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Hair & Makeup Demo: Big Hair and Light Skin with Amanda

so what we're doing now is we've put amanda into here in my cap and we put her here we sit here here already because that can take a good twenty minutes and we've left a couple of strands out there for you now over the last twenty years I've watched the evolution of here and make up and I was there when the jennifer aniston rachel cap came in and obviously everybody on the planet had it I was there when the slicing came in but right now what in for us is a large luce wave and we accommodate all of our clients based on the sort of hear that they have sandra came in with naturally tight curls so we talked to her curls so that they were loose in large and then pulled them out for her but we still maintained the way sandra looks naturally obviously t y has a gorgeous froyo and we worked here all of her here stiles around what her beautiful here does marijuana has thick thick lots of lots of here and clearly here and we defined her curl and smooth the cuticle with nice big soft curls and th...

en blew her here with the fan and then amanda has long straight fine here and so we styled and killed her here and then we depended exactly like this so what simone is doing is she's using the curling tongue she sitting the curl and she pulls the tongue out and the girl is still hot at this stage and then what she does as she holds it with a little pin and she clips it together so not dissimilar to the way we used to roll here in rollers or hot rollers this is just a really great way to get a volume and to get movement yeah yeah so also um talk about you can you can talk about how the direction that you choose to roll you're here in and that how easy this is to dio and so the most important thing for me that I don't take the hair and wrap it around the tong I actually opened the tongue up and stop pulling the hair through and at the same time I'm twisting so the whole a strand of hayes gliding through and I'm smoothing it at the same time so I'm creating a curl and creating smoothness doing again do another demo if you wanna come close so maybe so obviously the most incredible thing at the moment about here tim that way a little bit more yeah yeah is that we team to see here seems so we tend to see the same theme coming so for most of our clients they are getting this here see it exactly like this so this way I'm rolling under if I've got someone with lots of lots of here and I don't want the girls to come out too far I can offer roll sideways and I do my section sort of this way around the bottom that gives them more dropped lusa kill more torque the bottom but we finally hey I want to create a much volume as possible so I tend to go this way creating lift and then the girl under so obviously when she's holding the tongs parallel to the ground then the cool is going to come this way when it's cascades down and if she holds it parallel or or horizontally back away from the face then the cool is going to read away from the face and rip into itself so it's going to get more volume if she's holding it parallel and it's going toe unwind nice and full because it's going to pull away from the crown and then unfold that way right okay and I'll do you setting lotion before I start talking I spread all through their hair and then rush it through with a big pedal brash and spread to it a little bit damp with ease rush it through sometimes I'll get the hair dryer and just dried into the hair them breasts through again so it's a little stuck together because if this tends to do that this is white sand setting lotion um which gives in here hold it's quite amazing isn't it so with regards to were saying tongue ing these record curling tongs so a lot of people know them is curling irons or that we call them killing tongues that bean tongue since the eighties so we call it talking curling tongs so for the people out there that are going what is tongue in that's one of the christians that's what we talk about we using killing tongues or curling wands or a curling iron so we call it talking so please just hate desire just find excuse my curls smoother more rounded bigger cool do we headed the ght here it's a fact in we do it's not plugged in if you get me out of nowhere he's actually ok you carry on and I'm going to go and get someone a what was it like one inter what what I think this is a one inch wanted these sometimes you get one that's a little bit bigger I find that doesn't tend to hold a much that drops out a lot more although with the spray it things tend to hold you know here that really doesn't call wilco and stain on and you can also curl it too it's a little bit crunchy sometimes when I pull it out sprayed on um it goes hard but then I could brush it out and we'll still hold on it'll have bounced and shine is great and simone I just wantedto let people know out there online that because we're getting a lot of questions about people saying what's that what's that what's that if you go to the forum for soos class there is a section on makeup and there's information from simona they're showing a great place to go get that those answers to those questions okay so another um question that will get asked a lot and I do right on my block another christian we get asked a lot is we use straightening irons all of the time but we don't use straightening irons to straight in here the days of having did straight here are pretty much gone in terms of fashion for here every now and then I will get a client that comes in with completely straight here that wants completely straight here but that would be very quite ria actually so the straightening irons are used to kill smart is using a cooling tongue to get around a girl and a nice bouncy princess type girl but if you want that sort of rock star sort of kim kardashian type kill or flick back you can use the straightening irons to curl the same way you kill riven with a a pierce is is is really the same way we kill so I'm okay tomorrow you can do this on the front of mine with an iron and you can see how we kill you know go on that touched your sex and go through the front so again it's the same thing my god the hair through but it's always flat I'm not letting the strand twist on itself sometimes if it grips a bit souse got a bit of hair spray no here it'll catch but you just open up the um th days a little bit and let it slide through so it'll give you that sort of a girl so it's a different type of killer that got out of that beach e kill or that loose sort of can also vary by not pulling the end right through or pulling it on an angle so that ends a straight I have to insist reiter it's a little bit more relaxed to be more more rock star also something that's really popular with what we're doing at the moment is we're sitting here like amanda's we're getting that nice tight girl now obviously the thicker and the more naturally curly here here is the more it's going to hold cool because amanda his fine straight here it's not going to hope hill it's quite the same way but what we then do is we take the curl out so we drop it out once it's cooled down because that means it sit and then we brush it through and the killer's just all bounce up such a nice big here now maybe five years ago ten years ago we would leave the curl structured but the fashion now is to have big volume here again but with a curl in it so we tend to kill it and then brush it out so it's sort of like the opposite of sea he it's not as tight on the end of that first one that first one wraps right around like your england so that's just your sliding through the end a little bit quicker and letting it pull through on an angle through the dhd and great the brush brush your rep agree on in the chat room is wondering if someone has natural very curly long hair how do you work with it instead of changing um so it doesn't look like a rat's nest okay so if you look a tte out first I'll just show you this wood to splash out the kill and brush it together to show you how it all grips and is a big soft volume that's pretty much what we doing at the moment twinned