Photoshop and Lens Correction
Blake Rudis
Lessons
Bootcamp Introduction
16:22 2The Bridge Interface
13:33 3Setting up Bridge
06:55 4Overview of Bridge
11:29 5Practical Application of Bridge
27:56 6Introduction to Raw Editing
11:00 7Setting up ACR Preferences & Interface
07:39 8Global Tools Part 1
16:44Global Tools Part 2
20:01 10Local Tools
22:56 11Introduction to the Photoshop Interface
07:13 12Toolbars, Menus and Windows
25:07 13Setup and Interface
11:48 14Adobe Libraries
05:57 15Saving Files
07:39 16Introduction to Cropping
12:10 17Cropping for Composition in ACR
04:44 18Cropping for Composition in Photoshop
12:40 19Cropping for the Subject in Post
03:25 20Cropping for Print
07:34 21Perspective Cropping in Photoshop
07:11 22Introduction to Layers
08:42 23Vector & Raster Layers Basics
05:05 24Adjustment Layers in Photoshop
27:35 25Organizing and Managing Layers
15:35 26Introduction to Layer Tools and Blend Modes
21:34 27Screen and Multiply and Overlay
09:15 28Soft Light Blend Mode
07:34 29Color and Luminosity Blend Modes
12:47 30Color Burn and Color Dodge Blend Modes
07:43 31Introduction to Layer Styles
11:43 32Practical Application: Layer Tools
13:06 33Introduction to Masks and Brushes
04:43 34Brush Basics
09:22 35Custom Brushes
04:01 36Brush Mask: Vignettes
06:58 37Brush Mask: Curves Dodge & Burn
06:53 38Brush Mask: Hue & Saturation
07:52 39Mask Groups
05:52 40Clipping Masks
04:11 41Masking in Adobe Camera Raw
07:06 42Practical Applications: Masks
14:03 43Introduction to Selections
05:42 44Basic Selection Tools
17:41 45The Pen Tool
11:56 46Masks from Selections
04:22 47Selecting Subjects and Masking
07:11 48Color Range Mask
17:35 49Luminosity Masks Basics
12:00 50Introduction to Cleanup Tools
07:02 51Adobe Camera Raw
10:16 52Healing and Spot Healing Brush
14:56 53The Clone Stamp Tool
10:20 54The Patch Tool
06:38 55Content Aware Move Tool
04:56 56Content Aware Fill
06:46 57Custom Cleanup Selections
15:42 58Introduction to Shapes and Text
13:46 59Text Basics
15:57 60Shape Basics
07:00 61Adding Text to Pictures
09:46 62Custom Water Marks
14:05 63Introduction to Smart Objects
04:37 64Smart Object Basics
09:13 65Smart Objects and Filters
09:05 66Smart Objects and Image Transformation
10:57 67Smart Objects and Album Layouts
11:40 68Smart Objects and Composites
10:47 69Introduction to Image Transforming
04:34 70ACR and Lens Correction
09:45 71Photoshop and Lens Correction
14:26 72The Warp Tool
11:16 73Perspective Transformations
20:33 74Introduction to Actions in Photoshop
09:27 75Introduction to the Actions Panel Interface
05:06 76Making Your First Action
03:49 77Modifying Actions After You Record Them
11:38 78Adding Stops to Actions
04:01 79Conditional Actions
07:36 80Actions that Communicate
25:26 81Introduction to Filters
04:38 82ACR as a Filter
09:20 83Helpful Artistic Filters
17:08 84Helpful Practical Filters
07:08 85Sharpening with Filters
07:32 86Rendering Trees
08:20 87The Oil Paint and Add Noise Filters
15:08 88Introduction to Editing Video
06:20 89Timeline for Video
08:15 90Cropping Video
03:34 91Adjustment Layers and Video
05:25 92Building Lookup Tables
07:00 93Layers, Masking Video & Working with Type
15:11 94ACR to Edit Video
06:10 95Animated Gifs
11:39 96Introduction to Creative Effects
06:08 97Black, White, and Monochrome
18:05 98Matte and Cinematic Effects
08:23 99Gradient Maps and Solid Color Grades
12:20 100Gradients
04:21 101Glow and Haze
10:23 102Introduction to Natural Retouching
05:33 103Brightening Teeth
10:25 104Clean Up with the Clone Stamp Tool
08:07 105Cleaning and Brightening Eyes
16:58 106Advanced Clean Up Techniques
24:47 107Introduction to Portrait Workflow & Bridge Organization
14:47 108ACR for Portraits Pre-Edits
21:27 109Portrait Workflow Techniques
18:46 110Introduction to Landscape Workflow & Bridge Organization
12:17 111Landscape Workflow Techniques
37:36 112Introduction to Compositing & Bridge
06:59 113Composite Workflow Techniques
34:01 114Landscape Composite Projects
24:14 115Bonus: Rothko and Workspace
05:15 116Bonus: Adding Textures to Photos
07:05 117Bonus: The Mask (Extras)
05:18 118Bonus: The Color Range Mask in ACR
04:54Lesson Info
Photoshop and Lens Correction
