How to Correct for Perspective
Lesson 17 from: Get The Most Out of Your Photos with Capture One Pro 10David Grover
How to Correct for Perspective
Lesson 17 from: Get The Most Out of Your Photos with Capture One Pro 10David Grover
Lessons
Introduction
08:11 2What's Possible with Capture One: Quick Edit
06:50 3Capture One Versions: Installation Basics
02:19 4Interface Introduction and Customization
27:16 5The Power of Keyboard Shortcuts
09:27 6Image Management Basics
10:38 7Organization Best Practices
09:53 8Building your First Catalog
19:47Image File Management Automation
06:42 10Advanced Catalog Organization
17:41 11How to Add Meta Data
12:42 12Searching and Filtering Techniques
11:31 13Further Catalog Strategies
07:09 14Basic Selecting, Rating and Culling Techniques
15:31 15Advanced Selecting, Rating and Culling Techniques
20:54 16Basic Composing Techniques: Cropping, Rotation, Straightening
09:29 17How to Correct for Perspective
12:35 18Basic Tool Behavior
11:04 19Tool Basics Part 1
22:44 20Tool Basics Part 2
06:34 21Converting to Black and White and Adding Grain
10:13 22How to Apply Image Adjustments Globally
08:02 23Sharpening and Noise Reduction
09:58 24How to Create and Save Styles and Presets
07:40 25Why Should You Shoot Tethered?
02:26 26How to Set-Up Your Tethered Hardware
02:15 27How To Set Up A Tethered Photoshoot Project
11:07 28Basic Session Workflow Organizing And Making Selects
21:45 29Basic Session Workflow Exporting
05:44 30Advanced Session Workflow
15:00 31Creating Selections With Smart Albums
06:20 32Advanced Exporting
09:03 33Saving Session Templates
03:14 34Collaborating On Set With Capture Pilot
17:45 35Using The Color Editor Basic Color Adjustment
15:26 36Skin Tone Adjustments
09:30 37Color Grading Using The Color Balance Tool
12:54 38Image Processing Demo Perfecting Color
08:11 39Create Masks for Local Adjustments using Brushes & Gradients
12:31 40Advanced Local Adjustments using Masks
17:15 41Dodging and Burning in Capture One
11:30 42Creating Local Adjustments with the Color Editor
07:15 43How to Use Local Adjustment Masks for Color Editing
03:43 44How to Remove Objects in your Image
09:07 45Image Processing Demo: Local Adjustments
05:57 46Exporting with File>Export
08:07 47Export Strategies and Proofing Previews with Process Recipes
11:49 48How to Export for Social Media
05:11 49More Clever Tricks with Capture One Pro 10
05:57 50Final Q&A
13:11Lesson Info
How to Correct for Perspective
So let's grab this shot and just reset 'cause we've got a few options down here for adjusting keystoning, as we know. So typical problem when you point the camera and you look up at a building as such, it looks like the building is falling over so we've got a few ways to deal with this. You can either dial it in by eye, for example. So if we just grab the vertical slider, we can just pull that around and the horizontal slider and get something to where we think we need to be. We've also got this Aspect slider which we can use to sort of stretch out the image or compress the image like so. But that's kind of not the most easy way to do it. It's good, you'll see it on a few images that I adjust. Sometimes that, if you remember the earlier lesson, the iceberg shot that we first did, we could have made that a bit bigger and a bit taller just by playing with the aspect ratio. So the Keystone tool, it's not necessarily about just making buildings look straight, it's about manipulating images...