wise with all the photography just because here goes in trains and we tend to look at what's really training what people like also once you hear spray that and then give it volume it goes bigger and bigger and bigger and then you get big sixty here um how does if they come in with naturally curly here the idea of using an iron a tongue or a straightening ianto curl is thatyou're smoothing the cuticle in making a larger more controlled so if kenna came in and said I want my here naturally curly I would leave it naturally clearly but some minor would take the outside strands and she would just wrecked type kills around a wand and just get a natural looking type girl that nice smooth cuticle so that you don't get that sort of natural radical because not many people have a beautiful natural curl every now and then you see somebody with this amazing natural kill but mostly we're trying to smooth it out and make the kill larger I would love to do that samantha yeah that would be ok so um this is kind of something that happens all the time simona quickly rep to hear first and while they're here is calling down and sitting she's going to do a makeup so my client is sitting in the makeup chair for about an hour I don't want them in here and make up longer than an hour because they're going to be in the shoot for an hour to two hours three hours is a long time because every three hours people generally need to eat something or have some sustenance because the energy level start dropping there's a lot of high pressure in a chute teo get it all damn to work through the shoot take amazing shots and maintain that level of fun and that they don't get start yawning people you on when they're tired they're going when they're hungry and they only when they've had enough and so once they've had enough it's kind of time for them to go home and they've had the great experience so I make my makeup at us worked or one hour rule one l for here and makeup so she'll ripple of her here as quickly as possible into those pins she sprayed it with it sitting spray and then she's gonna go straight into the makeup at this time in the studio I walk away okay I think it's really important for the photographer now to walk away from the shoot and allow your client in your makeup artists to just have some quiet time um I always employed make about that a very gentle by nature that tach really nicely to the face that make you feel very relaxed that when you're having you here and make up done now remember for the mom client which is the family first demographic that we often talk about what I'm going to talk about tomorrow in marketing to have a quiet hour with no children where somebody is doing that to your hair and makeup is one of the best experiences you can have and if it's a family shoot I make sure dead comes in and takes the children out of the studio and leaves mom for one hour it is the best thing for a woman to experience having here here and make up done with no kids ok so you talk about what you're doing there so what I've done I work a little bit better friend if I know I'm going to do really smoky eye I tend to do the eyelids first and all the dark shading and everything liner doing all that first and then I clean away under my eye and then I do on my concealing in the rest of my foundation so I've done exactly that of prep the eyelid concealer and have used a mac I paint which is x like it's a waterproof eye shadow base and any aisha they put over the top sticks really well in lasts all day and also the color becomes nice and intense so that's sort of just a tried and I'm sitting in with some just a really neutral matt um soft sort ofthe torpey color um on the my bar lead which is this part of amanda's eye I guess standing up towards the socket line he it's one thing I do want to address trends also happen in makeup makeup changes but not a lot a lot of the structure of makeup hasn't changed what changes through colors we use frostings you know there are trains with glasses and then met lips and remember back in the late night he's what we went through the did lip phase where everything was either purple or completely neutral and we all looked like real corpses because we had you know pale faces big slices in our colors oh god that was a horrible time for glamour really really waas so what's mine is saying is that the moment one of the big train says to not put the foundation on until after so everybody knows that the foundation based goes on first but a few dropping product on the cheeks it stands to reason that it's going to grip to the foundation so now makeup artists of preparing the island doing the eye makeup and then doing the foundation now you can prime your eyelid by using foundation or you can use an eyelid primer and prime ing the island means that the island has quite a lot of oil on it so if you look at most people islands has a nettle shame if you were trying to move product on an island and you haven't primed it with either foundation or a primer you find it very hard to blend your eye makeup because it gets stack on the oil off your lid so she's prime ing the eyelid with a frosty with a base color so if you look at that look at the screen here and what I'm going to do now is I'm going to show you this system now for the people that have just bought the makeup cards this is what they bought they've bought a makeup guide that they can print about a living by sixteen on eleven sixteen that they can laminate and use in their makeup studio so this makeup guide I design because when I would ask people how they wanted me here and makeup they would say I want smoky eyes so you would do smoky eyes and then they'd say now I looked like a vampire I looked like you know um you know it wasn't translating very well what people wanting what they hear makeup so I did a natural light medium dark and smoky to show people what it actually looked like now what I do is I hold this card up and I just showed them so this is laminated and so when you get my makeup cards you can print this out and just have it sitting on your makeup table you khun literally show it to your client and say how would you like your makeup and she can say I'm more of a medium kind of girl and she can actually visually see it the best patters is makeup artists have started to buy them because they find they can have them in their kit and just show people and say how do you want your makeup and she considered the makeup artist I want doc so that guide there in itself is just the best part about it that's what I designed it for this to have it on the makeup table then what I did was put a kitten there to show you issue practice make up it will show you this process that someone is going through now so samonas it's stage one she has got the lightest colored makeup and she has covered the whole lid from the lashes right up to the brow she's prepared the whole lid with her lightest color if you want to get technical we look at the makeup pads this is how each of those makeups photograph in natural line so we've got natural light medium dark and smoky and that's how each of them look when they finished and photographed and so that gives you a significant sort of look at how dark you want you make up and help you know how strong you want you make up a lot of people will get a smoky eye done and think that their eyes are very black and then they have a look at them in camera and realized that it wasn't his doctors they thought itwas so it's really good that we showed the makeup cads oh I was gonna say I leslie leave photo asked so does that translate to film or does the artists have to go a little bit darker so the ratio between what it looks like on the card versus what you see I actually think it looks I actually think it looks a little lighter than it does in real life however you can't fall into the trap of having a client say I'm really worried my eye makeup is too dark and you're going darbelnet the river it it won't look that dark because it happens all the time and I will often say to my makeup at us for some reason it's their work it's like telling a photographer you hate a shark and they've taken