Lessons

Lesson Info

Develop Module: Auto Adjust, Lens Correction, & Pet Eye

So let's, take a look at some of the other changes that they've made in the developed module remember when we had this image open, you might have noticed that the horizon was crooked? Well, if I go to the crop tool in this version of light room, you'll find that there is a new feature in here that's just button called otto and it's not like like it's going to automatically crop your mission to choose the best composition or anything all it's going to do is the auto setting is related to angle in angles where you'd wrote, take your picture so if I click on auto it's going to try to find the horizon and straighten it. So if you ever have any slightly crooked pictures, feel free to click on the auto button to straighten them out. But that's a new feature you'll find if you look out the grid that I have here, if you're not used to a grid and you want to c one there's a tools menu up here and there's a choice when you're in the crop tool of what kind of overlay he would like, I like to have...

a grid because then if I do things like trying to correct for a building, if the edges of the building like I tilted my camera up in the top of the building looks smaller than the bottom the grid lines help me determine if I straightened things out but if you're not used to that when you go into the crop tool if you don't see a grid just realized that if you go to your crop tool you can go to the top of your screen there's a menu called tools in there you can choose right here to view a grid you can also say to never show that overlay if you find it's always there and you hate it you can also have it show auto you know where only when you move your mouse over the image it would show up that type of thing but that's new and light room sisi is be able to automatically straighten your image other things that we can do in the developed module that air new he has sometimes you're adjusting a picture and when you're done and just eat it let's say you did something that made it so you didn't quite have any black in your image well d case is not going to help me in this area though the simmons has got d hayes applied so let me lower it there now it's obvious we don't have black right? Whenever I'm done adjusting an image and I think I'm ready to move on, I always think about two particular adjustment sliders in light room is kind of finishing techniques or if I don't use these images these particular sliders that my image might not look as good as other people's images, and that is the whites and the blacks sliders what the whites and blacks sliders do is they determine how dark the absolute darkest part of your picture is. Therefore, do you have any black within your image and how bright or dark the absolute brightest part of your picture is? And therefore, do you have any white in your picture? And I find if I think I'm done adjusting my image and I happened and not have any black in it if I end up printing that image and putting on the wall next to somebody else says image in very much does have black in it. My image will look dull in comparison in over ninety percent of the images that I just I always make sure I have a little list area of black. The main time I wouldn't do that is when I want the image to look foggy or hazy, so here's something they do at the end. It's ah feature they might not be aware of when I think I'm gonna just in a picture, I'll end up moving my mouse on top of the word blacks right here, I'll hold down the shift key and I'll double click on it, so I'm holding shift I'm just going to double click on the word blacks and when I do, do you see that it automatically moved the the black slider, it moved it to make sure that I have the tiniest area of black within my picture, you can either double click on the word blacks, or you can double click on the slider itself. It doesn't matter, does the same thing in the same is true for the white slider. So if I look at this image and I choose undue here is with no blacks in it, I hold down the shift key and I double click on the word blacks. There it is with some blacks it's dramatic difference here, but most the time I do this after I'm done, adjust my picture and I think I'm done so the picture looks pretty good to begin with, and it will be a relatively subtle change when I go to the white slider, I can hold downshift doubleclick, and it'll insure that I have white in the image and that doesn't always help, so sometimes I will end up choosing undue after doing that if it doesn't make the match look better. What that's doing is there is a button up here called otto, and if I were to click on auto, it would move most of these sliders that are in the basic area to try to adjust this image for me. Holding down the shift key in double clicking on the name of one of these sliders is telling it to apply auto. But instead of using all the sliders to do it, it means on ly apply auto to this slider. It's not only blacks and whites that that works with you can do it with most of the sliders. That aaron the basic area. So I shall go over here to temperature intent all downshift. Doubleclick, did you see it moved the slider a little bit? I'll go to tent shift, double click. It cannot do it. I can go down here too exposure and in this case, it'll zeroed out. But it can adjust each one of these and therefore I can selectively have it try to figure out what to use. I personally rarely used the auto button itself because I find it doesn't interpret my pictures the way I would like to. It usually makes him a bit too bright and, uh, not quite to my liking, but some people like it right, then a few other things that you might not discover on your own is when I go into the develop module. One of the sections on the right side of my screen is called lenz corrections and with lens corrections. There is this area called upright in upright is a feature that tries to analyze your picture, and if you have it, where you've tilted your camera up a little bit when photographing a building any time you do that, you'll find the top of the building is not as wide as the bottom of the building and therefore these little side lines, which in real life would be verticals are bent are angled, and in here I can go through these settings for upright. If I just choose otto, it'll most likely helped tio fix the image you did have the bend the image to do that, and therefore we have this angle there's, a choice called constrain crop, which would automatically get rid of those empty areas. But what I want to show you is that with these buttons, it might not be obvious that there are keyboard shortcuts for them, so if you use them all the time and the nice know about those, if you just hover over each bun usually don't tell you what the button does, and oftentimes that will tell you what keyboard shark it's our but it won't indicate them here what you need to do in order to be able to cycle through those is hold down control in hit tab, and so if you want to see which setting might be best for this particular image just hold on the control key on mac or windows. I know control is not usually in keyboard shortcuts on the mac, but it is in this case in hit tab and that could speed you up because if you do a lot of images that have architecture in them, I have to switch between these quite frequently and be able to do with my keyboard makes things much quicker. Other things they've done and develop module the's pictures are the best because uh photo shop has a feature designed for getting rid of red eye red eye happens when you have a flash attached to your camera, where the flash is very close to the same level as your lens. The light from the flash goes and hits the back of somebody's eye and reflects off of the back of the eye back into the camera lens. This only happens if the flash is very close to the lens of the camera. If you were to take the flash off the camera and put it way off to the side when it hits the back of the rhine reflects off, it goes at an angle that would not go right back into the camera lens and therefore you wouldn't see red eye well, we've had a red eye tool in light room for quite some time, but it only search for red in your picture. The problem with that is pets don't produce red eye instead, you get like this green eye in the red eye tool wasn't very good at it. Now, I don't have great example images here because I know about red eye in pet I so therefore, if I'm ever going to take a picture with a flash, I take the flash off the camera and I get it away from the lens so that I don't get that. So we had to search through the archives to try to find some images that have this, and I happen to encounter this one s so let's, take a look in light room. We have our tools in this area in this one, supposed to look like our little red eye, and if I click on it now, we have the choice of red eye or pet I I'm gonna choose pat I, and then I can come over here, and I'm just clicking on the image where the eyeball is and there's a choice in here called pupil size, and if it's too low, you will find that it's not going to adjust enough of the image right now. It's distracting to have this overlay on the image in the lower left, we have a choice called tool overlay on, and I usually have it set to auto auto should mean that it only shows up when I have my mouse within the image, and if I move my mouth's outside the image, I don't see that overlay, but pupil size determines how large of an area it's going to try to darken. And so if I get that high enough, I can get it to go all the way out. And then if all you did was darken it, you'd have just a black expanse there s o we do have a choice here called ad catch light, which just adds a tiny little white dot I find oftentimes the white dots a little bit too small, but can do that. Then I could move my mouse over another area and click again, adjust my pupil size to make sure it gets far enough through that I to correct for it. So that's a new feature not only do we have red eye, which was in the old version, we now have pet I, which looks for colors other than red, more like your greens, that type of thing. I'm glad they put that in there, but it's something that I usually try to avoid when I'm taking the photo, as opposed to trying to fix it here, where it's not going to look quite as that's good.