Layer Style: Knockout Deep
Ben Willmore
Lessons
Introduction To Adobe Photoshop
04:05 2Bridge vs. Lightroom
06:39 3Tour of Photoshop Interface
18:21 4Overview of Bridge Workspace
07:42 5Overview of Lightroom Workspace
11:21 6Lightroom Preferences - Saving Documents
08:19 7How To Use Camera Raw in Adobe Photoshop 2020
05:10 8Overview of Basic Adjustment Sliders
13:09Developing Raw Images
30:33 10Editing with the Effects and HLS Tabs
09:12 11How to Save Images
03:37 12Using the Transform Tool
04:48 13Making Selections in Adobe Photoshop 2020
06:03 14Selection Tools
05:55 15Combining Selection Tools
07:37 16Using Automated Selection Tools
17:34 17Quick Mask Mode
05:07 18Select Menu Essentials
21:28 19Using Layers in Adobe Photoshop 2020
13:00 20Align Active Layers
07:29 21Creating a New Layer
06:15 22Creating a Clipping Mask
03:02 23Using Effects on Layers
11:24 24Using Adjustment Layers
16:44 25Using the Shape Tool
04:39 26Create a Layer Mask Using the Selection Tool
04:39 27Masking Multiple Images Together
15:15 28Using Layer Masks to Remove People
10:50 29Using Layer Masks to Replace Sky
10:04 30Adding Texture to Images
09:11 31Layering to Create Realistic Depth
05:35 32Adjustment Layers in Adobe Photoshop 2020
05:29 33Optimizing Grayscale with Levels
10:59 34Adjusting Levels with a Histogram
03:37 35Understanding Curves
06:18 36Editing an Image Using Curves
18:41 37Editing with Shadows/Highlights Adjustment
07:19 38Dodge and Burn Using Quick Mask Mode
07:14 39Editing with Blending Modes
08:04 40Color Theory
05:59 41Curves for Color
16:52 42Hue and Saturation Adjustments
08:59 43Isolating Colors Using Hue/Saturation Adjustment
13:33 44Match Colors Using Numbers
16:59 45Adjusting Skin Tones
05:25 46Retouching Essentials In Adobe Camera Raw
10:52 47Retouching with the Spot Healing Brush
07:53 48Retouching with the Clone Stamp
06:51 49Retouching with the Healing Brush
04:34 50Retouching Using Multiple Retouching Tools
13:07 51Extending an Edge with Content Aware
03:42 52Clone Between Documents
13:19 53Crop Tool
10:07 54Frame Tool
02:59 55Eye Dropper and Color Sampler Tools
08:14 56Paint Brush Tools
13:33 57History Brush Tool
06:27 58Eraser and Gradient Tools
03:06 59Brush Flow and Opacity Settings
04:17 60Blur and Shape Tools
11:06 61Dissolve Mode
09:24 62Multiply Mode
15:29 63Screen Mode
14:08 64Hard Light Mode
14:54 65Hue, Saturation, and Color Modes
11:31 66Smart Filters
11:32 67High Pass Filter
13:40 68Blur Filter
05:59 69Filter Gallery
07:42 70Adaptive Wide Angle Filter
04:43 71Combing Filters and Features
04:45 72Select and Mask
20:04 73Manually Select and Mask
08:08 74Creating a Clean Background
21:19 75Changing the Background
13:34 76Smart Object Overview
08:37 77Nested Smart Objects
09:55 78Scale and Warp Smart Objects
09:08 79Replace Contents
06:55 80Raw Smart Objects
10:20 81Multiple Instances of a Smart Object
12:59 82Creating a Mockup Using Smart Objects
05:42 83Panoramas
13:15 84HDR
11:20 85Focus Stacking
04:02 86Time-lapse
11:18 87Light Painting Composite
08:05 88Remove Moire Patterns
06:11 89Remove Similar Objects At Once
09:52 90Remove Objects Across an Entire Image
05:46 91Replace a Repeating Pattern
06:50 92Clone from Multiple Areas Using the Clone Source Panel
10:27 93Remove an Object with a Complex Background
07:49 94Frequency Separation to Remove Staining and Blemishes
12:27 95Warping
11:03 96Liquify
14:02 97Puppet Warp
12:52 98Displacement Map
10:36 99Polar Coordinates
07:19 100Organize Your Layers
11:02 101Layer Styles: Bevel and Emboss
02:59 102Layer Style: Knockout Deep
12:34 103Blending Options: Blend if
13:18 104Blending Options: Colorize Black and White Image
06:27 105Layer Comps
08:30 106Black-Only Shadows
06:07 107Create a Content Aware Fill Action
08:46 108Create a Desaturate Edges Action
07:42 109Create an Antique Color Action
13:52 110Create a Contour Map Action
10:20 111Faux Sunset Action
07:20 112Photo Credit Action
05:54 113Create Sharable Actions
07:31 114Common Troubleshooting Issues Part 1
10:23 115Common Troubleshooting Issues Part 2
07:57 116Image Compatibility with Lightroom
03:29 117Scratch Disk Is Full
06:02 118Preview Thumbnail
02:10Lesson Info
Layer Style: Knockout Deep
so I often structure my documents using those groups, and here is a very complex image. But when I open the image, you'll see that my layers panel is very easy to understand that obviously what's in here is my retouching and refinements for me means adjustments from just optimizing the image. And then, with this particular serious of images, I do a partial black and white effect which is contained in there. So if I turn off all the eyeballs for these groups, you can see the original image. And then I could turn on the eyeball for my retouching to see how extensive of retouching have done. If I expand the group, I can see that there's a total of three layers. And if you look at him once called weeds be gone, that's usually my overall retouching. And then here I wasn't certain if I really wanted to in the end, get rid of the stuff that was on the right side, but I wanted to try it, so I put it on a separate layer so I could turn on and off. And then I made a separate one for a moving on ...