it it's your shot right it feels like they're kicking in the face but they go to a hate that shot and you think you hate it you know they're talking about themselves but you're hearing they hate your wick I make about this will do somebody's makeup and when they leave the room I will say to my client a happy with you here maker and if they look at me and go you know I tried to tell her I think it's too dark um I will go back to the make about this and I'll say her eyes are too dark bring them down now I don't say do you think her eyes are too dark I'm the boss here isa to down bring it down and if she goes away in cries afterwards that's not my problem you know I want to talk to hear about what she was it's not what she wants and my makeup artists know this about me so here are the rules when you would work for me as a makeup artist we do not contour the face with branta it looks like bruising and natural light and I have to remove it on photo shop I hate contouring on the face I do not allow blusher into my world unless it's a dusting off pink on the apples of your cheeks because they had blush line is done this ten years ago it looks horrible and I have to photo shop it out because they get these big blow and shadows in the reds and pinks and I think it's horrible remember I'm talking about natural light photography a flesh light might be a different story again not my business I only allow met eye shadows to the eyes I do not want frosted eye shadows in the eyes with the exception off we used a semi shame on t y because we needed a beautiful light color that was going to bounce up her eyes and I loved to make up we do not use a frosted eye shadow on an eye that's over thirty because if you have a wrinkle in your eye and you use a frosting you see if free little reflected crevice now at the moment the trend is dark glossy lips again and um actually going back to glossy and shimmery I should ice it's very hard to find good metz at the moment but mac particularly have beautiful met colors they don't have a lot of them but they do and make up for either it's sephora they currently stock eh beige which is a beautiful base they stalk a good mushroom for the lead in a black and a dark brown fur the contour that is purely met and that looks really really good so obviously those in my role secondly food frosting blusher the most important line on the face for me is this dark line in here because when the chin is forward and down it defines the eye so beautifully so they must be a black line that sits very close to the top violation if you look at all my makeup you will find that black line if you do not put that in and makeup I will burn it in on photo shop and it annoys me that I'm burning it in where my makeup artists know that it is the most important line on the face is that black line so I always I don't want lipstick I want a light dusting of color on the lips and I want glass because I want that light to bounce out glass not a thick makeup lipstick color and so again when you look at every one of my images you will notice a dusting of pink on the cheeks no visible contouring you'll notice natural light lips with glass your notice a black line even on the natural look with a light dusting of pink contour you'll still notice a black line on the top off the eyelash every single one of our clients get half eyelashes on I can't not full eyelashes because they can look to match they either go daisy the cow well they can look a little bit drag crane we don't want daisy the cow we don't want drag queen what we want a sexy half lashes now the half lashes are a normal I'll ish just like this we buy sits of eyelashes in what we do is we catch one of them in half we put half on this side and half on this site took for the cost of one I'll ish it is the one thing that makes each one of their clients go oh my god okay so whilst I've been talking simone is it level three so let's catch up to here she has dusted the whole lid with the lightest color in the biggest brush with the sec and brush down she has covered the contour up to the lead so up to the bit with the lid beans increases in the eye to let grace she has used a nice sort of dusty mushroom pink and that has gone over the whole lead up until this level here it does not go higher than that at level three she has started to bring in a contour which is the darkest color with the smallest brush so as your brushes get smaller your colors get darker then what happens is you start contouring a little see from the outside so if they're going to do a close up of the makeup at this stage she's at level three okay so that explains all how to do that now she is blending so she has a blender and the best blender that all makeup out of seem to be using right now that I have that simona has is the mac blending brush it's a soft branched out brush that does the most beautiful blamed with eye makeup you keep it clean you control with your smallest brush and then you blend with your blender those four brushes and the only bashes you need to pull off a beautiful makeup now what she's doing is after she's done this little contour here and under here she's blending it away across to level four now on a larger I because amanda his cat's eyes so she it it beautiful armand that shapes upwards I have around large eye that goes out this way I bring my dad contra right into the center because I have big eyes the bigger your eyes are the more dark you khun bring into the center and that's how I get a full smoky eye so I can write up to five in six but simone is going to stop right here she's gonna blame to four and then she's going to put lashes on because if she puts too much black on the inside of amanda's eyes she's going to make them look shorter whereas I can do that with a wide because I have a wide long arm and I said the bigger the eyes the further you can go along here right so then what she's kind of day is she's already put this black line in remember the black line that we talked about which is the most important line to me she's going teo do that line again and then she's gonna put half eyelashes on so you can watch that because it looks really cool ledges foundation first okay foundation first I've just cleaned up under the eye um to get any fallout and someone had her base and concealing then I'll do lashes and mascara and got over my black line again okay so while she's doing that uh you can keep the camera on here off now what I do want to show you this there is still one up to the lead step two to fill the lead only with a nice neutral color step three is to contour the sea after you contour the sea you blend it in and state for is to not go over the scene to pupil because we only go halfway where we're bringing in the outside conto on the bottom then we're blending all the way over with a nice dark brush the bigger the eyes the further the dark contour can come into the center and then we're concentrating on that black line making it nice and smooth and then we're putting half eyelashes on so this equates to a very beautiful glamour makeup and it's for all ages so we just less is more with older woman smaller eyes have less of a contra in the center but the same rules apply to everybody so you can go back to here and carry on with that jury always used these little pink egg things to put on the foundation or do you use luxan nose last time you used that and you used to brush yes I uh synthetic brush something like this size to a farm a concealer and do um maybe highlighting and just getting in around the eye because sometimes I can't get my finger quiting but for the foundation I do use the sponges or I've got foundation rushes as well but these are my favorite of mind they call the beautyblender and you washed them sterilized them and use them again I call them stress balls looks like a least raise them let's just freezing water with them before okay I was spraying um fixed plus um on my cotton tip just to clean up underneath the ice fall away I should have her face with something that didn't fix pluses well see what I do when I start is almost dragged the whole face and I put a bit of a fix plus just to hydrate