Now let's go ahead and minimize this, and we'll open up the exact same photograph, but this time we're gonna use Photoshop's lens correction to try and fix this. Because all of the perspective corrections that are found in Photoshop are under our filter, we're gonna go ahead and change this to a smart object, so that we can have access to those if we ever need to go back to them. So I'm gonna right-click this, and go to Convert to Smart Object, and then go up to Filter, and go up to Lens Correction. So under Lens Correction, there's a lot of different boxes here that we can check, we can tick and check to get everything right and set up for our image, especially using things like the Camera Make, the Camera Model just like we saw in Adobe Camera Raw. Those things still exist in here as well. It's already loading up a lens profile for me, which'll be the Sony 16 to 35 f/2.8 lens So I could turn on and off that vignetting, just like we do in Adobe Camera Raw. It's very similar to the thi...
ngs that you would see in Adobe Camera Raw. If I were to go over to the custom setting here, this is where I can do some more chromatic aberration removal that we didn't see in Adobe Camera Raw. This gives us a red cyan fringe, a green magenta fringe, and a blue yellow fringe, whereas Adobe Camera Raw, I believe, just gives us the green and magenta fringe. We also have our vignetting and our ability to transform down here. So if we were going to transform this image using the custom settings here, we have our vertical perspective correction, which we would then turn like this, which essentially when we go into Adobe Camera Raw and we tell Camera Raw to make our vertical lines more vertical, this is essentially what it's doing. We just get a slider now that gives us the ability to do it rather than waiting to see what Adobe Camera Raw is gonna spit out for us. And again, the horizontal perspective is the same thing, it's gonna be how you shift that horizon on either the left- or right-hand side of the image, and this looks like it blends a little bit right there. And then we we have the scale. I'm gonna pull that scale out again. You can see that when we pull that scale out, we can see all the things we've done to the top of our image are actually making this perspective get fixed. But it's the same concept here. When we pull that scale out, we will have all of the bounds on the outside of the image that we would need to fill in. And the autocorrections didn't quite fix it like we would want it to fix it. So if we go ahead and, here we have our Straighten tool as well, and we have a Remove Distortion tool. So, the Remove Distortion Tool, if we click on the Center of our image, we drag it to the left or to the right, it's going to allow us to fix that barrel distortion that's happening in the image. I'll just do an extreme version here. You can see how it's turning into an orb, it's actually making more distortion than it is fixing any distortion. This would be a manual way for us to correct any barrel distortion that's happening in the image, that say maybe the autocorrection could not fix. And then we have our Level tool, our Straighten tool, and the grid tool. I don't see that doing much of anything here, so let's just. Yeah. Let's see what happens now. Oh, so what the Move Grid tool is doing here is it's basically just giving use a series of guides to help us and assist us with any of the things that we're gonna be doing over here with our custom corrections. So I have a guide here now that tells me that this vertical line that I have right here probably isn't as straight as I thought it was, so if I were to move this over, I'm now basing that off of that. And if I wanna move that guide at any time, I just move this over, and now I can move that over to make sure that that straight line is straight. So just a guide to help us out to make sure that we get our image straight. But again, it's cropping off the bottom of our shadow here, so if we did wanna keep that, we'd have to consider what we're gonna do in Photoshop after we're done with this. If we were to bring this scale down so we could see the outer bounds of the image, just to the bottom of that shadow. So with this perspective at this point, we've got the nice shadow along the bottom. If I were to open this image up in Photoshop, this is set to a smart object, so at any time I could double-click on this and open this image up. Again, because it's a smart filter, just to see what's gonna happen here, maybe we go ahead and click on the smart filter, press B for our Brush tool, and brush in with black on a given area. And you can see that it's