Lesson Info
3. Photo Basics
Lessons
Class Introduction
04:48 2Camera Overview
12:06 3Photo Basics
06:03 4Top Deck: Overview
04:23 5Top Deck: Exposure Control
27:35 6Top Deck: Metering
07:17 7Top Deck: Drive Mode
21:01 8Camera Controls: Viewfinder Display
09:26Backside: Playback
08:50 10Backside: Auto Exposure Lock and Focus
10:04 11Backside: Quick Menu Custom Settings
04:35 12Quick Menu: AF Mode
08:27 13Quick Menu: Dynamic Range & White Balance
04:35 14Quick Menu: Noise, Image Size, Film Sim & Color
13:49 15Quick Menu: Self Timer, Face Detection & Flash
05:21 16Function Button of Fuji X-T2
12:08 17Left & Right Side of Fuji X-T2
06:51 18Bottom of Fuji X-T2
09:40 19Front of Fuji X-T2
05:50 20Fuji Lenses
07:37 21Q&A
02:38 22Camera Menu Overview
02:56 23Image Quality Settings
18:04 24Auto Focus and Manual Focus Menus
20:50 25Shooting Settings
19:13 26Flash Mode
08:18 27Movie Mode
05:09 28Camera Menu Q&A
02:53 29Set-Up Menu: Basics
01:38 30Demo: Add Items to My Menu
03:26 31User Setting: Sensor Cleaning and Sounds
04:39 32Screen Set-Up
07:36 33Button Dial Setting & Power Management
12:06 34Save Data Set-Up & Connection Setting
07:59 35Playback Menu
08:52 36Camera Operation Overview
14:30 37Firmware Addendum
30:43Lesson Info
Photo Basics
This next section is on photo basics, and I know this is far beyond a lot of you out there, but you know what, some of you like it, and it's good to go through some of the basics if you're new to photography, so that's what we're gonna do in this little section. All right, so this is a mirrorless camera. We have interchangeable lenses, we'll talk about lenses here in a little bit. In each of the lenses is an aperture that can open and close, that helps control the amount of light coming into the camera. Now, the aperture has many different openings, and so these are the f/stops, f/1.4 is a wide opening, f/22 is a very small opening. As we go from one of these settings to the next, we're letting in either twice as much light, or half the light. That's the increments we like to work in photography. Now, by changing the size of the aperture, we are also going to be changing the depth of field, or how much is in focus. And so, very shallow depth of field at 1.4, and as we stop our aperture...
down, the depth of field grows with each aperture setting. Now, each of these aperture settings is also letting in half as much light, so we're needing to compensate with either shutter speeds or ISOs to let in the correct amount of light, until we get down to 22, where we get the greatest depth of field available in this theoretical lens at least. Some lenses will stop down beyond that. So, light comes in, and go straight to the image sensor. No mirror in this, which is why it's a mirrorless camera. So, it sends the information to the LCD on the back of the camera, which can be handy to see, but it also has a great, one of the best electronic viewfinders out on the market, and so that's what you're gonna be looking at through the viewfinder. Now, at the sensor level, taking a closer look at the light coming in, there is two shutter curtains that are gonna control your shutter speed. When it's time to take a photo, what happens is the first curtain needs to close so that the sensor can prep for actually taking an image, as opposed to just viewing it, and then it opens, this is your shutter speed, or your exposure time, and then the second curtain closes, and it does so in this manner so that each pixel is exposed for exactly the same amount of time. And then it opens again so that you can see what's going on again. And so, there's a lot of shutter movement going back and forth to get the image taken. And so, your shutter speeds are gonna range from 8000th of a second, down to 30 seconds. Before you call me out and say I'm wrong, I'm gonna talk more about this in a moment, but this is kinda the general range. And so, those thousandths are for super fast action, your normal is gonna be around a 60th to 125th of a second, and you'll use different shutter speeds for obviously different types of photography. All right, so that's what's going on in your mirrorless camera, to kinda give you a brief overview of what the main operations are in there. Now, there's a lot of different cameras out on the market, and one of the most important differences is the size of the sensor in the camera itself. Now, the largest of the common sizes is based off of 35mm film, but in order to save money, and to have smaller sized cameras, the manufacturers have developed a number of smaller sized sensors, and this one uses one that's just a step down from what is known as a full frame sensor, or one that's based on the 35mm film. And so, for those of us who used 35mm film, it was a nice transition just getting a full frame camera, but we ended up with sensors that were large, and cameras and lenses that were somewhat large for some uses. And so, the APS-C sensor in this is a nice compact, it's a very efficient sized sensor, as far as the size of the camera and the lens, and what you get out of it, so it's a very popular size. It's probably the most popular among people with interchangeable lenses out there. So, it's a good happy medium you might say. When attaching the strap to the camera, I see a number of people who have the strap attached wrong. This is the correct system. The main thing that you wanna have is you want to have that tail going under, on the underside. It is less likely to slip out, there's a little bit more pressure on it, and so it's not likely to come undone on its own. As far as holding the camera, kinda the key thing that you wanna do to do this properly is in your left hand, kinda cradle the bottom of the lens. You're gonna be able to support the weight a little bit easier, not that it's that heavy, but it keeps your elbows in tighter to your body, and so it's a more stable position for holding the camera, and so that's just a good technique to have going forward. If you look at professional photographers, that's how they hold the camera. Now, this camera has a lot of different features, and a lot of them can be turned back and forth between auto and manual. We're gonna be talking about all of these. You want to know how to work with then manually, so that if you have the time, and you're willing to put out the effort, and you know how to do it, you can set your camera up to do exactly what you want it to do. It's perfectly okay to use this camera in as many auto settings as you want to use, but I think it's good for you to know how is it working manually. That way, if you have it in automatic, and it's not doing exactly what you want, you can get in there and manually control it. I tend to be a little bit biased, and I prefer to using the manual modes as often as possible, but feel free to use as many automatic modes as works for you. But, I think if you know things manually, it's good for you in the long run. Now, if you'd like to know more about general photography, my top class is the Fundamentals of Photography. You can take a look at that at the Creative Live website, and we owe much more into lighting, and composition, working with images on the computer, and then of course, taking images with shutter speeds, apertures, ISOs, dealing with focus, depth of field, and all of those sorts of things. And so, that's something to take a look at if you want something beyond just knowing how this particular camera works.
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Ratings and Reviews
John Simpson
I highly recommend this class! Been shooting Nikon for 40+ years and decided to give my Nikon gear to my daughter and go the smaller and lighter Fuji X-T2 for travel. Excellent camera and this course was outstanding in helping me learn how to use the camera. I have watched a number of Nikon oriented instructional videos. This video by John Greengo is the best organized and informative presentation I have ever watched.
a Creativelive Student
Really appreciate John putting these Fast Start Series together. Went through part of the training waiting on my Fujifilm X-T20 to arrive, which did today. That allowed me to dive into the menu settings and get the camera ready to use. I found that we are on Firmware 3.0, so, I have some updates to get installed. The training was great and informative as always. Don't hesitate to look for his Fast Start for your particular camera, and the in-depth training on Photography Fundamentals. It is well worth your time and money to get this training, especially if you are an amateur like myself, but, thanks to John Greengo I am quickly learning to use my camera in Manual Mode, most of the time.
Monroe Nevels
We all learn from different methods. I, for one, learn best by watching you while teaching, and being able to work along side you, with my camera in hand, and then follow you. I highly recommend this class if you really want to know how to use your camera. Thank you John for helping me to relive my film days, and integrating into Digital. I now have my Fujo X-T2 programmed and I LOVE IT!
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