Lessons
Differences Between Lightroom Desktop and Lightroom Classic
19:42 2Hard Drives
08:06 3File Organization
08:31 430,000 Foot View of Workflow
05:36 5Importing into Lightroom
04:10 6Building Previews
07:14 7Collections and Publish Services
05:11 8Keywords
06:27Hardware for Lightroom
06:08 10Searching for Images
07:51 11Selecting Images
14:15 12Organizing Images
04:02 13Collecting Images for Use
14:56 14Develop Module Overview
10:15 15Profiles
11:34 16Basic Adjustments
11:45 17Basics Panel: Texture, Clarity, and Dehaze
05:31 18Basics Panel: Saturation and Vibrance
02:40 19Tone Curve
09:26 20HSL
04:48 21Split Tone
08:19 22Lens Corrections
08:32 23Details
09:34 24Transform Tool
05:52 25Effects Panel
10:00 26Synchronizing for Faster Editing
07:40 27Spot Tool
17:51 28Skin Softening and Brush Work
07:00 29Range Masking
13:28 30Dodge and Burn
17:36 31Working with Specific Colors
08:30 32Edit Quickly with Gradient Filters
11:22 33Making Presets
13:24 34Preparing Image in Lightroom
09:51 35Content Aware Fill
11:14 36Skin Repair
02:44 37Skin Smoothing
14:39 38Expanding a Canvas
04:30 39Liquify
10:22 40Layers and Composite Images
12:54 41Sharing via Web
17:52 42Exporting Files
10:47 43Sharing with Slideshows
08:00 44Archiving Photos and Catalogs
19:54 45Designing
13:35 46Making Prints
11:27 47Color Management and Profiles
13:00 48Archiving Photos and Catalogs
11:31 49Using Cloud Storage
04:09 50Adding Images to your Portfolio
09:23 51Collecting for Your Portfolio
18:03 52Publishing Unique Websites Per Project
19:48 53Sharing to Instagram
07:06 54HDR
15:32 55Panorama
06:41 56HDR Panorama
09:54 57Making Presets
15:39 58Creating Profiles
18:09 59Maps
07:08 60Setup for Tethered Shooting
23:21 61Sharing with the Client
05:42 62Watched Folder Process
07:04 63Second Monitor and iPad
06:09 64Backup at the Camera
03:50 65Gnar Box Disk Backup
06:45 66iPhone and iPad Review
12:52 67Importing to Lightroom on iPad
02:59 68Cloud Backup
04:39 69Adjust, Edit, and Organize
07:46 70Using Lightroom Between Devices
11:27 71Lightroom Desktop
05:27 72Removing Images from the Cloud
10:49 73Profiles
09:34 74Light
04:34 75Color
05:36 76Effects
15:22 77Details
08:33 78Optics
03:49 79Geometry
04:12 80Crop
04:39 81Adding and Using Presets and Profiles
13:41 82Local Adjustments
15:40 83Healing Tool
03:29 84Synchronizing Edits
04:57 85Editing in Photoshop
08:54 86Finding Images
07:09 87Sharing and Exporting Albums on the Web
09:18 88Posting Images to Social Media
14:01 89Overview of Lightroom Desktop
07:35 90The Workflow Overview
10:08 91Organizing Images
05:10 92Albums and Shared Albums
18:21 93Lightroom Desktop Workspace Overview
04:36 94Importing and Selecting Images
09:23 95HDR and Panoramics
22:44 96Light
07:47 97Profiles
07:23 98Tone Curves
02:57 99Color
08:35 100Effects
17:01 101Details
12:43 102Optics
04:05 103Geometry and Crop Tool
06:01 104Sync Settings
02:40 105Making and Adding Presets
03:48 106Healing Brush
02:21 107Brush Tool
03:14 108Gradient Tool
04:16 109Edit in Photoshop
02:53 110Finding Images with Sensei
06:32 111Sharing Albums on the Web
04:57 112Print through Photoshop
02:09 113Exporting Images to Files or Web Services
04:36 114Connecting with Lightroom Classic and Mobile Devices
05:24 115Archiving Images for Storage
09:55 116Review of the Workflow
07:20Lesson Info
Details
all right, so let's go back to detail and let's talk a little bit about working with details. So I'm gonna go into our portrait session that we were looking at before, and I'm going to Let's just go back to our original image, which I like a lot, and I'm gonna zoom into it at 1 to 1. So I'm looking at it, and it's a little bit soft. If I'm looking at 1 to 1, which is fine for a portrait. It's nice, but I would like a little bit more Christmas on her glasses and on her hair, that kind of stuff. And so I'm gonna come into the detail area, and this is where sharpening happens now. I think it's a mistake. Um, that light room has started to increase sharpening from the beginning, so it used to be maybe two versions ago. Light room would put your images at about 25 on the amount, so you can see that there's an amount here of sharpening. They would usually put it about 25 was kind of normal, normal sharpening for every every image that comes in, and now I find that it comes in 40 which is way...
