Create a Contour Map Action
Ben Willmore
Lessons
Introduction To Adobe Photoshop
04:05 2Bridge vs. Lightroom
06:39 3Tour of Photoshop Interface
18:21 4Overview of Bridge Workspace
07:42 5Overview of Lightroom Workspace
11:21 6Lightroom Preferences - Saving Documents
08:19 7How To Use Camera Raw in Adobe Photoshop 2020
05:10 8Overview of Basic Adjustment Sliders
13:09Developing Raw Images
30:33 10Editing with the Effects and HLS Tabs
09:12 11How to Save Images
03:37 12Using the Transform Tool
04:48 13Making Selections in Adobe Photoshop 2020
06:03 14Selection Tools
05:55 15Combining Selection Tools
07:37 16Using Automated Selection Tools
17:34 17Quick Mask Mode
05:07 18Select Menu Essentials
21:28 19Using Layers in Adobe Photoshop 2020
13:00 20Align Active Layers
07:29 21Creating a New Layer
06:15 22Creating a Clipping Mask
03:02 23Using Effects on Layers
11:24 24Using Adjustment Layers
16:44 25Using the Shape Tool
04:39 26Create a Layer Mask Using the Selection Tool
04:39 27Masking Multiple Images Together
15:15 28Using Layer Masks to Remove People
10:50 29Using Layer Masks to Replace Sky
10:04 30Adding Texture to Images
09:11 31Layering to Create Realistic Depth
05:35 32Adjustment Layers in Adobe Photoshop 2020
05:29 33Optimizing Grayscale with Levels
10:59 34Adjusting Levels with a Histogram
03:37 35Understanding Curves
06:18 36Editing an Image Using Curves
18:41 37Editing with Shadows/Highlights Adjustment
07:19 38Dodge and Burn Using Quick Mask Mode
07:14 39Editing with Blending Modes
08:04 40Color Theory
05:59 41Curves for Color
16:52 42Hue and Saturation Adjustments
08:59 43Isolating Colors Using Hue/Saturation Adjustment
13:33 44Match Colors Using Numbers
16:59 45Adjusting Skin Tones
05:25 46Retouching Essentials In Adobe Camera Raw
10:52 47Retouching with the Spot Healing Brush
07:53 48Retouching with the Clone Stamp
06:51 49Retouching with the Healing Brush
04:34 50Retouching Using Multiple Retouching Tools
13:07 51Extending an Edge with Content Aware
03:42 52Clone Between Documents
13:19 53Crop Tool
10:07 54Frame Tool
02:59 55Eye Dropper and Color Sampler Tools
08:14 56Paint Brush Tools
13:33 57History Brush Tool
06:27 58Eraser and Gradient Tools
03:06 59Brush Flow and Opacity Settings
04:17 60Blur and Shape Tools
11:06 61Dissolve Mode
09:24 62Multiply Mode
15:29 63Screen Mode
14:08 64Hard Light Mode
14:54 65Hue, Saturation, and Color Modes
11:31 66Smart Filters
11:32 67High Pass Filter
13:40 68Blur Filter
05:59 69Filter Gallery
07:42 70Adaptive Wide Angle Filter
04:43 71Combing Filters and Features
04:45 72Select and Mask
20:04 73Manually Select and Mask
08:08 74Creating a Clean Background
21:19 75Changing the Background
13:34 76Smart Object Overview
08:37 77Nested Smart Objects
09:55 78Scale and Warp Smart Objects
09:08 79Replace Contents
06:55 80Raw Smart Objects
10:20 81Multiple Instances of a Smart Object
12:59 82Creating a Mockup Using Smart Objects
05:42 83Panoramas
13:15 84HDR
11:20 85Focus Stacking
04:02 86Time-lapse
11:18 87Light Painting Composite
08:05 88Remove Moire Patterns
06:11 89Remove Similar Objects At Once
09:52 90Remove Objects Across an Entire Image
05:46 91Replace a Repeating Pattern
06:50 92Clone from Multiple Areas Using the Clone Source Panel
10:27 93Remove an Object with a Complex Background
07:49 94Frequency Separation to Remove Staining and Blemishes
12:27 95Warping
11:03 96Liquify
14:02 97Puppet Warp
12:52 98Displacement Map
10:36 99Polar Coordinates
07:19 100Organize Your Layers
11:02 101Layer Styles: Bevel and Emboss
02:59 102Layer Style: Knockout Deep
12:34 103Blending Options: Blend if
13:18 104Blending Options: Colorize Black and White Image
06:27 105Layer Comps
08:30 106Black-Only Shadows
06:07 107Create a Content Aware Fill Action
08:46 108Create a Desaturate Edges Action
07:42 109Create an Antique Color Action
13:52 110Create a Contour Map Action
10:20 111Faux Sunset Action
07:20 112Photo Credit Action
05:54 113Create Sharable Actions
07:31 114Common Troubleshooting Issues Part 1
10:23 115Common Troubleshooting Issues Part 2
07:57 116Image Compatibility with Lightroom
03:29 117Scratch Disk Is Full
06:02 118Preview Thumbnail
02:10Lesson Info
Create a Contour Map Action
This is a technique that I never want to perform manually, and I would only do through inaction because it takes a lot of steps. This is creating a contour map. If you've ever seen an architectural drawing of, ah, piece of land, you know where it's the contours it describes. The various elevations in the land with a line looks a lot like this. Well, I'm creating something like that based on brightness levels were each one of these lines describes where, like 10% gray would be found in the image, and another line might be where 20% gray is and so on. And so this is how there might be a complex technique that you would only dio if you're willing to apply actions. So let's take a look at it. I'm gonna start off with the original color photograph, and the filter I'm gonna end up using to get the effect is filter. Uh, I think it's die allies and then trace contour traced. Contour means trace around where there's a particular shade of gray, and in here there's a choice called level, and you ...