as well. So rather than pulling sliders around, you'll see we've got access to three little cursor tools down here as well. So they're the same as these ones up here. So Keystone Vertical, Keystone Horizontal and both of them, horizontal and vertical together. So this one's a pretty easy one to correct. It we choose the cursor tool here, or here, it's the same thing, we get two vertical lines superimposed on the image. So these circles we can grab and we can places these basically on the error. So we're describing to Capture One the current shape of the object. So if we just drag them over here and drag them over here, then we're saying this is the error on our shot, you want to make that vertical. So in the middle you'll see, if it's a bit hard to see I'll zoom in, an Apply button pops up in the center. So as soon as we click that, then the calculation for vertical, horizontal is automatically done based on the error that you've described. So if I press V now, then that gets rid of my cropped area and then now we're pretty good. If you want to adjust that, then by default the amount is always set to 80% and there's a reason for that. 100% would give you the mathematically perfect correction but it actually looks a little bit strange. 'Cause if you image when you stand in front of a building yourself and look up, it does naturally look like it's, the verticals are converging a bit. So what we've found is that we have this at 100%, it's a bit too good. The correction is not really sort of believable enough. So, by default we've set this to 80% which gives a pretty good correction but just enough to it not to look strange. This is where the Aspect comes into play again as well. 'Cause sometimes if you've done a heavier correction, it can sort of change the dynamics of the object a little bit. It might look a bit too stretched, it might look a bit too compressed. So if you grab Aspect, then we can make it taller or we can make it more squat as such. So if we just wanted to stretch that a bit, then we can very easily do so. Works, whoops, escape out of that, it works really well on a whole bunch a sort of subjects like if we grab this building here, the Mercedes-Benz Museum. Just needs a little subtle correction. Again, if we click on the Aspect Ratio one, drag these to the error at the side, like so, click Apply and then straight away, it's pretty good. What you might find if the correction is pretty heavy, let's just press C for Crop, and we just think, "oh you know what, I just wish I could extend that crop a bit," that's a pretty easy sky, I can just blend that in Photoshop or something like that. Wouldn't it be nice if I could just crop outside of the image? So if we go back to our Crop tool, there's a handy check box called Crop Outside of Image. So if we tick that, then we're no longer constrained by the image and then we can move outside of that boundary area. So when I process that out, I'm gonna get that black line at the top but we can just, very simply with the software of our choice, bring that blue sky back in. So especially here on the outside, if we just wanted a bit more there, you wanted to get all the flags, we could pretty much easily fix all of that just with a bit of content aware fit on all those sides. So that's Crop Outside of Image on that check box there. As I said, pretty simple to use. Personally, I would always go for trying the cursor tool result first. So bring up that cursor tool, describe the error, pretty fast to do, hit the Apply button, and then if you think it needs a little bit of polishing or it's not quite right, then you can apply that as well. It will also influence the rotation value. You see this is a value that was based also on the aspect correction. So if you feel that's not entirely correct, than of course you can either use your Straighten tool, whoops, not like that (laughing). You can use your Crop tool and then you can just tweak, teak a little bit as well. By default again when you're rotating it, it brings up that grid. But if you find that distracting, you can turn turn that off. But it's quite nice to able to just see a whole bunch of vertical lines to just mimic up against the building. And again in this situation, if we turn on Crop Outside, then we can just move that out, move that out and just quite easily fill in those different areas as well. Any questions on that, Jim? Great question. Okay. One of our students would like to know if they can quickly see a before and after? Like a quick, is there a -- Excellent question. Is there a quick way to see a before and after? Yes and no (laughing). It's probably one of the most asked questions that I get and I always have to say no which is a little bit sad of course. There is no like, quick button of such that gives you a before and after. You've got a couple of choices. What actually works quite nicely, if you do Command+R, that resets the whole image, resets everything back to default. Then if you do Command+Z, that undoes that. So that just kind of does back and forth. So Command+R, Command+Z, and that takes you back to the previous state. So that's one thing you can do. Or if you want to kind of look side-by-side, we've got, let's say we just open this guy here. And then you want to see well how did that look sort of straight out of camera. As we mentioned briefly before, with our variance we can clone a variant or we can make a new variant. So if I say New Variant, that will give me a virtual copy with no adjustments. So then we can look at this one here and this one, I'm just Command+Selecting the two. And if we hid our thumbnails we can see them next to each other. So that's how it came out of camera, that's how we are now. So that's really your two choices. I mean, virtual copies like this cloning variance, they don't take up tons of disk space because we're not duplicating the raw data, we're just making another preview with a different instruction set. So it's not like you're going to add tons of gigabytes to your catalogs or sessions by doing this, it's just another preview file. So it's a tiny amount. So this gives you a nice way to look side-by-side. But if you're happy with just, bring up the image and saying Command+R to reset and then Command+Z to undo the reset, then you can see like so. How's that Jim? Terrific, that's great. Andy O. would like to know, is there a way to force constrain a vertical crop ratio? Force constrain a vertical crop? Does he mean, when you setup a ratio, let's just pick four by five, what will happen is, that will, you can force it either way. So if I kind of squish the crop down, it'll do five by four. If I then aggressively squash the crop this way, it'll give me four by five. So hopefully that's what Andy was asking. It basically means that you don't have