the skin and then do my face out of the top we have a couple of questions and one of them is good uh simona soo what are your thoughts on air brushing the makeup um I do like airbrushing I think it's great for the body for contouring the body but for this I think you have to become a real master at it to do it really well for the face and I just find this really fast I can work really fast with my hands I don't have to fiddle around with the mixture and getting the brush gun not spitting in all of that so I've seen aristo beautifully but I prefer hands on brushes soo did the rules on your cards is a question from vivian photo apply to all ethnicities or is there a difference um yes I think it does we're going to do tie two wives make up nick's because we want to dio uh the opposite make up but the same rules apply in terms of contouring her face heading blush but we're lightening her lips as well this is a few tricks to make her makeup beautiful and your makeup looks so gorgeous and um but it's exactly the same really it's just a few little tricks there I think out of all of the girls t why was the most nervous about having her make up done because she knows that a lot of people could potentially have done who make up really poorly because they do not know how to do your makeup but I knew that simone and you had to do your makeup so I was fully confident it wasn't until afterwards that she went because she realized that it looked so good and she was worried that it could have looked horribly wrong so one of the biggest mistakes people make with your maker when you're black people tend to put put ground make up a new and they tend to because I already have full lips they tend to over part my lips like that on then people don't realize that black skin is not one color all through where it's lighter in the middle and doctor at the edges so a lot of times they would put foundation on dh it's just one time she it's not very flattering I case in nobody's faces one color ever so obviously you have teo that's why we can turn all the rest of it but the truth is is that we are bringing in there that cheek blush um in bouncing the color up in the eyes so it's away something I think we'll do you next anyway and then we can see the difference you khun I'm talking about what are the questions have you got er there's quite a few people asking if you could explain the black line again the most important part I think about the black line what camera my on moment that's on here the most important thing about the black line is when the eye in the chin comes forward and down the eyes really defined right there most dominant line in the eye is the lash line in the inside witte line of the eye when there is black and then the lash line the half flesh line pokes out it is such a beautiful shape wouldn't you say it extends the eye nice and long it defines the eye on the inside they call this but in here the wit line and that this butt up under here the wit line of the eye and the reason it's called the wit liners when it's closed and naturally gets moist and so island falls out of that line a lot and you do have to reapply it so the wet line is important question from each photo does the foundation go onto the neck and arms as well no smiler will blend down onto the throat we never population on the arms because nowadays we have a photo shop button that smooth skin magically in syria point zero seconds and it is so perfect I'll show you that tomorrow that I would not waste my time putting on makeup on anybody's body alexis is wondering if uh you can suggest what to specifically look for to distinguish between the good and a bad makeup artist uh I make every make up artist who wants to come and work for me do a trial and I make them do my makeup for status they generally quite nervous because I told them my rules and how strongly I like my makeup and I've shown them examples you can show a makeup artist my makeup pads and say I want you to create this make up these are the rules and she should be able to recreate their secondly they have to be somebody that you like touching you the face is a very intimate place to touch some makeup artist clamp you hid down with their hand some people are rough some people don't let you know that they're coming into the face of your eyes will be closed and I just touch you with a brush and give you a fright other people prepare in touch of face and are very good at touching your face in the water right in your personal space they breathe on you they talk to you very closely they're right up in there you want them to have an energy around them that makes you feel the way a therapist but the girl said it was like they were in a spy and they're getting the here and make up done that you know the girls have a beautiful energy they're nice and soft they talk softly they always have breath mints they smell nice and their own personal hygiene you like the way they're touching you you feel pampered I'm so if somebody does my hair and make up then I can feel how good they are and that's really important to me obviously they used it quite nervous and secondly I don't have a twenty year old perfect face so if you could do a good makeup on me and here make about me I know you can do that for all of my clients and um and I need you to be exceptional doing here so if I got a makeup artist that was freakishly good at makeup but average it here I would train her further or if she was freakishly good at here but needed more makeup training I would train them further and just say look I like your personality I like you here but your makeups not good enough when they stop crying then you can explain it it doesn't matter because you're going to make it better for them look I have to make two things really clear one of them is you're here to work for me whatever you know about makeup is about to change because I know more not about makeup but how I want photographed so I make that really clear and when I make that clear a lot of makeup better give me a bit of attitude but once they see it come off the camera they one hundred percent get what it is that I asked for and then I look at it like this I do not ask I make about us how much they charge I do not say so how much will you charge for that and have them say what they charge four hundred dollars for half a day I will look at the makeup addison I say sandra I've got two makeups on tuesday and I'm paying a hundred dollars for here and make up each are you available and sandra will say yes to that but I'm not going to take a quote a four hundred when I want to pay one hundred I will ask her if she's available on tuesday at a hundred dollars for here in makeup and she's going to say used to that if she wants the work and if she doesn't I'll ask someone else yeah smart excellent answer questions questions coming back to here for a moment I know we talked that we might be able to talk to the reasoning for the direction of the girls and the other thing I was hoping to speak to is what happens with one on one with short hair comes in what what do you like to see happen what I like to see happen generally with short here is if you look at simona she threw textured here and she knows how to style it most woman was short here do it is the long head or medium head woman that coming the count star they hear the women was short here definitely have a distinct style about the here and often it's cut every six weeks whereas I can cut my hair twice a year um and a lot of woman with long here will come in and not be able to kill it but I'm hearing really meet somebody was shot here that can't style it I asked them how they want it styled and simona khun style anybody short here short here just goes with the cat so you ask them which direction it goes in they'll show I like it like this and this is really important at the end when you've finished your hair mega before you're being photographed go to the bathroom put your hands and make it yours because no matter what we've done to you if you don't look like yourself you're going to height your photographs and I have to ask that question there is a sign on my mirror the