Lessons
Class Introduction
00:57 2The Science of Soap Making
08:40 3Important Soaping Vocabulary
09:52 4How to Use Oils, Colorants, Additives & Molds
32:02 5Tools Needed to Make Soap
05:28 6How to Use Lye Safely
05:30 7Lavender Everything Cold Process Soap Recipe
29:45 8Ingredients to Make Lotion
05:23Emulsifiers & Co-Emulsifiers for Lotion
03:34 10Preservatives for Lotion
05:35 11Liquids for Lotion
03:17 12Color & Additives for Lotion
08:48 13How to Sanitize Before Making Lotion
02:35 14How to Make Lotion: Beginner's Recipe
09:46 15Label Lotion to Sell
04:34 16How to Make a Balm: Whipped Avocado Balm
15:34 17Why Use Scrubs?
03:26 18Different Kinds of Exfoliants
05:20 19Preservatives in Scrubs?
07:08 20How to Make Pink Sea Salt Body Scrub
05:25 21How to Make Walnut Facial Scrub
12:37 22How to Make an Emulsified Scrub
16:04 23Label to Sell Scrubs
14:16 24Handmade Beauty Box: Shaving Soap
21:32 25Handmade Beauty Box: Jojoba Bead Scrub
18:09Lesson Info
How to Make Walnut Facial Scrub
The next scrub we're gonna work on is a walnut facial scrub and why is this a facial scrub whereas this is a body scrub, right? Technically, you could use this pink sea salt scrub on your face but you probably wouldn't want too. The grains are a little bit large for your face and the smell is also fairly strong, it's designed for body so if you put something that smells really strongly a. Up your nose and b. Up to your eyes, your eyes will all of a sudden actually start to water and so this walnut facial scrub is designed to showcase: one, how to make a dry scrub and two, why you would use some exfoliants in a facial scrub versus others. So our walnut facial scrub is sodium bicarbonate, so baking soda right, everybody knows baking soda, probably used it to clean. You know what a nice, beautiful feeling baking soda has. It's a nice, soft grain. Walnut shells, walnut shells again, they don't dissolve so that's why they make such a great facial scrub 'cause they don't dissolve. Kaolin cla...
y, kaolin clay is mined from the Earth and then purified, this is not the same clay that you're getting at pottery stores. This is mined from the Earth and purified and it is designed to help detoxify and pull out kind of toxins from your skin as well as help with oil reduction, right, 'cause clay is very good at absorbing oils. Sodium bicarbonate will help with that but clay is really like the hero of oil and also, kaolin clay is fantastic for sensitive skin as well. And then in this, we're using a little bit of tea tree essential oil and tea tree essential oil is a natural product and it is well known in the kind of herbal and aromatherapy communities for being a little antiseptic. It's commonly used for acne prone skin, you'll often see it in like cleaning recipes and cleaning products because it's really good, according to folklore at killing germs which is one of the reasons it's in this walnut facial scrub. This is a dry scrub so you don't have to worry about using a preservative. If we were to make this scrub up and then give it to someone but have given it to them mixed up with water, then we would definitely need a preservative. So this scrub looks like this when it's all done and we keep it, we keep it dry so that you don't have to do a preservative. So this is pretty easy to make. The biggest thing you have to worry about is clumping and when you're worrying about clumping, all you need to do is take a sifter and literally sift through and just smooth away any sort of clumps that you get. We have our walnut shells here, our baking soda here, and then our kaolin clay here. And I've already measured them out via weight because with scrubs, it's a science. You wanna use weight and not volume and all you need to do is just mix up really well and I see some really big clumps in there and so if I have a sifter, which I don't have, I would be mixing those clumps out and making sure that there wasn't any clumps in my final product 'cause again, it's not gonna hurt anything but you want your final product to look smooth and to look even. You can take, if you're wearing your gloves, your doing a clean kitchen environment, you can just take them and break them up. Then once you have a consistency that you're happy with without any clumps, all you need to do is add your tea tree essential oil and I'm using the tea tree essential oil again, because it's a really great essential oil but if you're thinking to yourself well, I have more mature, I have aging skin and I don't, acne is the furthest thing from my mind right now, some other essential oils that are great for skin is like clary sage essential oil is great for balancing, carrot seed essential oil is fantastic for mature, aging skin, lavender is always a good, solid choice. The way you use this scrub, you can either mix it with water or you can mix it with a little bit of oils or you can even mix it with a little bit of your favorite lotion and make kind of an almost cold cream type exfoliating mask. And since it has the kaolin clay already in there, it could, you could also double this up as a mask. I personally have something very similar to this in a little jar in my bathroom right now and I add it to my favorite facial cleansers, my favorite like soap based cleansers, liquid cleansers all the time to just give it a little bit of extra exfoliation because especially with the face, you get such dry patches on your face naturally, especially if you do any outdoor activities. So it's just nice to get those dry patches away by exfoliating extra. So here we have our dry facial scrub and again, the reason with the facial scrub and not quote a body scrub is because of the grain size that we chose. We chose everything to have very fine grain and we really paid close attention to the usage rate for the essential oil that we put in there because we wanna make sure that the essential oil usage rate is low enough that it's not gonna irritate your nose or your eyes as you're working with it. That's what makes this a facial scrub versus a body scrub. Kenna, how we doing on questions over there? We definitely have a lot of questions coming in. We can start with, you were talking about measuring with weight versus volume, but the question was with scrubs are the fragrance oils measured by weight or by volume? Generally, I measure everything by weight. With scrubs, so, when you're making soaps and lotion, there is full chemistry, multiple forces acting upon each other to make a new, exciting thing. With scrubs, there's a little bit more artistry at play, it's not so much this hard science as it is a, oh, I think I wanna use this, kind of like baking right, like I don't know if I wanna use this, I wanna use this, let's try this, let's try that. Weight is still more predictable and reliable for you and if you're thinking about making this into a business, you need to be keeping really good records and weight is the way to do that right, because