to setup a four by five ratio and a five by four ratio. It's the same thing. It's just how you manipulate the crop with the tool, like so or like so to give you those two different options. So hopefully that answers Andy's question. Yep, I think so. (David laughing) And this from Lewis, can you have a set of grids that are over the entire image and not move with your crop? Let's think. Let's turn on Grids, and, oh that's Focus Mask, Grids and Guides. Well you can add any number of these guides so maybe that would be sufficient but let me just check Preferences. I think that answers the question, that's good. Let's see, grid, When Grid and Guides On, there we go, yes. So in Crop Preferences, When Grid and Guides On, which is this one, that will show the grid. Now if we do the crop, that's still gonna move with the crop as such. So probably what their best bet is, if we just turn this During Drag Only, these two guides by default, you get one vertical, one horizontal. If we go to View, I think it is, we've got Add Guide, Horizontal and Vertical, and there's a shortcut as well, Comma and Period. So if I press Comma, then I get another one up and we can set that where we like. If I press Dot, then we can drag them around as we please, like so. So that's a good solution if you're shooting in the studio still life and you want to match, you know verticals and orientate product around those levels and that's a good way to do it. So that's View, Add Guide, Horizontal, Vertical, like so. Great, are there rulers? No, as such. Okay. Least unless I missed something but I'm pretty sure we don't have a ruler. No, you get the label on the side. So if we press C for Crop, you get the labels so you can see the dimensions and we can change it, inches, pixels, centimeters down here. So that's kind of like a ruler I guess. (David laughing) Cool. Yeah. And how do you clear a crop? Well you can either click outside of the crop, so let's turn off my guides. So if I Shift+Click, let's just do a crop here, let's say that really wasn't the right crop, so if you just tap anywhere once outside of the crop, then it takes it away. But personally, I find it's easier just to Shift+Click and then draw the crop where you want because that saves you an action. So hold you Shift key down, draw and how ever it was before, you can just simply disregard it like so without having to perhaps reset the crop.
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Ratings and Reviews
Stef
This is a good overview of Capture One 10. The course is well structured and presented logically and progressively with clear and concise examples. The software is intricate and the amount of details presented will benefit from a second or third viewing, along with sufficient practice. David is an excellent teacher, slow enough to follow, fast enough to keep the listener's interest. I would agree with a previous reviewer that the shooting session was uninspired but the tethered demo was thoroughly useful nevertheless for someone to become an assistant, for instance. If you have ever used LR in this role, you will appreciate the power and stability of C1 for tethering. With regards to the comment about this class being non-creative; before you can run you have to walk and this course is all about understanding how to operate the software not about what you eventually want to do with it. Capture One is well designed, speedy and its homogeneous interface makes it easy to get to a result once you have a good knowledge of its layout and principles, compared for example with LR which is all over the place with modes, inconsistent and slow operations. Likewise, the C1 color editor is miles ahead of LR color functions, in simplicity and overall efficiency. This class is about mechanics for a reason; creativity is a parallel stream. It would have been beneficial to have a module highlighting major differences with LR for people migrating to Capture One as the word on the street is that C1 is hard. I would suggest to listen in to convince yourself of the contrary. All in all, I recommend this class; it is time well invested if you want to become more comfortable with Capture One and discover its potential.
Maria Baptiste
I recently purchased Capture One because I needed a RAW converter that was more dependable and also more reliable when it came to shooting tethered. I also noticed that many of the photogs I follow really enjoy using Capture One and rave about its efficiency. After looking at a few YouTube videos I decided that I needed something more thorough and of course CreativeLive delivered. This is an excellent course and David Grover is a superb instructor. His in depth and thorough knowledge of the software is obvious but his manner of speaking and the simplicity with which he provides directions makes it easy to learn Capture One and lets you appreciate a sophisticated and expertly engineered software. If you're working with Capture One 11, layers is a little different than in version 10 but otherwise everything David discusses is the same. I thoroughly enjoyed the course and will continue to refer back to sections as needed. Thank you Creative Live and David Grover!!
user-b05602
The course is excellent and David does a nice job. However, I'm an advanced armature, not a professional. I had my own personal color darkroom, then Photoshop/Bridge, and NIK which I still use occasionally. My intention is to rely on Capture One which I purchased about 90 days ago. I would have appreciated a SIMPLE, here is how you load (Import) an image, "save" or "save as" and how to simply export an image (Variant). Yes those items are covered but, David has a tendency to casually and very quickly jump from Tool Tabs or Cursor Tools or the Tool Bar and then magically it's done and he has moved on. How did he do it. Based on David's training, I love the results I get with Capture One Pro. Yes, I know this is not Photoshop - it's much better. I never used Lightroom. I added variant to my vocabulary and I understand all the tools. I still struggle with the simple import, save, save as, and export of a image I worked on and cropped, then trying to consistently open that image as I see it in Capture One Pro. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't and I don't know why. I will continue to re-review the course materials and I will figure it out. I know there is something simple I missed as David navigated the various tools and pull downs. I recommend this class but it does little for the armature. Capture One Pro is second nature to him and he knows all the ins and outs. I would help me a lot if he just add a 5 minute intro, importing an image from a folder, just crop it, then export the variant and open it in Photoshop.
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