makeup aspect of what you're doing is very important at any time this is when you tell us if you're not happy make sure that the question is there for them to feel okay about asking you too change something now if they want to change something and it's against what the makeup want make about this once I will override to make about us to give the client what they want if they want purple lipstick and we're going really and she's like I were purple lipstick then I'll give people upset you've got to give them what they want right fantastic do you ask women to come in with the clean face and clean hair simona asked for you to moisturize usually in the morning and have a clean face she also asked that you have clean dry here not wait here so don't come and wit we're going to have to blow wave it that takes another half now what we want is clean dry here in a moisturized face because then makeup goes on it's not dry and it's really nice of woman washed the here the night before and then come in with nice clean dry here there is nothing worse than a greasy here there is nothing with the duty here and there is nothing within wit here question from piece of the north when just getting started would you recommend as a photographer to learn how to do make up yourself until you can afford a makeup and hair artist yes um if you were doing one single girl then that will for you if you were doing to girls or three girls or more you cannot do that here and make up and shoot because you're fierce client is really when it's time to shoot and you have another two makeups to do and they cannot be sitting there waiting in here and make up while you finish the makeup I think the interesting question about that is I do my own hair makeup if I can't get some minor and I have a single shoot I'll do the hero makeup myself I prefer not to because I can then go and relax while she's doing that I can finish up the jobs I need to do on my studio prepare the studio and walk and fresh and ready to shoot that's really important for may but if I have to do the here make up that's not a problem can we just go came rebecca toe alicia's because this is a really important aspect of what we do what I love about this is eyelashes are the one thing my clients can't do very few of my clients put their own wishes on and when we add eyelashes like this and they see them for the first time it makes them literally gasped out loud and they always say when they leave how can I keep the lessers and we say yeah yeah go out tonight and the like will they still be there tomorrow now now days you can get eyelash extensions stuck on and you know which ruined the base of your eyelashes but they still look fabulous but the best part about it is thies half fleischer's and they just make the eye makeup so sixteen cute half little hearts on the outside going outwards did I answer that question about okay I just slow my heart honey bee is wondering where should one begin looking for a makeup artist oh I think they're a diamond doesn't just magically find them everywhere most um hey dresses everywhere you see if you shoot winnings you'll know a string of makeup artist if you ask a few friends everybody knows it could make up artist you can go to counter you go to hear starless they're make about us for where I find them everywhere and what's mine is doing now is filling in the eyebrows which is very very important eyebrows a very strong feature on the face particularly a very strong feature when you're photographing a face uh what a lot of people don't know about eyebrows is a lot of people brush the eyebrows up and out and you actually brush your eyebrows down and out okay so the natural line of your eyebrows to go straight out and then down here so if you follow that line when you line so why don't we use is a paint so I use a powder brush everybody has a different way of filling in you must use a much lighter color than the brown a lot of people tried to use a brown color that is exactly the same on what you end up doing is blackening the brow so for a medium dark blonde or a medium brown like your brows I would use a dark blond to fill it in and a lot of people don't realize that they try to go in with the same color instead of a lighter color and she's just gonna even her brows up so that when the face is photographed this symmetry and the eyebrows a lot of people don't have very symmetrical eyebrows and we're trying to make it even a question from nadia el how do you choose the eye shadow color does thie eye color coming to play or you just using the same yeah we pretty much use the same pellet one of the things I'll show you is simona has arranged a pellet which she knows around the pellets that I use in all of these air based on these neutral browns so all of them are based on mutual beiges right through the black and there's metas they could be and said that she mazo aside the mets are on this side and the idea is that we work within that pellet and there is warmer and colder there's a code of mushroom in a woman sort of mattering for the lead but how would you determine you've used quite a pink mushroom on amanda so howard why would I should look at the eye color yeah um and I'd like to make sort of cool browns with gray's as well just so it's not all great because that can sometimes be too cold but I look at the icon if I want to enhance the green eyes and I can go into more brandy colors but um a lot of bronzes come with lots of shimmer and which we don't use so much starch tend to use the warm brown colors is a base so you get a nice close up shot on that um my lashes iran in the lash and I've just got to go over and dock in the lineup don't you wish you woke up like that in the morning you know like they do in the movies straight off the pillow what do your thought on freckles I love freckles you know what that would be a signature shot on my studio that girl hates her freckles and when she walked in and looked at may I took one look good here and I said you are the most beautiful face I have ever seen and she said I hate my freckles must do you I see that defines you if they're so strong some people hate the fickle some people love them you could have covered all of their math that her freckles ab theory doc like they're incredibly dark pigment there is no way you cover hoof rickles um I think the beautiful freak was a gorgeous some people want to remove some people dying personal choice yeah very hard to cover completely fair that yeah they have to choose the color in between the lightest part of the skin and the freckles somewhere in between otherwise they're gonna have to do for the rest of their body your freckled sandra that if you attempt to cover them it's fake it is extremely faked um because you can't bear there's such a variation in the color is dark there's light there's me there's everything in between and it also depends on the time of year I will pop in the summer like I come out and I look in the mirror and I let it go whoa so you're pigment goes doc I which makes your vehicle's looked act that sun will pop them and then in the winter I become very pale comparatively yeah he sent your freckles I think people say the freckles on you know fickle should be embraced I think they're cute yeah I read I got criticized recently on my blog's for taking it before shot of the girl and apparently I removed two freckles and I don't even remember it being a conversation I had with here but once I put make up on the little freckles on her nose were gone and somebody wrote a derogatory coming on my blogged about you know sweeping away everything on his face I didn't mean for it teo look over retouched you know but the thing is some people do get a little bit upset about that it's the same thing between the argument is is she bit unnatural or is she better with a full face of makeup on her kids it's her choice she wants to wear a full face of makeup that's what she gets if she wants natural freckles that's what she gets but we do ask we don't just assume you want everything covered like blue eyes or green eyes is it green shadow or like what makes the eyes pop what opposite color on the color