pulling in the old image. So we can recover it that way if we needed to also. That just recovers that top area there, and doesn't give us that issue. Now I'll make this brush a little bit smaller, transfer over to white, and then brush that in to resurrect that top area. So instead of having to fill in that area, we're just using the data that was already there before, and because it's a smart object, we have the ability to go into that. Now, because it is a smart object, if at any time we wanted to go back in and change those lens correction settings, we're not stuck with them. We can double-click on the lens corrections, or back into the the lens correction. Now just like we talked about before with Adobe Camera Raw, it has a smart object. In the last lesson, when we double-click on the filter settings, it's not seeing the mask that we made there. So just keep in mind that when we go back out of here and press okay, it's going to have those settings, and then it's going to put the mask on top of it, okay? There is another tool that we have in Photoshop, that is gonna be more of a sledgehammer. Now that was more of like a, I don't know, a mild hammer. The sledgehammer tool for fixing perspective correction is going to be in the Adaptive Wide Angle Perspective Correction. So if I right-click this, I'm gonna turn this into a smart object so I can always go back to it later. Control and Space Bar, right-click, make this a little bit bigger so I can see what's going on here. If I were to drag a ruler in from the side, if you press Command or Control + R, it's gonna turn your rulers on and off. So if I were to drag a ruler from the side to see what a straight line is, this clearly has nothing straight in the vertical area. So if I go up to Filter at this point to straighten this out, I'm gonna go right here to Adaptive Wide Angle Lens Correction. And the Adaptive Wide Angle Lens Correction has a couple different settings in here to try and help you fix maybe a fisheye perspective, or just regular perspective. You can try auto to see if that works, and then you can go to something like Full Spherical, if it was a a full spherical image, but it's not so it won't do it. But the auto by itself is not gonna fix this photograph. Not at all. What we're gonna need to do is we're gonna need to do the tedious process of building the lines on here to tell Photoshop what a straight line is, and how to straighten it. And the reason why they call it adaptive is because as you build this up, the whole image starts adapting what the wide angle perspective is gonna be as you start adding more lines and building up and building up and building up. So if I click right here, you can see I get a little preview over there in the Detail Section, and I drag this down. Look at that cyan line. It's actually doing a little bit of a warping on it's own, so it's not even drawing a straight line to begin with. So I'll just put that line there like that, and then I'll come over to the other side of the image and go from here all the way down to here. Again, I'm using that preview that you see on the right-hand side to define those edges. Now just by making these lines, it will start to shift things a little bit, but it's not gonna shift things until you tell Photoshop to start shifting this image around. This is where it starts to get kind of fun, and you can sit here for a very long time trying to get this to work. That's why I chose this image for you as your practice image. So if we click right here on this little arrow that's pointing back and forth, if we click and hold on this, notice how it's saying it's an 84.9 degree angle. If I press and hold Shift and move it over, it wants that to now be a 90 degree angle. Watch what happens; the whole image starts to shift over, but making that line straight. If I click on this line, press and hold Shift. Oops. If I click on this line right here and I have that little arrow next to it, press and hold Shift, click on it, then press and hold Shift, and move it over to the left. You can see it starts to make all my lines straight. But it's still not perfect. We've got this side of building is bowing in like this, we got this top of the building, which looks like this. So you just build up, and start adding multiple lines to this, and it adapts as it works. So if we click this side right here and move this over, again, look at that