electronic sign. That's on the left side of the picture, and here's the right side of the picture. I wasn't sure if I wanted to do so anyway. Those are organized, then I usually have my retouching directly above the original picture, and if you structure your document that way above that, you can have adjustment layers and everything works out nicely. So here I'm gonna now Tanami refinements, and let's see if the image changes at all. Yeah, it seems like the color within various areas. I've been enhanced, and if I open that, you can see all the adjustment layers that are contained within each one of them is either curves, adjustment layer or a hue and saturation. Those are the two adjustments that I use most the most, and that's why we covered them. We covered curves in a tonal and adjustment layers lesson as part of Masters Academy, and we covered hue and saturation in a color adjustments lesson. So if you have those lessons, Frito Watch and you'll see that those are all stacked or so many of them now that I put them in a folder. Then up here we have 10 to black and white and there. I have a black and white adjustment layer that's in this layer down here, and then I have some special stuff going up here in. This is stuff we haven't talked about yet. So that's what I want to dive into and show you some special settings we can use related to groups. So if I look here and I turn off the eyeballs and some of these layers would I have inside of this group that's doing the majority? The work here is a black and white adjustment layer. Now I could at a mask to the black and white adjustment layer toe limit where it can affect the picture. The problem I find is having a single mask isn't versatile enough for me in Oftentimes, I want to come back and make additional changes later on. If all the masking I've done it's in a single mask, that makes it much more difficult to be able to have the versatility to come back and adjust things later. So let me show you how I have this set up here. I have a layer where if I hit the backslash key that's right above her Turner, enter the layer mask that's attached to that layer. We'll get over late on the picture so only the area had not seen Read on is affected by this layer. That layer is what is commonly referred to as an empty adjustment layer. What's an empty adjustment layer? It needs an adjustment layer that would not change the look of your picture at all. That would be like going in to do ah levels adjustment layer and just never moving a single slider in levels. Then that would be levels waiting to be used, waiting to have the sliders move, but not actually making a change to the image yet. Well, this one is set up for the trees, and what I wanted it this later to do is to be special. I want this layer to act as a mask for the layer that's below toe limit, where it can affect the image, and I want to be able to dial in exactly how strong that adjustment is applied. Well, let me show you how that could be done. All create a brand new one of these layers, just in case you're not completely falling. What I mean by an empty adjustment layer and then I'll turn these back on to get a better sense. So I'm gonna come down here and create an empty adjustment layer. I could use a, um, brightness and contrast and just don't move the sliders levels don't move the sliders, curves, hue and saturation. There are many different adjustments you can use. The actual type of adjustment does not matter as long as you can get it to not change the appearance of your picture. And that means you shouldn't use a black and white adjustment because it's not possible to not change your picture. Using that, it always makes your inch black and white. So anyway, here I have a levels adjustment layer not going to touch the sliders at all. So I leave this as an empty one. Then I'm going to make a selection or just paint on its mask. However, I like eso. I'll grab this. I'm gonna fill that mask with black and then I'll grab my paintbrush and I will try to get this round circle right here. Can't, uh, I gotta paint with White. You're not actually seeing anything changing the image yet, but I am playing with the mask. So when I let go of the mouse, if you look in the mask, you'll see I painted with white in a tiny air. If I do my little overlay with the backslash key, that's what I've painted on in my mask. So how can I get this toe act like a mask for the layer that's under it? Well, the way I could do that is with a special feature that barely anybody ever notices exists. Um, here's what it is. I'm working on an empty adjustment layer. The empty adjustment layer has a mask attached to it. I go to the bottom of my layers panel. I click on the letters FX and I choose blending options, and that brings up this screen full of choices. We're just gonna look at one choice that's contained within here, and it is called Knockout. The default for knockout is set to none. I'm gonna change it to shallow. What a shallow, mean shallow means Look at the folder I'm currently working on, which is known as a group in caused this layer wherever this layer would usually be visible to poke a hole or mac out any layers that are below it within this folder. So if I choose knockout shallow suddenly it's causing Ah hold to be poked through the layer that is found underneath, and it's allowing it so it preventing it from affecting that area. All he did was set knockout too shallow in what it's doing is looking at this layer in the mask is controlling. Where would this layer usually show up on Lee, where it's white in the mask? So that little part. So then I could create another one of these. I could come in here and let's do another levels adjustment layer. Not gonna move these sliders at all, and I'll fill the mask with black so usually wouldn't apply anywhere. And I'll choose a different area to come in here and paint on. Ah, here. I'm gonna come in and with my paint brush painting with white, I'll get you on the pump and I'm not being precise right now. But imagine I waas. Then I'm going to take that layer, go to the letters FX, choose blending options and say, Let