Upload Spherical Panoramic To Facebook
Chris Converse
Lesson Info
14. Upload Spherical Panoramic To Facebook
Lessons
Class Introduction
01:43 2Software You'll Need
00:36 3A Brief Intro To After Effects
01:54 4Class Materials
00:56 5Isolating The Tripod Area
07:17 6Seamless Tripod Removal
02:04 7Replacing Tripod From Bottom Of Sphere
03:37 8Retouch And Reset The Panorama Center Point
03:39Lesson Info
Upload Spherical Panoramic To Facebook
now in order to preview the user experience of our new panorama, we're going to need a viewer. Many camera manufacturers have their own viewers for computers and mobile devices and you don't need to own a camera to view the images. I have a copy of the free ricoh theta viewer which you can find by searching for ricoh theta app and I can preview the panorama simply by dragging the J Peg into the app window. And once I like the revised user experience that we created in this class, I'm ready to share this online. At the time of this recording many social networks are supporting 360 photos with their own built in viewers as well. So to demonstrate this on the most popular social network, a log into Facebook and post are Jpeg file as a new photo. Facebook then reads the metadata and then activates its built in 360 viewer which will allow anyone to explore the image. And if someone is on a mobile device with an accelerometer, they can also explore the image by moving their device around. An...
d so with that we've completed editing are 3 60 photo. We removed the tripod, added in a logo, cleaned up the lawn, added a sunset, composited another image to get a new sky, make color adjustments and all of those techniques really just come together to really transform this image. So now we're ready to share this on social media platforms, Google street view again, anywhere that 3 60 photos are supported and so with that I really appreciate you watching my course and I hope to see you again in another course here on Creative Live.
Class Materials
Ratings and Reviews
Rex Maximilian
In Lesson 8 I would highly recommend grouping the layers into a folder named "Components," then duplicate it and turn the duplicate into a smart layer. Then rename the smart layer "Composite," or something like that. Then turn off the group of layers leaving only the composite layer displayed. This way the files remains editable for future lawn/image cleaning. The way the instructor did it would delete all of the layers for potential future editing.