line. You see how it's kind of curving? It already knows that that's a line that you wanna fix, we'll click right there, click and hold, then press Shift, make that a zero degree angle, and fix that. But you're gonna have to do this quite a bit. Go over to this side, click on it, press and hold Shift. Get it to fix. Go to this side, look at that one, they're really bowed out. Click, press and hold Shift. Go to this side, maybe right here. Just work from the outside in. Click on it, press and hold Shift to get a 90 degree angle. Again, this top portion, click right here, move it over to let's say here, press and hold Shift and tell that to be straight. You can sit here all day and do this. I mean we could if, I could do this all day. And you just have to go through and continue picking lines, and as you do that, Photoshop is pretty smart. Look at that. And it will take a little bit of work to get the whole image straight. But know, the cool thing about this is that it is adaptive. As you add more lines, it gets smarter and smarter and smarter. And we'll do one more right here, and then I'm gonna work on the other side. This isn't a one like, oh I'm gonna just make a one line difference and fix this. It's gonna be a slow process. And we'll go over to this side, grab right here. Come to this edge, click and hold, press and hold Shift, straighten that out. This one's gonna be a tricky one 'cause it's so small. Isn't that cool? I don't know about you, but I get excited when I see that. Whoa, look at that! This building was not straight before, but it is now! It's getting there. Whoa, if you go too far though, something like that'll happen. So just make sure that you get 90 degrees, come over here like this, press and hold Shift. We'll do that right here with this one too, that might start fixing this up a little bit. That one's really bad. Have been starting to get in line though, you see that? Pretty cool. I'm just gonna do a couple more, and then we'll hop into Photoshop and I'll show you how you can fix the size again. I'll do one line across here, okay. One more, I just get addicted to it. I can't stop, can't stop! Yeah, okay, so that looks pretty good. We'll just go with that. Know that parts of this are still gonna be a little bowed, still a little warped, but I mean, I could sit here all day and keep adding lines to this to make it straight. The point is, and what I want you to gather from this is that the more lines you add to this, the smarter and smarter and smarter Photoshop is getting about what is not correct in this image, so that you can get that to be much more perspectively correct than it was before. If we go ahead and commit to that, press Okay. Again, this is a smart object. So everything we did in there is contained within that smart object. Let's go ahead and try something real quick. I'm wondering if this is gonna work, 'cause if it's a smart object, I'm not sure it's gonna add anything to it, but we'll see. So click the Magic Wand tool, now click outside here, oh, look at that. Press Shift + F5. Shift + F5! It's not gonna work. So that's one thing I didn't teach you in the last lesson. Certain things are not gonna be available in a smart object. And the reason why is because smart objects, because they are vector-based and they're always calculating what happened with the original pixels. They might not allow you to do certain things, especially like Fill. 'Cause now you're telling it to fill it with information that didn't exist before it became a smart object. It's not gonna allow you to do that. But if we go ahead and just press Command or Control + D, right-click on this, and let's duplicate it first. Command or Control + J to duplicate it, and then right-click and then rasterize. Why I duplicate it first is because now I still have all that information down there. If I ever go back to it, I have that information there, I'm working on a non-destructive layer here. So I'll just go ahead and add that, Shift + F5, and now it works because it's a pixel-based layer, not a vector-based layer, press Enter, and Photoshop is pretty darn smart and fills in those other areas too. Things are still looking a little kind of, I don't know, out of a cartoon here a little bit, but again, just spend a little bit more time on that. This is a practice image, so feel free to use this practice image and beat this practice image up to your liking.
