should ozone look true to color for me. Simona, a lot of folks are asking about the specific products that you're using, and I know that we hosted information to the forum for the last class is not the best. Resource um, I don't want to go through an ask you specifically for colors and numbers and names of brands every time uh, yeah, that is feel free to ask this's a makeup forever phd foundation, but if you want a list of my favorite color numbers, then we'll do that in this in the bathroom. Yeah, okay, so I'm just going to grab a bit more so I can go down susan's next question from theresa abuses wanting what? Um, brand doyle control moisturizer did you just use it? Was mac mac it's always get my client to stretch their chin up? Because it's just much easier and then I go through with the beautyblender and go ride around the neck, you know, don't just stop in the front if I've got a client that's going to wear their hair up and possibly they're quite turned, but their faces a lot lighter and I'm making their face darker to match the body. Then I make sure, you know, go right around these as well, so that there's no white parts left, okay, I've also got erica's on standby who is our model for today that I'll be doing a swell and I might just considered you a little bit more so that's just a really nice light based, but I'd like to add a little bit more concealing and a bit more coverage on susan and for that I'm just gonna use this liquid sealer on and grab my concealer brush so I can get a little bit closer to her. I am in a corner a swell clothes for me actually just look down sometimes when people close their eyes, they closed them quite titan end up with little wrinkles, so when they're open all the products, it separated. So I go between having the eyes closed and just looking down said the leads stretch out nicely for me. Now look up for me and then I just go in and pat underneath I wanna light in this whole area under here. I'm doing foundation first today, but actually when I worked day today, um, because I need to work fast, I do the eyes first, clean up all my fall away and then, um, do my foundation second, which I think is really different from what most people think of is that current you sort of get trained to do foundation first, but I'm fine doing it the other way because I didn't worry about what falls on the face. I will go through conceal my league when I do that way put my eye, should I primer on do all my liner? I don't do my miscarriage that point um, I'll talk you through that when I actually do it. Um, and then I could just clean everything that I've dropped underneath the face, re moisturizing funny, too, and then do my foundation question from her end, a flower is one dream. If you give your client's a guideline of things to do a week before the session or day before, for example, facial eyebrows, hair wash don't wash here. Um, I do actually have like, an email out that they get and it's, you know, if you like feck tanning, then go ahead and organized it for yourself. Do that. Um, exfoliate you face definitely exfoliator body before you ten come with clean, dry hair because I don't want to spend, you know, an hour drying someone's unless they've got short here and and I ring them also the day before and talk to them about this, you know? What kind of hair do you have if you've got short hair, you come with it wet, although beautiful, blow dry if you've got long hair that I'm going to kill, then come with it clean and dry, and definitely arrived with a clean face moisturize faced in the studio, so just it's so much better when they're when the face is being cleaned for awhile and more strives rather than me take it all off and then you know, start to put it back on I just prefer to work that way I what I'm heading now is just something with a little bit more coverage um and it's it's this waterproof concealer so it's just a little bit heavier than the foundation but it works really well with that foundation as well and susan's got a little bit of pigmentation just there so I'm gonna go ahead and dipping for something that's a little bit warm are just so I can counteract that. So besides my, um liquid foundations, I also have cream foundations or wax base foundations which provide a lot more coverage then not necessarily think but you can really build coverage with them and then him more heavily pigmented so I've decanted those into all these little boxes um and then I've also got sort of color correct er's that right in the skin and neutralized different pigments did you say someone of that you decant authorized them uh probably is the wrong word I got some pillboxes and scoop them out and squish them in he just for travel just free travel ok actually another reason good way to save room in your kit yes if if you have a client that has maybe a lot of freckle ing or a maybe scar or, uh, dark area. Do you ask them beforehand if they'd like any of that covered? Or if yes, you did? Definitely when I get a client with freckles, um, that works two ways. Some people love their freckles and others want to hide them. So always gauge say, you know, how do you normally, um how do you do your foundation? Do you cover your freckles completely or not? And they'll tell you all can have a bit more coverage. Tool, you know, that's fine, but with some with freckles and if you want to keep some of them, I like to use a quite a she foundation because you've got a really dark freckle and usually really pale skin in between. So it's really hard to get a color that's gonna we don't wanna goes darkest a freckle you also don't. Congo is light as the skin unless you completely masking it out, but I find if you're a person, that's got a frankly body as well. There's no point right? Having nothing here and then freckles everywhere else, unless you're going to the entire body, so I like to use it as she foundation and then just spot conceal where I need to just said the freckles come through and I think it's a fresher look a swell right okay thanks girls ahead of me okay? You're teaching dealers I'm sorry if I missed it um for me I actually is a mixture um elise mack concealers um I used makeup forever um also our cia may which is a really old makeup artist friend that's makes beautiful foundations and beautiful products um you're kind of a mix of a lot of things okay, I'm gonna swap you out and we'll bring erica in psych and do her base if you girls want to go ahead and just a really soft natural contour it I for me um and then we'll do some liner it's up to you so at this point if I know I'm going to go darker and darker or use the dark shadow um I sometimes don't set the foundation I said it at the end reason being is if I get fallout could wipe it away, touch it up and then do my sitting at the end um so it's up to you if you want to sit or not maybe leave the party till the end so primal leads um part of that or use your primer so that I should it doesn't crease so if you put a concealer on the island and go to put, and I should go straight on top, it's going to crease and stick and not last. So you need to powder that with loose, translucent powder. Um, that's going to set the concealer. And then you've got a beautiful, smooth surface to work its shadows on.