can move it around. It varies from 0 to It'll draw little lines. Well, those lines air, usually in color if you have a color picture and if you want just one line instead of multiple colored ones, what you need to dio is just convert your image to black and white first. So let's look at how we might be able to apply that multiple times and get an interesting look. So I'm gonna go to my actions panel. I'm going to create a new action, and I'm gonna call this contours gonna hit record. And the first thing I want to do is duplicate this layer. So I'm gonna type Command J controlled game windows to get a duplicate. I then want to pull the color out of that duplicate. I'll do it by image adjustments, de saturate. Then I want to simplify this because if I have it truly traced where there's a particular shade of gray in our picture right now, Most of the time those areas are really complex little details. Well, if I simplify the image, it's gonna be a smoother and result one filter that can help me simple find images called median that's filter noise median in the higher I bring it up, the more smooth this end result will be. So it's a matter of figuring out what setting still lets you recognize what's in the picture. And it's kind of go for the highest setting where you can recognize things because the higher the setting, the smoother the end result will look. Now, that's the image I'm going to use multiple times when running the trace contour filter. So what I'm gonna do right now is change the name of that layer because I want to be able to easily switch toe that layer even if we have a whole bunch of layers in this document by just clicking on it. I don't wanna have to use that one keyboard shark it we used earlier. So I'm gonna double click on the layer, and I'm just gonna give it a name that you would never find in another document. Ah, I might call it action. So I know that it's part of an action. I'll call it Action Target Layer number one or something. I doubt I'm gonna open a document that's gonna have a layer called action Target Layer one. I'm just trying to put in a unique name. And therefore it's not gonna matter if I click on that layer with my mouse and in the actions panel. It records the name because I made up the name and I tried to make sure it would be unique or just put a random string of digits. That's long enough, and you probably won't find that in other documents. Now, I'm gonna have to be using that particular information multiple times, So I'm gonna type Command J to duplicate it So I don't mess up the original and then we'll come in here and apply the trace Contour filter, and I'm going to start off with it. Turned down to a relatively low setting like this. I'm gonna click, OK, and then I want to make the layer that's underneath active. Well, I named that layer specifically for this action with a unique name. I don't think it's gonna be found in other documents. I can just click on it and it doesn't matter that here in the layers panel, it has the name of the layer. Well, as long as that layer name is unique, then that should still work. I'm in a type command J and Onion. Apply the filter again, and I'm just gonna turn it up a little bit. Click OK? And then I'm going to repeat that process I'm going to. In fact, there's one other step I should do. And that is I should set each one of these to multiply mode, because multiply mode would have it combined with what's underneath. But I'll do that later. I'm going to click on the layer that's underneath command J to duplicate, And I'm just gonna repeat that process over and over and over again, moving this up a little bit further each time, then clicking the layer that's underneath command J to duplicate and apply the filter again, which the later that's underneath command J to dupe. Okay, just repeat it over and over again, And that's why I never want to do this manually. Or I should say I only want to do this manually once, and this is one of those techniques. I always record its inaction because it's a pain in the butt to do it every time. I'm just repeating the steps, Okay, we'll call that good enough Now what I need to do is get all of those layers that were just created up above. I need to get him all selected now. Those should always have the same names because they're based on that unique name that I signed below. So I could just hold on the shift key and click on, um, those or I could use my keyboard. Remember that doing? I believe it was option in the bracket. Keys would select the layer that is above. And if you have the shift key, it will add it to the what's already selected. So I can type that a few times. There are many different choices we have available there. With all of them selected. I'm gonna change their blending mode to a chase choice called multiply, which will allow them to combine together. And then we don't need them a separate layers. So I'll go the layer menu in just choose merged