wherever that layer would usually be visible. That's where there's white in the mask. Make that knockout in shallow means Onley through the contents of this folder. So, folks a hole in it and I can continue painting on the mask. Maybe I pain up here. There we go. So now I can have more than one layer that's poking a hole through that black among adjustment layer. Well, what I want to frequently dio is I want the black and white adjustment layer to partially apply to areas just not at full strength. So now what I can do is click on either one of those adjustments and go up to the opacity setting that the top of my layers panel. And I'm just gonna lower it. If I wrote down to 0% it means it's going to affect the image 0% of the way. But if you bring it up a little bit, I can now make it so I'm controlling how much is the black and white adjustment layer able to affect this area? So I'm gonna throw those two adjustment layers away that I just created and show you the ones that were already in here. So if we look at the first adjustment layer that was here, if I overlay the mask you noticed the area that doesn't have red in it is where there are trees, trees both in the left side of the photograph and trees you can see through a window in the building. And if I turned the eyeball on there, that is causing the black and white adjustment layer to apply 73% of the way to those areas. So they're almost black and white. How do I know it's 73% of the way? Ah, actually, it's 63% of the way because it's the opposite of whatever this number is. This is how much we're preventing that from showing up to removing 37% of the adjustment. The next one is this area, and that's where I want your eye to be drawn. So I want that to be the most colorful area in the photograph, and so that one, if I turn it on, is set to 100%. That means block 100% of the black and white adjustment. Then there's here, and I see on the building their system stars in those little lights that are above it. In that one is set to 77% because I just didn't want it to be quite as vivid as the areas where I wanted your eyes to go to. Then we have one that is, of the station itself in that is set to 53% so about half amount can apply to the station. So by stacking a bunch of empty adjustment layers adjustment layers that wouldn't change the look of the image at all. I can use the masks that are attached to them. And if I set the layers to knock out shallow, those masks are knocking a hole in this black and white adjustment layer, and I could isolate various areas within the photograph and then adjust the opacity of each one to control how much of the black and white adjustment layer is prevented from being applied in. So this is something that I do that it was a very advanced use of layers to give me much more versatility and in this case, have four separate masks that are controlling where that black and white adjustment layer applies to the image. The key to it is that when I go to the letters f x and choose blending options that this right over here is set to knock out shallow. So then that begs the question. What is knockout deep? Do knock out deep will knock through all layers that are contained below this layer that set to knock out deep until it hits a layer called background. And so, if I said this to knock out deep and I up the opacity to 100% said 53 right now there is not a layer in my document called background, and so it just knocks a hole all the way through the bottom of the document. If the bottom most layer within the document was a background, then it would have knocked through until it hit the background. And so that's an advanced feature in layers that I love using. But I showed you it's mainly knockout shallow because I'm usually trying to knock through things that are contained within a group. I'm guessing not everybody will use that one. But for those of you that do, I think it will be bring you to another level with what you can do
Class Materials
Ratings and Reviews
Noel Ice
I am an avid reader of photoshop books, and an avid watcher of photoshop tutorials. I have attended (internet) several hundred of presentations. In the course of this endeavor, I have found my own favorite photoshop websites and instructors. Creative Live is probably the bargain out there as well as among the top three internet course sites. I have to say with great enthusiasm that the best Photoshop instructor is Ben Willmore. There are many great ones, but truly, he is the best I have come across, and, as indicated above, I have watched literally 100s of tutorials on Photoshop. I have seen all of Ben's courses, I think, and among them, this one is the best by far, and that is saying a lot, because that makes this course the best course on Photoshop to be found anywhere. I am going back and watching it twice. Not only is it comprehensive, but Ben is so familiar with his subject that he is able to explain it like no other. This is crème de la crème of Photoshop classes. I have been wanting to write this review for some time because I have been so thoroughly impressed with everything about this class!
ford smith
Highly recommended if you want to take your Photoshop skills to the next level. Ben Willmore is clear, concise, and professional. He also has a good speaking voice that is not distracting but also keeps you engaged. Lastly, I would recommend that as you become more advanced, increasing the speed of the video (one of the options given on the menu)...especially if you've gone through the course once before and maybe want to watch it again. The double speed is very efficient as you become more advanced in Photoshop. Thanks for the help Ben!
a Creativelive Student
Wow. I cannot communicate the value of this course!! The true value in this course is how the instructor identifies workflows you'll need before you'll ever realize it, repeats important information without it becoming annoying, and explains the "why" behind the techniques so well that even if you forget the exact method, you can figure it out via the principles learned. Excellent value, excellent material, excellent instructor!!!