wheel so can't green eyes it's ah sort of a warm brown aura bronte tone something that's got a bit of orange in it you can use the same color but it should be lighter than your own eyes if you want to do green on green don't overpower your eye color with dr green shadow and so a lot of people think blue eyes have blue why should I want green arlene dix is asking are there any special techniques for under I've puffin it's um models hears him roid cream there they do they used him like rain because it shrinks blood vessels there are now products with you have that really bad sec of puffiness other than teabags and cucumbers and all the things to relax your isa good night good night sleep there are now product literally you can pet on that just go tight in pull it tight it washes off a night but it is I've seen it they trial it and it is one of an amazing product that just sort of sat expect puffy eyes but if you have naturally puffy eyes and photo shops going obviously deal with that makeup never gonna cover it puffy eyes adjust something some people have yeah actually that brings up a really good point so minor has this amazing pigment that she uses a lot of their sort of persian girls that sort of arabic sort of dark gorgeous have really black rings under their eyes I'm quite naturally and she covers that up she has this amazing pigment that neutralizes that dark under there and so there's lots of little secrets that makeup artists have in their little magic kits that that hide things that that is also the green makeup which removes birth max on the face of people want their birth max hidden you know the bright reared both max can be fully covered with green makeup and there's also a product now that's amona has that can remove ted o's if you really want today's removed you can cover up literally pets on the color off your skin and I'm assuming angelina jolie has their most of her movies you do neutralize the color's off the tattoo first and then create kind of like another layer of skin color over the top so it's quite a bit of work and a bit of practice to get it right so the question is is it an art form when you have a make up at us with this sort of experience can somebody like me who could just do the very basics that doesn't have a ll this other staff achieve a similar result and the difference would be this I can take my here and make up to a level that looks good photographed but I will never be able to get it to a perfect level that simona can I can do the here and make up and connect with my client on a personal level but I cannot offer the pampering session that's the mona kane because I don't know how to do all of that so I can almost achieved the same result without the joy for my client and without the finished nous that the client gets you know that with a proper here and make up artist they feel like they've been really treated beautifully and if somebody is spending a thousand dollars with you or two thousand dollars with you or three thousand dollars with you then they deserve that right don't need to be and feel that pampered is a service we're gonna talk about service tomorrow because it's a big part of what I offer subject america uh be alan stewart you might remember him from our in studio class a couple weeks ago he's wondering uh if you have any kind of makeup put on male clients never um men look very feminine with makeup on very few moments straight away as soon as you get make up near the face they become incredibly effeminate it and so I would rather the boys be shot harder and had a light and then retouch them if I need to remove something but I never put make up on boys so we have a lot of questions again about the eyelashes sure first of all folks want to know if you have them on me and I don't and then is a natural mind and not and then if you could actually show them again and how you cut them and then where in the I place them that would be wonderful actually um I just shop around and find once that I like that are not too hard and plasticky there's a lot of cheap flashes on the market that don't quite bend into the clients I they looked really good in the box but when you try and get them into a small either broke up and they're really hard to gluing so I like once they're quite soft and natural not not overly think how close can you get my eye so you can see that I have a half flesh on both of my eyes I do a half flesh on both of my eyes every morning so I kept them myself and it took me a little bit of practice to get it right but I put a little bit of glue on a cut the less I get tweezers I picked the tweezers I picked the lash up I david on and I literally balance it right there and I just slip it onto my eye tap it on and in my scar on myself I don't go out without them I even got running with my lashes on they went out jogging I will want not wear any makeup but I would have really gorgeous measures and lip gloss you never know who you're gonna meet when you're running and also I carry business cards in my little nike running pence there's a little pocket about that big and it fits three business cards and twenty dollars so I can stop it a cafe and get a coffee on the way home or if I ran too far I can get care prime you do have to buy a luscious died that our longest in the middle if you're going to do what's it talking about some lashes do start out longer he and naturally go shorter to one sat so I buy the ones that are longest in the middle star can cut them right in the middle there and then go this way on the us thank you so I literally pulled them out like this and obviously we have one less sh longer we want to cut up dead center so I do this every day and I cut it right in the middle like that and then the slash obviously is longest in the middle goes on this side and her slash goes on the side because you wanted longest at the end and the idea is that we're trying to put it on the most out of each of the eye so that when the eyes to camera it's here and it's sweeps out this way because the longer we make the eye the six here it is okay so sexy oil leslie lee photo is asking what are your thoughts about individual lashes oh I like individuals so minor likes individuals they're very hard to do yourself um individuals great so definitely there a little bit more expensive these ones uh work out to be around a dollar a lash and we use one of these here but what I do is art by medium and short and long and then I asked out longest and kind of worked my way to achieve that effect from longer to short out the only problem with individuals they only come in one size per packet so you teo because if you buy long and they start out long than angie come and they still long in the center and it doesn't gleamed with your natural lash off getting longer as it goes thank you so if I look a alki night by the way people love this session right now they cannot get enough of pair of makeup so we dusting pink on the apple of the cheeks it's very important that we just using a little bit of pink on the apples of the cheeks the apples of the cheeks is when you look at the camera and we'll look in the mirror with your lips together smile that little airport comes forward okay so we're gonna just just a bit of color on their lips the face up it's a natural blash no more long contouring through here or dad country through here I want to look at a couple of different things we went through a period of time there where we were doing colored eye makeup we no longer do this it's not in fashion and I don't think it looks very good every now and then somebody would like a beautiful life colored lid and I show them these images and they go back to that beautiful neutral so they show you but like I said over the years makeup trends change the only difference between this makeup here in the makeup we're using is we're just using colors the contour is still the same the highlight is still the same the eyelashes are still the same right now up here read lips red lips come and go in and out of fashion at the moment the red fifties lipper's back so that real fifties met rid looks gorgeous or a glossy red that's not quite so strong so