my, when I look at this and I'm like mmmm, well that looks like a third of a cup but if you look at it from up here, who knows what you think or look at it from down here, it sure looks like a lot less. So that's why weight is the best option including for your fragrance oils and definitely always if you are using a preservative, weigh out everything including your preservative because you wanna make sure that you are really utilizing all the tools to have the best science and the best final product. We have a couple questions related to this recipe itself, Shana Rowe says can one use bentonite clay instead of kaolin clay for the scrub. That's a great question and let's talk about substitutions. Yes! You could use bentonite clay, you could use rose clay, you could use french green clay for this. This is one of those recipes where it's the proportions that really matter as opposed to the actual ingredients and so in terms of the proportions, we have the seven ounces of the sodium bicarbonate acts as a gentle exfoliant but it's almost like a filler too. That's kind of your filler and then the active ingredients are like the walnut shells and the kaolin clay so you could choose another fine grain scrub. For example, you could go with pumice, you could go with the bamboo extract, that would be a really good one. One that wouldn't be good to mix for example would be like the brown sugar. Think how soft brown sugar is right, it's gonna, it's just gonna go away and leave just a weird sugary, flick on your skin as opposed to a scrubby, really robust ingredient. Then any of the clays would work. Again, you wanna make sure it's a cosmetic grade clay that's been purified but you could totally use any other clay besides kaolin. And the same with the essential oil, although I would really stay away from the mints. I'm a big fan of not burning eyes on accident 'cause man mint's really so close to the eyes can be irritating. And so, just some more further questions on this. Alison Koontz says, is there a good replacement for people with tea tree allergies? Is there a good replacement for people with tea tree allergies, that's a good question. There are so many allergies out there so you could definitely use lavender essential oil, lemongrass essential oil, clary sage essential oil, carrot seed essential oil, those are some. Oh, helichrysum essential oil, those are some of my favorite, favorite ones for skin. When I'm formulating any skin products for myself, I'm always thinking okay what do aromatherapists say that this does, right. Essential oils you can't make, you can't make drug claims right, you can't say heals skin, you actually can't even really make anti-aging claims 'cause you can't prove it. There hasn't been clinical studies done on essential oils. But on the other hand, essential oils have been around for a really long time and have a lot of herbal, folklore that goes along with them like if you talk to people that are 90 years old, they will tell you what they used on their skin and it certainly wasn't a synthetic anti-aging ingredient and so I tend to look and see what aromatherapists have been saying for generations when I'm picking essential oils to use in my facial products. My question would be in regard to adding like a Vitamin C or a Vitamin E, those are supposed to be good for your skin. How would you add that, would you add that to a scrub? So to answer your question, you can add different vitamins so you could get your Vitamin E capsule at the store, pierce it and just put it in, you can buy it in bulk like literally Bramble Berry sells 16 ounce sizes of Vitamin E and you can add it with the essential, in this particular recipe, you'd add it with the essential oil. In this recipe over here, if you were to add Vitamin E, you'd be adding it with your oil phase, right, 'cause it's oil soluble so you'd add your oil soluble vitamin to your oils, your fractionated coconut oil. How would you measure that though? Do you have to take the tea tree oil out or? What I would do if you want to use like Vitamin E, it's usually used at about 1% so you do the math. You're like okay, this total recipe is going to make 12 ounces, 12 ounces times 1% is .12 ounces and then you can just weigh that out on a scale or you can look at the like say you're buying the Vitamin E capsules, each one is 3 grams. You can do the math from there. Now Vitamin C is one that you asked about. Man, what a powerful anti-ager right, like everybody sees Vitamin C stuff all over the place. Another thing you probably, well you may or may not have noticed is when you see Vitamin C facial products, they're usually in dark bottles, they're usually pretty small and they're usually crazy expensive or they're a two part process, right. I know several big cosmetic companies that have, they sell you the serum and then the Vitamin C is over here and then you mix 'em together each time you use them. Vitamin C is notoriously not stable. Like, you use it within three days it's lost all of its powers like done unless it's in like air-tight packaging, unless it's in brown bottles, unless it's a small amount. So Vitamin C is one that you can definitely buy. You could buy Vitamin C capsules, you can buy lots of different Vitamin C options and if you put it in a scrub, it's probably gonna be inert and lose its power within about three days unless it's capped in just a very air-tight container. That said, you could totally get a Vitamin C capsule and just mix it in every single time. So you can absolutely add your own vitamins and minerals to create something that's customized perfectly for your skin and there's a lot of great options out there. That's one of the reasons I like formulating myself, is because a. I don't have to pay department store pricing if I don't want to and b. A lot of times I know that what I'm making is more efficacious and works better than something that's been sitting on a shelf for 12 months already, right.
Class Materials
Ratings and Reviews
Julz P
Love this class! Second time watching it, wish there were live classes at this level in my City, I would love to make stuff on the weekends :-) Great job - love the class, come back soon!
Alexandra Paniagua
As a "Seasoned" Soaper this workshop was very instructive, fast paced and not boring at all!!!!! As everything else, we have to be up to date with new trends and ingredients, every day is a learning process, thank you very much to Creative Live, Anne-Marie and Bramble Berry for this AWESOME work shop and I hope you have another one soon :) :)
a Creativelive Student
Anne-Marie was a very thorough and thoughtful instructor. Her knowledge and enthusiasm were inspiring. She had everything organized and presented it in a very comprehensive sequential order. GREAT class as I never knew anything about soap/lotions/scrubs/balms/etc. I'd recommend purchasing the class!
Student Work
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