Class Materials
Ratings and Reviews
Robert Andrews
Blake Rudis is the absolute best in teaching photoshop. His knowledge and how he presents the instruction is clear and concise - there is NO ONE BETTER. Yes, his classes require some basic skills, and maybe I'd organize the order of (or group) the classes in a different order, but, let me be clear - if anyone is to be successful or famous in the Photoshop world, it should be Blake Rudis. I strongly recommend his teaching. I started photography and post processing in 2018, and because of this class, I'm know what Im doing. The energy you get when you create something beautiful is profound, it makes you bounce out of bed (at 4AM) like a 5 year old, to go create. It's a great ride! Thanks Blake, & Thanks Creative live.
a Creativelive Student
Amazing course, but don't be fooled into thinking this is a beginner's course for photographers. The problem isn't Blake's explanations; they're top. The problem is the vast scope of this course and the order in which the topics are presented. Take layers for example. When I was first learning Photoshop (back when we learned from books), I found I learned little or nothing from, for example, books that covered layers before they covered how to improve/process photographs. These books taught me how to organize, move, and link layers before they showed me what a layer was actually for. Those books tended to teach me everything there is to know about layers (types of layers, how to organize them, how to move them, how to move them two at a time, how to move them two at a time even if there are other layers between the two you're interested in, useful troubleshooting tips, etc. ) all before I even know (from a photographer's point of view) what it is the things actually do. The examples of organizing, linking, and moving mean everything for graphic designers from Day One, but for photographers not so much. Blake does the same thing as those books. Topics he covers extremely early demand a lot of theoretical imagination for a photographer who doesn't already know quite a bit about what he is talking about. Learning about abstract things first and concrete things later only makes PS that much harder to understand. If you AREN'T a beginner, however, this course is amazing. I thought it would be like an Army Bootcamp, taking you from zero and building you into a fit, competent Photoshop grunt. Now I think it's more like Army Bootcamp for high school varsity jocks. It isn't going to take you from the beginning, but the amount you'll get out of it is nonetheless more than your brain can imagine. I've been using PS for years to improve my photographs, and even to create the odd artistic composite or two. The amount I've learned in the first week is amazing, and every day I learn something -- more like many things -- which I immediately implement to improve my productivity and/or widen the horizons of what I can achieve. If you ARE a photographer who's a Photoshop beginner, I'd take very seriously the advice Blake gives in the introduction: Watch one lesson, and practice the skills and principles you learn in that one lesson for two weeks. THEN watch the next lesson. You can't do that of course without buying the course, so it's up to you to decide whether you'd like to learn Photoshop and master Photoshop all from the same course. Learning it first and mastering it later will cost more money, but I think you'll understand everything better and have a much more enjoyable ride in the process. As for me? I'm going to have to find the money to buy this course. There is simply way too much content in each lesson for me to try to take on all at once, but on the other hand I don't want to miss anything at all that he has to share.
Esther Gambrell
WOW!!! I've been purchasing CL classes for several years now and have watched HOURS of "How-To Photoshop" classes, but this is the first one I've actually purchased because of the AWESOME BONUS content!!! SERIOUSLY??!!?!? A PLUG-IN??? But not only that, Blake is SO easy to understand, and he breaks down concepts in different ways to connect with different people's learning styles. I REALLY appreciated this approach because I am a LEFT-BRAINED creative that has an engineering background, so I really connected to what Blake was saying. THANK YOU FOR THAT! There are TONS of Photoshop courses out there, but I found this one to be the most helpful in they way Blake teaches concepts so that you know WHY you're doing what your doing. I feel like he taught me how to fish with Photoshop to feed me for a lifetime instead of just giving me a fish to feed me for one day. This is the BEST overall PS course out there!!! Thank you!!!!