, way too sharp. Everything looks too crunchy and to crisp. Um, and so I generally try and keep mine around 2025 something like that. That's that's about the right amount of sharpening. So let me explain what these things air these items air about. So amount sharpening amount is how much it's going, because sharpening is just creating contrast at an edge. That's all it's doing, so that if you have an edge that has a light and a dark area, there's there's there's a cliff there, and if you brighten up the white and you darken down the black, that cliff becomes sharper and it looks more sharp, even if it's still not sharp. But it looks sharper because there is a higher contrast between those two edges. So when you tell a sharpening amount, what you're doing is saying, How much do I want to increase the contrast that those edges? And that's what's creating that sharpness. So for me, I don't want that edge to be super crisp. Um, I don't want to sharpen, like, for instance, watch this. If I zoom in here and I take sharpening up to all the way. Look what happens. I'm gonna zoom in further, see, see how it finds every edge of even pixels, and it starts to look like I'm sketching her on. Ah, like with pointillism or something that gets really not good looking, So we don't want to do that, Um, but it makes it really crispy and crunchy and no good. It looks like someone kept saving a J peg over and over and over again. So what I want to do is instead, I want to use a tool that's proper for creating contrast edges, but not everywhere. And that is in the radius. So the radius is a great tool to increase. So what I want to do is I. Instead of increasing the amount, I immediately go to the radius and increase the radius somewhere between, like 1.42 about almost too. So somewhere around there. And you get a lot better, look out of a radius increase than you do out of a sharpening amount increase. And then, of course, detail is further adding a little bit of detail to that. It's very, very subtle, and so it's hard to even see what it's doing. But if you take it to zero and then you take it to 100 just watch closely what it's doing, you'll get a sense of what it's doing. But what it's what is trying to do is is help to find detailed edges and increase that contrast there. So and then masking is specific to, um, usually skin tones. Um, if you mask, you're basically saying, I don't want you to start sharpening until a certain level, and that usually helps to avoid sharpening in like the skin. But it will still sharp in the hair because sees a lot of contrast changes in the hair, but it doesn't see it in the skin, so it avoids the skin and does the hair. It's not always super accurate, so I would rather do those that kind of sharpening on my own by masking using a targeted adjustment like the brush or something like that. So I'm asking. I almost always leave it. Zero radius is always fairly in the middle. Sharpening is always at about 25 or six, and less had to do something heroic. Um, and then detail kind of fluctuates between about 20 and 40 ish. So that's generally my settings for sharpening. Um, the other thing is noise reduction. Um, and this is a great opportunity for you to see. Um, so I'm just gonna click on a bunch of images, and I'm going to go up to library hopes. I'm going to go upto library filter, and I'm gonna go into metadata. There's a great opportunity for you to see metadata in play. So I'm just going to go in and say I want any image that has a I s O of 8000 Let's say 6400 or higher. Okay, so now Iowa, I s 0 6400 or higher, and I'm gonna look for an image, and they're ago. So we're looking at an image of dancers, and I'm just zooming in and and I'm going to zoom in enough that we can see the actual noise, and then I I want to turn off the noise reduction so you can see what the noise reduction is doing. So right now, it still has some noise. And this is 6400. Ah, I eso on a Sony. I think it's in a seven r three or something like that. Um, so I'm gonna turn off the noise reduction, and you can see that there's quite the Sony is a pretty good camera for noise, but you can see there's quiet of it annoys in those shadows and by simply turning on the noise reduction to about 20 or so. It really softens up what looks like that kind of J peg artifact ing. But the thing that I want you to notice is here in the exit sign, which is not important. But it's a good indication of how well it softens the noise, but did doesn't soften the actual edges of things. So watch, this is I go to 2500 watch the exit sign. The exit signs still saved sharp, and the noise in the the shadows here kind of softened up. And I can keep going with that until it's really soft. And still the exit signs stays fairly sharp now. Part of that is because the detail is high. So if I take the detail all the way down, you can see the exit sign got a little sharp, a softer and if you take the detail all the way up you can see that the exit sign get sharper, but also it with the detail all the way up. You end up getting a little artifact ing towards the edges of that exit sign, so it's important to keep the details somewhere in the middle. Um, and luminous noise reduction. There's nothing wrong with a little grain, so feel free to use. Ah, luminous noise reduction, especially with modern cameras, cameras, anything that was made by before, like around 2017 on uh, basically in the canon family, it's like five D Mark four and on is really good at noise reduction. And so a little bit of noise reduction goes a long way. Um, there's also cook color noise reduction, which is generally just sat at 25 just stays the same, and it pretty much works all the time. But if you get to a point where you do have some color noise, this is it's right in the same place. Just simply increase it until the noise disappears, but otherwise just leave it at 25. It should stay that way and and it it it won't matter one way or the other. As long as you keep it at 25 Um, and it's pretty much on every image. If you take that to zero, you will see color noise even in the best of cameras, because the computer has to remove some noise from all digital files. Have a little bit of color noise in them, no matter what I s o your at. So generally speaking, your color noise reduction is just given that your computer is going to do that.
Class Materials
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Ratings and Reviews
Ira Richterman
I am truly a recreational novice in the photography world and this video is fantastic. Photography has become a very technical world both on the camera side as well as post production. Jared has great teaching skills and sure makes it look very simple. I would recommend this video for those starting out in Lightroom as this program can be overwhelming and has a daunting amount of information. I would like to know if there is a resource of location of contact to ask a question or two for clarifications as a viewer goes through the course. For example, when making a new collection and if you choose the option of making this new collection a target collection, what happens if you then make another new collection and select that new collection to be a target collection? If you click on B to add a photo to a target collection and you made two target collections then where does this virtual selection go, ie into which target collection? Thanks Ira irichterma@aol.com
catherine Haggerty
Loved this class. As a beginner it really gives me working knowledge to use LR confidently. This class is older, so a few times I really had to stop and figure out how it worked in the newest version of LR... but all in all this class was amazing!
Dan Clarke
This class was great. I've never used Lightroom before and now I feel comfortable in it. Massive amount of good info.