not like that red red lip but more like a red glass that's really in right now so you can go natural you can go right through to read lips with neutral eyes and then you can go through toe a nice strong dark eye with read lips which is very glamour so those options are on the cards to to help you arrive at that point and lip line here so she's dusted a little pink on the apples of the cheeks and nice neutral on the lips too and talk about lips semi um I just do a very softly plying and usually just using neutral color even if I'm going to add a stronger colored glass just to define that out and to maybe sometimes take it a little bit over um I don't tend to overdraw the lips too much when I'm using glass um just a little bit outside the line he and I like this little peake he to be wider rather than sort of a short very deep v so I tend to go out and over this way so question from ya way wish do you use blush with a red lip or just a light bronzer um flash others pain gorgeous took more than your trip ink painting on the complexion and from larry s what do you do on thin lips um still lined them a little bit with I definitely softer colors I wouldn't use a red dawn thing lex um trying enlarge them as comfortable as the client will be with that and then just use a light floss and maybe do the center of the lip a little bit lighter than the outer parts just to make the illusion that they're bigger I've had a client with no lips I've had a client with no top lip in a client with no bottom that you get that you get people small lips you just concentrate on the eyes you know some people have a beautiful mouth and not very big eyes and you concert and they might like beautiful red lips on the you know everybody has a stronger feature and if one knows what their own features but when you do get really small lips just try not to highlight the fact that they're really tiny a bit of glass and gorgeous eye makeup with long lashes will stop looking at the lips anyway yeah so I think um what I've got on the screen now just false amy's doing that they're putting a color on the lips who's gonna gloss it I'm meeting uh sort of like a moisturizing colored colored glass yeah so colored glass very soft peachy slightly pink color just very naturally this is all about natural glossy lips for me always has been I don't like the glitters or the shimmers or any shimmery I hate shimmer shimmer to me is disco you know disco does not belong on your face in my shot okay say a beautiful glass on the lips is always beautiful always looks great to see people with shiny lips I think they're beautiful then what we do now we pull here down we shake it out we spray it we see that how we're gonna go and we're ready to shoot just like that so well we're doing this before she shakes you hear out if you have a look at the screen um I have some mature my caps so when I say the same makeup applies to older women um sometimes as we get older listen more we know this we look better with this makeup on we do not want to have really keeping makeup and leased the client requests it but ultimately every one of these woman are fifty and sixty you know fifty and sixty now is so so gorgeous and fifteen sixty still wants to have beautiful makeup so all of these women here these woman of fifty and the central one that is sixty two all have a medium makeup because if they'd all had a heavy makeup at fifty and sixty that would look too much for them they're all very beautiful girls and the same rules apply exactly the same way of doing maker same rules apply and they can go as dark as they want if they happen to be sixty and they want smoky eyes we will let them have smoky eyes so it doesn't really make a lot of difference as long as your prime ing the eyelid and there are certain things about an older face we fill in lines a lot more than petting onto a smooth face so if there's a wrinkly lid we have to pick the lid up and prime it you know we have to stretch it out but it's still basically the same rules that just had to blend and if you have a good make about us they shouldn't have a problem of blending okay so pulling her kills out hope amanda's going out tonight I think we need thio drinks and then scott your husband internet is wondering if you would publish a watson samonas makeup bag on your blogged okay and he'll come back for a workshop I just don't think well we have an idea uh that we're going to talk to craig about on monday but uh this is such a huge component not only for women to learn their own here and make up but I just don't understand that after twenty years of having a makeup artist I'm still meeting woman that cannot do their own makeup and I'm still meeting photographers who cannot in on our offering really good here and makeup services doesn't it stand to reason in this day and age that the bidding you're here make up looks the video photography is gonna look and that it is the ultimate pampering for a woman to have a photo shoot with a makeup session built into it I mean it seems to me to be the deal breaker between me and other photographers I know at the time five six eight years ago when I was building with studio people are always going to choose my brand over others because they suddenly get this incredible experience tied in a swell so just so you know what we're doing she's released the girl and she's just going through in doing eighties and abet comb through the base because amanda has fine straight here it's going to pop out when she puts a little we taste through the crown yes because I make them do my hair and I can tell immediately yeah immediately simona can is not a hairdresser's she's a makeup artist that is trained to do here there's a difference sometimes I meet hairdressers who are trained and make up but samantha can't blow wave my here like a hairstylist can she has been trained by his dollars she can blow wave like a hairstylist so can I I trained in here when I left school I was I went into the dressing for one year and I can blow dry like a hairdresser can but not many people can a lot of them makeup artists but just don't have that his skill and they need toe up skill in order to be really good at this they really need to be able to do it here make up just so you know simone it's not only a photographer and his being a professional makeup by this for twenty years she's done commercial she's model she's done commercial makeup she's done you know australia's top model she does all those sort of big commercial jobs she loves doing the here and make up just for photo shoots off every day women that aren't they you know amazing model here in makeup what she loves about it ultimately is that she gets to make people feel good simoni runs her own makeup business is a full time job she is simoni janek dot com she runs a winning makeup business and makeup business for television she runs a studio at home as a mom with two six year old girls she has a makeup studio in her house so when I meet her samantha's husband is one of sydney's best wedding photographers um she's bean married to grand monroe you know he's a wedding photographer and yet she never wanted to pick out the camera she's being a makeup artist all these years until she met may and then when she met may she saw what we do and she came and did a couple of shoots with may and straight away she said I want to shoot this because she finally got the connection of what she does with what I do and she saw you know that sort of come together and now she's shooting at an exceptional level because she's been working with me this last year and a half yeah so he's a really good example of putting on the outer less and where the connected to but I'm actually up here just ing on the pink but exactly the same roles of a lie yep more requests for simona to be on creative live another product that I've been using for the last two years or so is this some dust and it's a sort of wet feeling powder that creates hold and sort of greeting your hair so fantastic for girls that don't have that natural if he just sprinkled into the roots the rabbit and get your hair dryer and actually blocked through the hair bit and it