layers that will combine together the layers that are currently selected. All right, then what I would like to do is to get the color of the original or the lines were currently seen to be the color of the original picture, so I no longer need this grayscale version. it's already served its purpose. It was the source material for each high applied that action or not, the action, the filter And I don't need it anymore. It has a unique name that I made this part of the action so I can just click on it and drag it to the trash. And it's OK that the name of the layers in there next. What I want to do is turn this layer into a selection The way I turn something into a selection if I want to do it based on its brightness is I switched to the channels panel, and if you don't have the channels panel open on your screen, you can find it right up here. And if you go into the channels panel and move your mouse onto the top, most channel the little picture of it, you're gonna hold on the command key and click on it. That's controlling windows that will load the brightness of that image as a selection, yet ends up loading all the areas that are white, which is the exact opposite of what I need. So I'll go to the select menu in Choose Inverse. Now we have a selection of all those little black lines, and all I'm going to do is throw away this layer because it's on Lee Purpose was to create the selection we currently have. So now if I drag it to the trash, we're gonna end up on the layer that contains original picture, not gonna add a layer mask when I add a layer mask on Lee. The areas that I have selected are going to remain visible, so the rest of the picture will go away. And now what we have is all the lines that those filters created are filled with the original color of the picture. Finally, I want to fill in the checkerboard with white, so I'll go to the bottom of my layers panel, click on the Adjustment layer icon and choose solid color. I'm going to choose White, and then I'm gonna move that layer underneath, and I could probably click on it with my mouse to move it underneath. But if I want to be better at it, I could use my keyboard shortcuts and that would be command control on Windows left bracket would move it down. Remember, option changes, which ones active command actually moves a layer. So now I have my end result, and in my actions panel, I can finally hit Stop and now we contested. Let's revert the image. Let's find the top of that action. Let's hit play and you can see our end result. That's an example of a technique where I would never apply that technique without recording an action to create it. But now I can apply that any time. I want Teoh in a matter of seconds, and there are many techniques that are that way that just end up being complex techniques that make it so actions become essential.
Class Materials
Ratings and Reviews
Noel Ice
I am an avid reader of photoshop books, and an avid watcher of photoshop tutorials. I have attended (internet) several hundred of presentations. In the course of this endeavor, I have found my own favorite photoshop websites and instructors. Creative Live is probably the bargain out there as well as among the top three internet course sites. I have to say with great enthusiasm that the best Photoshop instructor is Ben Willmore. There are many great ones, but truly, he is the best I have come across, and, as indicated above, I have watched literally 100s of tutorials on Photoshop. I have seen all of Ben's courses, I think, and among them, this one is the best by far, and that is saying a lot, because that makes this course the best course on Photoshop to be found anywhere. I am going back and watching it twice. Not only is it comprehensive, but Ben is so familiar with his subject that he is able to explain it like no other. This is crème de la crème of Photoshop classes. I have been wanting to write this review for some time because I have been so thoroughly impressed with everything about this class!
ford smith
Highly recommended if you want to take your Photoshop skills to the next level. Ben Willmore is clear, concise, and professional. He also has a good speaking voice that is not distracting but also keeps you engaged. Lastly, I would recommend that as you become more advanced, increasing the speed of the video (one of the options given on the menu)...especially if you've gone through the course once before and maybe want to watch it again. The double speed is very efficient as you become more advanced in Photoshop. Thanks for the help Ben!
a Creativelive Student
Wow. I cannot communicate the value of this course!! The true value in this course is how the instructor identifies workflows you'll need before you'll ever realize it, repeats important information without it becoming annoying, and explains the "why" behind the techniques so well that even if you forget the exact method, you can figure it out via the principles learned. Excellent value, excellent material, excellent instructor!!!
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