just puffs it out and keeps it there and what is it um this one's uh schwartz got coal dust it in isis joining rank it feels like tell compatible with grit yeah so as you tap it in to the crown you said a wiggle it feels wit and itjust grits it just today grips and here just goes doing so for fine here that you want but I don't need volume might I try and make my hair smaller by signing it out but for fine here soon as it goes into the roots just stands up and then at any time I'm gonna get some minor to show you how she uses because that it's really important a lot of people will do here like this and the makeup out of smoke leave let's say you're a photographer in the makeup artist goes home and all of a sudden you're here just goes on your client some minor has this way of putting her hands in and just going in re volumizing the sort of beautiful big bombshell curl and people want to see how she's issues here while we're shooting and it's really such a night but buckley's muff was here I killed it and it was way too much wasn't it so then we use the hair dryer drop it back out because it was just a little bit too bouncy way do with pollination here like that really thick saying things you something probably a blow dried yours first just to get it smoother and get the volume down and then with the setting lotion I same tongued it ended up being a little bit too curly so probably in hindsight with your hair I didn't need to set the front I could have just said the back to keep the coal there and just tongue the front and let the curl sort of fallout as its still hot on that will stretch it just slightly which would I ended up doing with the hair dryers going over it to float out so it's all about hate okay heat stiles here and when they hear calls it sits so if you pull hot rollers out or tongues out quickly and the here goes down and you stretch the hero out at coast stretched out if you wrap it tight hot and then let it cool down while it's tight and then it goes to cold and then you pull it out it'll go doing doing so your idea is to get the best curlers to litigate is cold as possible now the only thing that gets rid of that so let's say you're here bounced right up like this and it was too curly the only way to pull it back down was to reapply hate because it's got a memory he has got a memory and as soon as you applied hate it started to rework again that's the beauty of him so another question is we talked touch on this a little bit earlier from photo gotti at what age do you begin makeup on girls and lashes on girls okay they I I assume everybody under the age of eighteen only gets mascara and lip gloss only unless the mother and them agree on otherwise uh there's a fine line between going with what the teenager wants and going with what the mom wants because if they're arguing you have to be neutral but the truth is is they have to sort that out you have to come to an agreement the most important thing that I don't want to see is a whole lot of seniors getting the here and make up done looking like hollywood starlets at seventeen or sixteen what was your seniors age sixteen seventeen eighteen okay what eighteen two bit different they generally got a car you know I was living on my own and eighteen I did I wasn't at home I was able to choose and my hearing my cap but the seniors shot is got to be a blend between gorgeous leaving your teenage years going into womanhood without looking like a hoochie mama right you know you want that beautiful blend of sophisticated I'm growing up but not yeah I'm not looking trashing what is the best way to shoot older women within short hair um lace is more star lee here exactly how the hair stylist doesn't ask them how they like it a play a nice medium makeup on exactly the same way and um we still that eighty year old woman that I showed him my speedy if used today it's a minor put eyelashes on here what did she say to you after you put her eyelashes on she wanted I just want them all the touches eighty she's like look at my eyelashes and hit her makeup was very neutral powdered very nice little bit of flash and she just flipped over the island flipped over the eyelashes wouldn't stop talking about she was so beautiful that's what makes the biggest difference I find in all the women because they're leads do tend to stick close to their last line so no matter what you put on it kind of disappears anyway so the lashes in recreating the lash line and then just doing soft contouring and be on top of that crease um what sort of works best just defining there fleischman and stretching them out maybe sideways a little bit more out than lots of color going up so we have about seventeen minutes four o'clock well I want it I want to do t wise eyes so that you can see the difference so let's just have a quick jew sh shall we so as I'm photographing I put the girls through lots of things one of the things I like to do is I really like to walk up in bring this fringe down like that so I really like it when the fringe flows across the face and down I think it looks really soft over the eye I'm always bringing the face out the second thing I always do because I put my hands in and pull the here away from the ears because I generally want to see hearings and I feel like if they hear is on the face like this you don't get to see the beautiful shape of your face so I'm constantly pulling the french down opening it up through the years and then bringing the herefords over a period of shooting time when I do this a lot what ultimately happens if she starts getting better and better and leather and this is when simona comes in in fix is what I've been pushing down so she goes straight up into the roots and she uses her fingertips right on that gritty stuff that she's put all through the crown and see how it just pops straight back out again sometimes I do have to go depending on the hair might have to go back and re tease a few sections or even return the hare is really falling but yeah generally just reset by massaging the hair up through the roof so she went up under that by the ears and just wiggled up through the roots of the hear thie other thing we do is flip so you can flip forward all of you here for and you can message it through that way and then spray the here here and then when you flip back um obviously the first thing that happens is that bounce out but because of the way she's pulled the girl out and because then she sited into the roots and she teased down that route line so its teeth all the way around the base is already in there or she has to do is put it fingers in and message it up and it just goes doing and sits back up again often really big here in real life doesn't look that big on camera have you noticed that because obviously the hitters spherical so it drops away and you don't quite get there you know so I'm always like cold bigger oh good bigger omega here bigger and if I can't make it bigger oh I blow it with a hair dryer and make it as biggest I can big hair any questions about that before we go to t wise eyes internet says you're beautiful yeah a question from from kim hill is there is there a trick tio getting the lashes to not come undone during the shoot I'm finding that every shoot I'm having to re glue about an hour into it interesting what you should be using but I used your color and they never come off if I've stuck them on properly what can happen sometimes you get one part of them stuck on the lead um then that will come off but if you get it right into the base of the lashes into the lash line then they should stay the whole time okay the only thing that makes my lashes come after in the way because I used you as well do you know you can buy this at the met counter it is the best glue you can buy the only thing that makes my eyelashes start peeling I asked for open is the if my eyes water because water it's water soluble so if I cry or I wait up into that glue they team to lift off up on the ins but I've been wearing my lashes since six o'clock this morning and I've got no lift in nope on either side so that is definitely the product and as close as you can to the roots of the palace